The 650 Dakar Thread

Even without any farkles, that's a steal.

I thought so. It needed tires and brakes. Both done now. I went with the annake3 s. Happy so far.

Yep I know about the CCM forks unfortunately I already invested in the Emig clamps so will be investing in a set of 950 Advenure or Adventure S wp 4860 mxma, forks if the things don't work out getting the 4014 Fusion then I will be getting a custom Nitron Shock made up.


Anyone got any experience working with Titanium tools how durable are they??? apart from the fact that they cost an absolute fortune$$$$$$$$

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007XU8E76?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

No worries, thought it was an odd post for you to make, looked a bit confusing though for others less familiar with WP

Just in case anybody needs any parts,
I got a good condition, red 2002 F650GS with 55k km and ABS that I am parting out,
some parts are already gone and I am keeping some for my own bike, primarily the engine.
Handlebars, the K&N, the mirrors, speedo, windshield and some other small parts are already sold.
Front left and center fairings are already spoken for.
I do also have a complete clutch available (may also be sold in parts) in case anybody needs one.


At least for the smaller parts I can offer pretty cheap, yet fast int'l shipping,
depending on where you live larger packages are still not that expensive, especially within the european union.


PM me if you need any parts, I need them gone :)



Here's a couple pics of the bike:

Pmd u

Toby, if the person who bought the dash has a faulty one I would like to get my hands on the faulty one or at least the circuit board from it

Did some woods trails today. The Dakar was happy as ever scraping along. It really likes dragging the center stand mounts.

I'll drop him an email, maybe he still has it.

Toby, appreciated, need to build up a few spare bits to repair other dash units, too many going in the rubbish bin

Out riding yesterday, and all of a sudden, no rear brakes. The brake pedal went all the way down with absolutely no braking. The brake fluid was still completely full. Headed home, and within ten miles my rear brake came completely back. Any ideas what would cause this? The only thing I could figure was a problem with the master cylinder.

Have had it happen, overheated brake fluid, took 10 mins or more while parked to recover, many laughs at my expense, we were being silly at the time

+1 Too much braking coming down a Ski Slope, got interesting near the end...

I would think it's overheated brake pads... But what do I know? In ctoldie's case, I think it could be the master cylinder since the pedal went down. On the other hand, when you get no response from the brakes, you do notice the pedal travel much more. Will be interesting to find out what really happened.

I took the old brake fluid to specialists and they looked at the braking system with me, the conclusion was too little fluid and obvious signs of fluid overheat, I changed the system with larger reservoir, single piece SS line and have not had it happen again. My pedal was a limp dick like his and recovered just as his did

Hmm... Interesting... I am surprised that kind of brake fluid is even certifiable as such. I can see how too little fluid can cause some air to get into the system but, if I understand you correctly, you are saying that an overheated brake fluid is compressible.

I am not saying you are wrong, I am just saying it doesn't make sense to me. Also, the source of the heat in the brakes is usually thought to be the friction between the pads and the rotor. The coefficient of friction is then reduced dramatically rendering the brakes ineffective. It usually means hard pedal and no braking.

I know you guys had a low pedal, but I can explain that away by the fact that a pedal on our bikes can be pushed quite far to begin with. We just never do it because we get the desired response from the rear brake early on in the pedal travel. If you get no response, you keep pushing harder and so on. Only then do you realize how far down the pedal goes.

Again, not saying you are wrong, just never heard of compressible brake fluid.

"I know you guys had a low pedal, but I can explain that away by the fact that a pedal on our bikes can be pushed quite far to begin with. We just never do it because we get the desired response from the rear brake early on in the pedal travel. If you get no response, you keep pushing harder and so on. Only then do you realize how far down the pedal goes".


My brake pedal actually hit against the footpeg bracket. There was no resistance, therefore I feel it was fluid related. It actually felt like there was no fluid in the system. I replaced the pads and brake fluid two months ago, but I feel it is not related to that, as I have put on 1500 miles without a problem.

Exactly what happened, shocked me at the time, thought I was going to have to ride out with no rear brake, many jokes about not needing a rear brake.

The brake specialists stated the discoloration of the fluid indicated an extreme over heat, it had been changed quite recently, took their advise, no more problems

I have to say we were being very silly and I was having a very bad day, was looking over a long drop at one point, they were nice corners though

Do you need a GS911 to bleed the lines on an ABS bike?

Interesting topic... brakes. Had a mountain of work done on my bike, prior to a recent 5 day trip, including new brake fluid. Last day while on the way home was coming in hot to a left turn, grabbed both brakes, but it was obvious the rear wasn't doing a thing. Odd thing is that prior to that attempted hard stop I'd been traveling on fairly straight highway with few turns that didn't require braking for quite awhile. So, I'm puzzled about how it could be an overheating isssue. Maybe I'd cooked the fluid earlier. Don't know. Since then I've toyed with few solutions...

• Larger fluid reservoir
• Steel braided line between the reservoir and the rear master (But, I think this is a waste cause I don't believe this line is under any pressure. Am I wrong?)
• A brake pad set other than OEM

I'm thinking Galfer Stintered Ceramic (http://www.galferusa.com/brake-pads-street-sport-racing-motorcycles/); although, I'm open to suggestions. I already have a steel braided line between the rear master and the caliper, so that ain't the problem.