when i first start my dt400 up in the morning it smokes enough to create a blue haze across the street lol it fires up in 2 to 3 kicks when cold and one when warm . it also fouls spark plugs every two weeks
Does your DT still inject oil or do you premix? So when you leave home, figure out how far a float bowl of gas will take you (warm it up, shut off the gas, ride til it runs out). Then every time on the way home, remember to shut off the gas at this place and run your carb out. This is my practice for my premix bikes. Hope it helps. Peace Piston
Smoke is normal , plug fouling is not. Is you airfilter clean? Check out the enrichener plungers sealing tip.
Do a leak down test. Yamaha strokers have an issue (not a bad thing IMHO) with holding a lot of oil in the crankcase. But with a bike that old and fouling plugs the crank seals are suspect. The transmission (right) side in your case. Does it use transmission lube?
nah no trans lube the dealer said to use 10 w 30 yamalube in the transmission leakdown test? how do i do that
I would also think the crank seals are at fault. They are 40 yrs old quite likely. Probably leaking on mag side as well as transcase side. Ethanol gas is especially hard on them.
My advice is to put all your DT400 stuff in one thread..you have the same questions bouncing around a few diferent threads you have started asking the same questions.
You should realize though that your 3 threads are likely related in some way. Look at all 3 and take the good advice they offer.
At the risk of actually answering a question.... All of the autolube bikes I have owned smoke a lot on startup if they have been sitting for a period. My worst is an Aprilia RS250, a v-twin road racer with it's front cylinder inclined at a steep angle. It smokes like a tire fire the first time I start it on a race weekend. I believe that even pump fed systems drool a bit of oil when parked, and this pooled oil is responsible for the smoking when the machine is restarted after sitting. Once warmed and "Cleared out" all of my autolube machines become much less smokey. I don't want to re-ignite the oils debate, as it has devolved into tiresome circular arguing, other than to say in my experience some of the synthetic mix oils seem to make less smoke when they burn. The start-up smoke is less due to the oil type than to excess oil collecting when the bike sits, so a change of oil is probably not going to have a large effect. Your plug fouling is not likely related to the smoke on startup, assuming the smoke level subsides once the engine is warmed and happy. The autolube pump on your DT is adjustable, however, and it's possible it may be over oiling. The adjustment is pretty rudimentary, if I recall, so it may well be worth checking. Sadly, I don't have a manual in front of me to quote from. Anyone else care to provide specifics? The plug fouling is more likely due to either an incorrect plug, mixture issue, or ignition timing issue.
OK ladies, out of the 31 posts in this thread, I had to move 19 down to Head Explody as they only revolved about asshattery, counter-asshattery and identification and rationalization of who's a troll and who isn't. As someone once said "civility is enforced in the on-topic forums". If you want to bang heads, there's a perfectly fine padded cell downstairs in Jo Momma. Or just tell us about your political leanings in CS&M! People love that crap down there and the mods there have a lot more patience than I do. Thanks for your time, Flood ADV mod-creature.
This post may of helped me I am having a flat spot on acceleration that I have not worked out. Bought a CT2 with blown crank seals replaced them and have not work out this flat spot. Its the one thing I have not checked. I may get back to you if you do not mind. Plug looks rich leaner jet no change, worse needle on middle grove. Up or down on needle no better Thanks
Typical weak ignition. Cylinder pressure spikes as the engine hit the powerband and the spark has a rough time coping.
If your bike has points, then it might be a good idea to change them and at the same time fit a new condenser. If bike has been standing for a long while, you may have a porous float, which will tend to mean fuel level is too high. Easy enough to check, as you simply need to switch off fuel, and see if bike runs normally momentarily before it cuts due to lack of fuel.
it does not use any oil out of the transmission or crank case i have rode it for awhile and checked and none is missing
