Installing swing arm on r1200 GSA

I seem to recall a thread on swing arm instaltion, but I've searched and have not located the exact info I'm looking for. After a nasty drive shaft explosion last Oct I'm nearly ready to bolt the beast back together. It seems there was someone that modified the socket needed to torque the left side bolt in such a fashion that also allows the installer to use an Allen wrench at the same time. The idea was to keep the Allen torque stable as you torqued the nut. Does anyone have any info on the modification of the socket needed for the job? Also, what are the torque specs for the left side swingarm bolt and Allen?

I think this is it...about halfway down the page in the Hall of wisdom..

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Paraleler tool.html

Excellent! That's it. Thanks

I don't think this tool applies to the '08 model though.

Good point... Any reason why? Is it not a concern when torquing the bolt and Allen ?

Because there is no allen pivot bolt & lock nut on 1200, that applies to R1100 & R1150's.

Items 7 and 8, parts fiche for 08-09 R1200GSA.
They call it a "pivot pin" but I'd say it qualifies as pivot bolt.

And to the OP, I used an alternate method on installing the left side pivot pin that didn't require any special tools.

I applied medium Loctite on the pin and turned it to the specified torque (7Nm?).
Next let the Loctite cure, marked the pin and the frame with white dots to verify if the pin moves.
Then torqued the lock nut to its specified torque (lotofNm) using a normal unmodified socket.
At the end check the marks on the pin to make sure it didn't turn with the nut. It didn't.

--
Mikko

Perfect! Great idea and method. I liked the idea of a custom socket to tighten the bolt and not at the same time tighten the Allen bolt. Your option seems like a good common sense method. Thanks,

I told you to make a socket?

I'm curious what med lock tight is. I have used blue and red before.... What would you recommend?

Captdan,

Did you get the shaft back from Greenbay? If so, how does it look? What did they do?

Medium is often referred to as Blue Loctite.

Jim

Thanks, didn't know that.


And yes, I got Greenbay to replace the ujoints. Mine exploded so I bought a used one on eBay and sent it to MSI. The drive shaft looks new and a very fast turn around time! Mitch knows his business. Now if I can just get it back together and not have another explosion I'll be happy

Is this the tool? Saw this on Ebay Swinging Arm Bearing Tool BMW R1200GS GT CT About $23 with shipping from GB.




HoW tool

This is good info. I have to change the rubber seal, # 11 in the pic above, on a friend's r1200gsa.

Whenever I have to do such a job, I tighten the adjustable pin to whatever is needed (8Nm in case you use bearings, handfeel for bushings ), then mark the pin using a black marker and then tighten the locknut to the needed torque. Then I check the pin for movement. It never moves, the mark is in the same position, every time :)

Dan.

Is it necessary to pull the Paralever at the pivot point to change the front accordion boot? Maybe by just sliding the driveshaft u-joint splined adapter rearward off of the gearbox output shaft (which you'll have to do anyhow) you'll have enough room to remove the old boot and slip the new one into place.

would love to hear an answer to this.. I should replace my boot as well.. the one farthest back #11, I have been avoiding it because I am unsure of the tear down necessary to do it... so I just ignore it.. seems like a good plan :huh

I couldn't replace the #11 boot on my 2005 with the swingarm on place, shock and driveshaft removed. Had to remove the swingarm. JVB was trying to help me with suggestions but I couldn't get anything to work without removing the swingarm.

--Kevin

I have an 06 Adv.

I have replaced the booth without removing the swing arm.

It is tight and a pain and your fingers will hurt. Hint you can use standard zip ties (the BMW versions are narrower to fit in the grooves) but you have to gently file down the two sides of the locking portion.

You do have to slide the drive shaft back though - which means dropping the FD down.

But much more simple than pulling the swing arm.

Dean

Dean, do you have the 1150, or 1200?

Jim