1190 Air Box 2013 VS 2014

Just finished installing the 2014 air box components on my 2013 R. Thought I'd share my experiences for further reference. No pictures though, was in a hurry.

Differences: the 2014 has an extra plastic wall at the front of the airbox which will supposedly make it withstand more to warping. I could not see any difference in the filter holder, but changed it anyway. The 2014 O-rings that seal the connection to the injection module are thicker.

Installing is a bit a PITA due to not having a lot of wiggling room.

- First: take off the tank (refer to the Nerb video here)
- Disconnect the connector of the temp sensor and take off the lid of the air box (8 screws) and disconnect the hose on the rear. The lid did not change and is reused.
- Remove the air filter element
- Remove the intake trumpets (2 screws with bushings each). Don't drop stuff into the intake ports.
- Pull the air box up and to the rear. Disconnect the snorkels
- Disconnect the following from under the air box: Sas valve, Sas hose and drain hose.
- Now carefully lift the box out of the bike. Take the O-rings off of your inlet ports.
- Install the filter holder, rubber sleeves where the snorkels connect and the o-rings on your new air box.
- Fit the air box in place, make sure the inlet ports are properly set in the grooves with o-rings of the airbox. Connect the sas valve, sas hose and drain hose to the bottom of the new air box.
- Reinstall the intake trumpets
- Reinstall the air filter. I greased it along the rubber edges to make them seal better.
- Reinstall the lid, don't forget to reconnect the hose on the rear and the connector for the air temp sensor.
- Reinstall the tank and fairing.
- Don't worry about the fuel level blinking on the display after reinstalling the tank. I thought I broke something, but after a few minutes, everything was normal again. It seems the fuel level sensor needs to calibrate for some time after disconnecting it or something.

I took a testride afterwards and everything was fine. I hope this update will make my airbox seal better.

Could you give us an idea of the parts total costs???

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23266493&postcount=14

thank you m8

I know, but I'm a bit reluctant to the UNI filters. I'm not sure I want an oiled filter in there, as they only function when properly oiled, which would imply opening the air box up on a very regular base.
Also, I can't get an answer from UNI whether or not the mapping needs to be adjusted for having more/less air flow. I think they don't want to be responsible when something would go wrong. I will stick with the paper KTM filter (which also worked flawlessly in my 990 for years) for now. I am however contemplating on getting a UNI set and only installing the part that seals the gap between air box and cover.

I bought the UNI Filter kit, but I used only the "Perimetrical" foam gasket

If you don't ride in the dust all of the time, why would you install them? The 201 airbox is perfect and the unifilter reduce the power and increase fuel consumption.

So thanks but no thanks.

Where can I find proof for this statement ?

Where can I find proof for this statement ?

I read that dust still passes the 2014 airbox. So from my point of view its not 'perfect', never mind your references.

I have read Filtermans posts re the 1190 filters and have them myself. So no need to sell them to me. And yes, only a Dyno at identical conditions could show a measurable difference if there is any. Everything else is guestimating. 1% is nothing, probably even within a dyno tolerance.


Sent back and forth

I have no need for that proof. They have to work together flawlessly. Until that's the case, the Uni is my choice of filter.


Sent back and forth

On some early 1190 threads there was talk of water getting into the air box soaking the paper filter. Not sure if it was ever tested or proved but I would have thought the Unifilter ( triple filter kit) would reduce the chances of the engine ingesting water.

Any thoughts or experience ?

dont think the filter material would play a significant role in water ingestion, other than a paper filter will fall apart and a foam one wont. If you get into deep enough water you are getting your airfilter wet, then the engine is going to be drinking it.

When I took my 2014 apart I saw a water drain in the duct before the filter. So unless you submerse it past the entrance to the airbox, water should drain before it gets sucked into the filter.

There is a graph of this on here somewhere. I think in the "adventure problems" topic. The unifilter set you back about 20hp. One of the reply's was from Schussboelie. Maybee you find it faster that way.

Nevertheless, the more you filter, the less air can enter, the less mixture can enter the engine, the less power you have. It's just how fysics work.

I just fitted the Unifilter and there is no way you lose 20hp....thats a massive loss and would be easily noticable when riding the bike, so I call bullshit on that theory

My seat of the pants dyno reckons if anything you gain a pony or two, but that could just be in my head.

Also, you are completely wrong in your statement about the more you filter... etc. You are thinking purely of blocking air intake, not filtering efficiency. A dense paper filter will reduce air intake, reducing power. A less dense, but more effecient filtering medium such as an oiled foam filter will allow more air to pass through, while maintaining the filtering ability of the paper filter (or close to it) increasing power. Physics....its not that straight forward

+1

Dyno dyno dyno!

Proof us wrong.
I know, 20hp does sound like a lot. I agree with that! But i do believe you will lose some power.

So having a 2013 "Euro" spec bike I have been keeping an eye on these threads and on my airbox. In 3000+ miles, some of that in the Arizona desert, I will tell you first hand, they need to be sealed up! It looked like someone dumped a tablespoon of baby powder in my airbox the first time we serviced it. At that time we took some steps to seal up the box but at the next service it made only a marginal difference. I have been told by KTM that the filter holder and the lower box has a different part number as well for 2014. This last go around I learned that the "Uni Filter" in Australia is in no way related to the US Uni Filter so that route was a dead end...so we just made our own version of that kit. So far so good, no difference in horsepower and sealed up now!

I had great success in ordering a pre-filter directly from Unifilter in AU for my 800XC. Now that the Tiger has been replaced by a 1190, Myles (Unifilter development guy) has been very responsive to inquiries.

Someone posted the 2014 updated air box part numbers here somewhere.


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