Need suggestions for a local welder - beef up my aluminum subframe

....prefer south side of Denver...looking for a welder with experience strengthening aluminum subframes. Will need someone to add some gussets on the subframe of my 2008 Husqvarna TE610. Also strengthen the battery tray and weld a metal plate to the fender support.

I sent PMs to the two that popped up when I searched, but havent yet gotten a response yet.

Thanks for any referrals!!! If you have any idea on a price range, that would also be appreciated!!

I've got a guy in Lakewood that should be able to help...PM me and I'll shoot you his number.

+1 for Jim... works out of his garage and does great work. He's patched up a few sled parts and the subframe on my bike and they've all held up great.

Just thought I'd share a good resource thats local.

Got my subframe back today for my Husky. Was real pleased with the guy that did it. They're BBFrabrication out of Denver area. Very, very reasonably priced (had a few other estimates), quick turnaround, experienced with subframes and did good work. Those not local can ship them and they will handle. I plan to carry a Rotopax of fuel and some tools and occasional gear on the back, so beefing it up was necessary, based on the breakage I've seen out there. Well worth the money and piece of mind. Had gussets added to rear section, beefed up the fender mount and welded around the battery tray.

Fender mount - he welded in some angle pieces:




Rear section with gussets added:

Not really a question for this forum, but is salient to this thread.

Why not brazing for this? Braze joints can be nearly as strong as the best welds, and can be gentler to electrics because you aren't using electricity. Thoughts? I'm just curious hear, not proselytizing/sharpshooting.

X2 on BBF

http://www.bbfabrication.info/

He is off of C-470 around Kipling if I remember. Works out of his garage

Does nice work at a nice price


Screen name is Mommyslittlemonster here on the site

At least as far as steel is concerned, brazing introduces far more heat to the metal than welding does.

No, no they aren't.

Braze bonds to the outside of the metal, welding fuses the metal. When stressed, brazed joints break at the braze. When stressed, a piece with a good weld will break somewhere other than the weld. If it breaks at the weld, it's a poor weld.

I broke several front axles in my race truck (class 1700) because the trusses were brazed to the cast iron centersection. Once I learned to use NiRod and preheat/postheat the cast iron, I was able to jump higher and land harder without breaking it.

Whenever welding, ALWAYS disconnect the battery or use an appropriate battery protector (don't know what that is? Then disco the battery!).

TIG is the fastest way to fry an ECU. MIG/Arc are not far behind.