Thats what I was thinking when I put it back in. I also noticed the rubber seal was twisted up. I may pull it back out and seal it with some grease. Later after I had it all buttoned up I was wondering if you could just trim that corner out for good clearance and not use that bolt? Not sure if it would seal enough. Just thinkin.....
YOu must use the bolt--------it's what pulls the door up and compresses the door gasket----did you see that gasket in the door ??? You don't want air going by it----it would be unfiltered. BigDog
I didn't really look that close....just sort of shook my head. Guess it's something that we'll have to live with.
Hhhmmm...I guess I'll have to make a video of my air filter removal & reinstall so you may compare. It just wasn't that hard when I learned the combination. Maybe that's the secret. I do agree it should have been designed completely Stupid-Proof. My windshield did a terrific job of cutting the cold wind off my chest and face. But I had the same drumming noise on top of my head which I had when it was on the KLR. So, could just be the shape of this shield. I'm going to try a rubber lip along the top edge....when I find something suitable to use for that. Also, thinking about trimming the bottom center further open to let more air under the fairing to come up the inside. Then, make an extension of sorts (ala BigDog trashcan mod #1) to create an acceleration tunnel effect up the inside of the shield to break up that turbulence coming over the top. That's how my Desierto 3 fairing works (phenomenally well) on my Beemer. I'll keep tweaking till I nail it. HF
I ended up trimming some of the extra plastic on the cover. That helped. The problem was right in the corner where the outer wire sheathing and the corner of the cover met. Trimming the plastic got it above the wiring. Good for now....
Getting it in an out is do-able------------------not as easy at is should be------somebody in design let that one slide thru and thought it would be OK-------or screwed up and didn't want to admit what they done.. But---------that's not my big concern---------I still think that filter can get pushed out of place while installing-----the tight fit aggravating this. Thing is------if it does you'll never know it until your engine starts smoking and using oil----you can't see in there. I witnessed a KLR motor that went from as good as new to trash in 80 miles of severe dust. He cleaned his air filter and didn't have any oil to re-oil it and put it in dry. Not just because it was a KLR---any motor can't put up with that. I'll never like this. BigDog
Also....interesting about your "no bar vibes" with the Cycra attachment. That probably does the trick. Good to know. My temporary setup had open ends without bar weights. Even though I was feeling some vibes, I will clarify they were about the smallest amount ever incurred by me on any bike other than my Goldwing. For my Terra, the original stock setup revealed no discernible vibes of any significance. I remember well my first ride impressions.....in order: 1) The smoooooooth strong power of the motor 2) The lack of vibrations 3) The stable effortless handling in motion It's so much fun to ride this way, I'll strive to maintain these attributes. I must make a confession (which I didn't see coming): I've fallen in love with this dual stock exhaust. I seriously doubt I will ever change it, if the twin sisters keep performing as is. You may have to ride one for a while to understand my comment. But I'm quirky + stupid....everyone won't be like me. I just chuckle at all the discussions I see about "changing the exhaust to one-sided" as a top ranking priority. I can only assume that's coming from people who've not spent any serious seat time on a Terra. I had similar thoughts in several ways, once upon a time, not so very long ago. The thing is.....the more I ride the Terra, the less it seems to need. It's just a happy ride, what more can I say. Similar to my Husaberg.....just "Gas & Go". I'm digging it more every day! HF
I assume that the one sided exhaust people are looking at doing it to save weight and/or gain space for things like tool containers or extra fuel storage.
I've a few stupid questions; What are your bikes idling at? Is there an adjustment, or no. Is 1500rpm too high? I rode both the Strada, and the Terra. The Strada seemed less 'buzzy', and the abs is nice.
The Strada lack of buzziness may be the tire differences. The bikes ECU controls the idle speed, it's supposed to be 1550 RPM. There is no manual adjustment.
My stupid question is: where is the chain guide? Ahh, there isn't one! Gonna fix that! The BRP Moto guide for the 610 is perfect for the Terra, except it's left hand drive. I called BRP and they have the same thing in right hand drive, for the Husky two strokes. It's ordered, and I will fab some brackets for it the first part of next month. I don't know if I will weld it onto the swing arm, or if there is space to make up a bolt-on bracket. The nice thing is that the back of the swing arm is flat, and the bracket can just sit right there and align the chain guide perfectly, or at least it looks that way when I made a dry fit with a 610 guide. I'll post the results when they are available. I think this bike needs the guide, especially if any dirty work or long miles are in the cards.
The happy bike is broke.... Found this while washing the mud off after todays ride.I can only assume the light and fender have been vibrating until this happened.As far as I know its never been dropped or hit,however....over half of its 1400 miles have been on rough rocky roads. Wonder if its covered under warranty... I don't really care,I'm in love with this bike.if they don't take care of it I'll figure out whats going on and either repair or replace it......
BigT, that is some good information to have! I am about to start some mods on my Terra and it looks like something needs to be done with the rear fender if rough roads are on the agenda. I am taking mine to Death Valley soon, and there are a million miles of rough washboard out there. Looking at the fender, it sticks way out, and is, as you mention, pretty wiggely. Some extra support can be added, although I don't see a really slick way to do it without taking some of the plastic underneath off to look. Maybe some suspenders off of the tail rack would help, even if they may look like an add-on. One way or another, I will provide some support to try to prevent what happened to your bike.
I saw a rear fender problem coming not long after owning the bike. The rear fender and license plate are really hanging down and flopped around a lot on rough terrain. Kind of seems it might break off eventually. So I completely removed this metal bracket which is much heavier than it looks. It was acting like a huge weight at the bottom of a pendulum. I just drilled some holes above the old mounting as high as I could and fastened with wire ties. They will hold till the cows come home--according to my dad---that's a very long time. I've been using wire ties to mount license plates on my extreme offroad bikes for years----never had one come off.
http://www.rg-racing.com/browseBike/Husqvarna/TR650_Strada/2012/LP0129BK.aspx Found this recently. They have many US didistributors.
B&B are making a bash plate now. http://www.bboffroad.com.au/new_page_1.htm I've now got bark busters but kept the weights. and :huh