640 brake and fan switch

I don't have any manual I can read, all the manuals I have found online are in some other language. Everything I have done with the bike I have learn here or improvised myself. To be honest I think I have over cooked some of my own improvisation although everything seems to be coming together very nicely now.

I think I have lightened the electrical load a great deal being I don't have one incandescent lamp left on the bike now. Everything is LED and will run on 9 to 30 volts except my rear signals I think. The headlight is HID and has it's own power source straight from the battery and independent switching I ran and installed the switch for.

When I got the bike that was the first thing that went was the electrical. First the battery blew up like a balloon in the battery case, had to fight it out. Then I just replaced the battery and smoked that one too. Then a battery and rectifier regulator. Then the pulser coil, then the CDI and the electrical has been stable since.

I just got a little AR pressure washer and did my first pressure washing of the bike is why my question came up. It makes it way too easy! I did the top of the triple and might have got the key switch but I was trying to be careful of all electrical and seals. It's only 1500 or 1600 psi., no paint or decal stripper.

I've been into my carb a lot lately myself. I'm sticking with the BST though. Last time out even though it was pretty rich low rpm second gear wheelies were just a throttle twist away. Just this morning (while warming up the truck) I snuck in the top of the carb for a quick needle clip move. Next I'm going in through the bowl drain to change the 162.5 out to a 160 MJ.

Okay I'll quit blabin now, back to TT's scheduled programming again.

When I replaced my ignition switch it was keyed different then the gas cap and I thought no big deal I 'll have a lock smith re-key the cap for me. I brought the gas cap to three lock smiths and they all said no. Before installing the ignition switch I should of had it re-keyed to match the cap.

I'm sorry to tell you but those persons you spoke to posing as lock smiths were not real lock smiths as the trade name applies. Any real lock smith should have abilities far beyond the folks you spoke to.

i bet i could almost take it to lowes and get the tumblers i needed. any real locksmith can do this with their eyes closed.

laramie

Someday I'm going to ask a small town lock smith to re-key the gas cap for me, it's probably a 5 minute or less job.

Resurrecting old thread. Marquardt (USA) told me that the part with the plastic retaining pins on the side necessary to fit the KTM was a proprietary part (for Brembo I guess) and they couldn't sell it. I never got as far as discussing minimum order quantity. If anyone knows to the contrary it would be good info.

Cheaper alternative is the Brembo part# 110.4418.21 .... price is all over the board but currently $17.38 from yoyodyne though the shipping is expensive. It uses the correct Marquardt switch (click for pic). Believe the wires are shorter than the KTM version but may be long enough, else splice. Sumitomo .110 wiring harness connector available here and here.


Most of this info comes from thread at ktmtalk which mentions even cheaper Radio Shack 275-017. I thought the holes were the same spacing as the plastic pins on the Marquardt but they are not so I only used the thru-hole and a screw. Was hoping to use a shortened screw on the top hole to prevent rotation but ended up with a blob of epoxy. Cut off the wheel. Works fine, we'll see how durable it is

Cool stuff! I hope I never have to replace mine again but please do report back in a few thousand miles