Ask Woody About Your Wheels

same there!!!!! have a cost for the excel set? what advantage would the 18 help?

the downside is you will lose optimal dirt/ trails riding characteristics....the upside is that it will be lower and do everything everywhere else better....

$400 gets you a superlaced super strong wheel ,,,havy duty ss spoke set,,2.5 x in silver excel on your hub....3/4'' closer to the ground

want:
satin black rim add $75,,or
shiny/candy apple /glossy rim add $100[gotta re-polish it after the clear get's stripped]

seal for tubeless=$99

does that help???
woody

circa $800-900 using your hubs add $900 for billet hubs or oem ones...

FYI,,,the 18'' is loved by all those that ride mainly in the dirt,,tis the big dirt tire selection and the fact that the wheels do hook up better in the dirt....

holler,,
woody

Sounds good to me. I'll take it in satin black, I believe that is the finish on the wheels now. I'd like the tubeless, but i think i'd better learn how to change tubed tires if I'm going to be doing any dirt riding. I'm assuming this size will give me the standard spread of DS tires?


Man, you must work 24/7! Let me know how you want me to ship the wheel and a time frame. It's a pleasure doing business with you already, and so far it's only been emails.

i work 365/12 and take a day off on leap year,,,

nawww,,i have mastered the fine art of multitasking,,,you'll know when i devote my energy to other tasks ,,and i also know how to shut the door and leave it all behind in the hands of my capable crew....

we prefer the wheels complete,,,then i get a sense of what's happened to it as well as get the specs/offsets correct...

turn around is usually days or a wek or two at most,,,stuff /orders come thru in random waves i noticed,,,

soon
woody

Leave the rotors and abs ring on? I'll contact you as soon as I get my hands on the bike and make arrangements for shipping.

Thanks, I'm already feeling more comfortable with the height of the bike. What tire size should I start looking for for the new front set up?

Peter X

you have a plethora of dual sport tires available in 110/80x19

you can unbolt the abs ring and disc and remount em when you get it back,,always have all the rotating parts on when balancing your tire!!!

FYI or we can do all that for you ,,,about a third of our customers want complete turn-key set-ups,,,ie just slip it in install axle,,,torque things down and ride away,,simple as that
w

I like that. I'll be in contact with you.

Take care,

X

hi Woody i wish u a happy new year, i was wondering what about if i am going to leave the 18 on my rear axle and just replace the front with a 19 one?

my motorcycle is a ktm adv 950? any suggestions?

thanks

some folks have done this and registered no complaints...
what happens technically when you ONLY drop the front an inch,,, well,,,you
1,,,theoretically/actually will decrease the steering head angle and consequently the trail of the bike in this case it will speed up the steering more radically than dropping both ends,,,
2,,,you'll still have the same increase in braking ability per input by virtue of the smaller diameter
3 ,,,you''l have a huge selection of dual sport tires at your disposal
4,,,you'll get a liitle closer to the ground,but not as much as doing both ends
5,ya won't get the optimal handling ,,, tire choices and getting even closer to the ground as ta would with a 150/70x17 rear tire

so doable BUT not optimal

holler
woody

Hey woody,

Possible to reuse my current front and rear F800GS hubs for the construction of the X-Laced Caponord type of Rims?

Thinking of saving some cash...

IMO, using the Caponord/BMW designed spoke tubeless setup is more lasting than the silicon sealing technique that you're doing... Is it?

you are not the only one thinking about saving some cash!!!

i'll look into it,,,,we were able to utilize the oem KTM LC-4/8 hubs on the first attempt at cross pollinating,,,i ended up re-designing the hub out of billet to beef up the critical areas that had added stresses placed upon them due to the X-lacing.

personally, i think the X-lacing technique is one of the best just from a technical perspective,,,that it allows you to run a genuine tubeless rim is a bonus.

of course one has to also factor in the cost/benefit ratio,,,,as well as one's anxiety tolerance...

when you think that it'll be $1700 to convert your wheels vs $198 to seal em both....:eek1
when i have customers and my old vintage race- bikes still being used / raced tube-less-ly on wheels i sealed 20+ years ago ,,,[the old way],,,well,,,,that says something...and when i have had zero leaks with my upgraded techniques,,well,, i'm on to something even better....

FYI,,practically all the failed sealing attempts can be traced to improperly cleaned surfaces and lack of proper cure time...attention to detail and patience are the pre-eminent virtues needed for sealing wheels.

while i'm at it,,,,,there is this mystique that tubeless is safer than tube-type wheels,,,,could have been in the older days because the rim profiles were designed to allow you to' break the bead' more easily,,,,times have changed ,,as cars kept going faster the virtues of not having a tube chaffing constantly brought on the notion of going tubeless,,,not wanting the disastrous results of a tube type blow-out the notion of the safety bead was born,,it let's ya ride a few seconds longer before the tire slips off.

well nowadays practically all rims come equipped with safety beads,,,and some of them are so big ala KTM 950/990 rear 4.25x18 Behr rims that you can ride a long way on a flat without the tire dismounting.....AND,,,the price tag ya pay for that comes in the form of the blood, sweat and tears you shed trying to get the tire off/breaking the bead

bottom line is everyone has their own pucker factor,,,and will do or not do the bidding of the lil voice in the back of your head....shedding some light on this subject could calm the chatter and let ya get on with peace of mind.

woody

PS,,i personally ride/race on all the technology i share with you,,,,when i know i did the very best with my mods etc then i go and ride with peace of mind...i know that there is a bell curve of possibilities from BWOE folks never having had a flat to the poor soul with a ton of flats ...i stack the odds in favor of ''what works'',,,and what gives me the best chance of weathering the oddball incidents of picking up a nail or whatever....

thanks for the sharing woody...

much appreciated...

still saving up funds... likely need to wait till march to confirm the deal with you... =(

Woody - I have an '09 450EXC that I have set up for lots of trail riding, but also was planning on using it for more dual-sporting/adventure riding, commuting, rallies, etc.

What do you think about the cush hub wheels - should I be looking at buying a cush hub setup for this bike? I would like to have a set of wheels with more 50/50 knobs on them and a cush hub rear for the dual-sport rides, and then swap back to my stock rims for the dirt, as the S12 knobs on my dirt wheels are painful on the road.

I use the Tubliss system on my stock rims and I think it's ok, but I don't really love it. I would be interested in a tubeless setup for the 450 if you think it's feasible for the dual-sport rims.

Looking forward to hearing from you!

dc

hi dc and all you thumper owners that sport solid hubs ....

the second you spend more time on hard-pack and asphalt the more damage you are inflicting on your entire drive-train,,,why??? because you are robbing it of the shock absorbing capacity that dirt yields....
Rx= a cush drive unit somewhere in the drive-train....rubber drive -belts,cush rubbers/springs in the clutch and or rear hub all help in minimizing the power hit of a big 4 stroke single ie any 450cc n bigger thumper for practical reference.

you are fortunate because the the rear ktm SM cush drive unit as well as the billet units available share the same node points with your current hub.

what's interesting is that all the 10-15% upticks in price from the oem suppliers as well as my rim , spoke and suppliers have evened the prices to within a few dollars ,,,so now you get to make the difficult choice: do i spend circa $500 for a complete oem cush drive assy or a trick billet one???Duhhhhh

regarding the tubeless scenario...Tubliss sez ''off-road use only,,,i'd heed their advice...sealing the rim for tubeless should only be performed on rims that sport a 'safety bead'',,your 2.15x18 does not qualify,,,hence by going from a 2.15x18 oem rim to a 2.5x18 excel that sports a safety-bead you can seal it yourself or we can perform that service for $99 with one year warranty.

getting a superlace done yields the highest durability ie the least chance you will ever need to re-true your wheels.

happy new year
woody

With that thought in mind, when I convert from a belt drive to a chain I will have a direct drive hub. This is on a xl1200 so what are my options? Or recomendations

Thanks Woody - could a front rim be sealed also, or not?

Any advantages/disadvantages to running the wider rear rim? Would tire choice be different/more limited, or no change from the normal 21/18 selection?

dc

sure a front rim can be sealed,,,we choose to stay on the safe side and recommend /seal only those rims that have a safety bead....there's only one rim out here that i know of in 2.15x21 and it's a Sun dimple-less rim which IMHO is too wide and too soft...what's the point of running tubeless if the first thing you hit bends the rim beyond the tires capacity to seal????

the wider rim allows more/larger tire choices check here for some guidelines..

http://woodyswheelworks.com/rim_and_tire.htm

happy new year!!!

woody

Can you quote or PM me (whatever your preference) a price on the following?

1) Billet cush hub + 2.50 Excel + superlace, sprocket carrier, rubbers, rear rotor, all ready to go?

2) Matching 21" front hub with superlace, rotor, etc.

Probably will stay with tubes if I can't do full tubeless front/rear. Don't want to run the Tubliss setup on the dual-sport rims as it's too much futzing around trying to check two pressures and adjust them constantly.

Thanks man! Will be asking another question soon about upgrading my 1971 slash-5 BMW wheels to sealed bearings, potentially wider rims (cafe project ), etc.

dc

woody