Tubeless spoke wheels for F800GS

Hi

Is there any inmates using tubeless spoke wheels on F800GS?

What make is the wheels?

Any significant advantage tube vs tubeless vice versa?

Do U have pics of it?

Thanks & regards
sbw

Hi.
I personally have not gone down that road. But here is a thread which talks about it somewhat.
I'd much prefer a 1200GS-like design rather than just sealed nipples. But it's a start.

Ride safe...

You could sent your wheels to Woody and have him lace a set of HP2 rims to them.

Woody has laced a Exel Takasago rim to an 800 hub for me and made it tubeless.

Is there a Paul Harvey moment here T...does Woody do this for the F8?

He can do anything when it comes to wheels. The HP2 rims are the only 21"/17" combo I know of that that are cross spoked which is the best way to go tubeless with a spoked wheel.

The question though is, will they work with the 800 hubs. I've been wanting to go to the cross spoke wheels too for the tublessnessbessmess I hadn't considered the HP2 rims. I figured perhaps a rim from an older airhead GS for the front 21" and a newer oil/hexhead rear 17" rim might work, but the big question on getting the spokes and hubs to match is the uncertainty.

I don't see any reason whatever why the HP2 rims would not lace right up. What are you worried about - the spokes clearing the rotors or perhaps the rear sprocket?

More like the number of spokes, the angle of the holes in the hub, the correct style and length of spoke being available and the issues you mentioned.

Deffinitly a bit of research needed, plus someone who is skilled at such work, which I am deffinitly not. :huh

Few people have the skill to work with cross spoked wheels - me included. I believe all the wheels in question have 40 spokes. I will double check this weekend since I have both bikes in the same place where I am headed. I would be less concerned about the other issues since they can be overcome. Hey, I did not say it would be cheap, just an option which should be checked out. Personally, I prefer the tubed tires off road for a number of reasons. The biggest one being the ability to air down to lower pressures than tubeless.

Really? What, 5psi? At pressures low enough to worry about tubed tyres unseating, you have to worry instead about tubes getting pinched (for exactly the same reasons).

This is neutral ground for the two types of tyre, IMHO. In 2010, the advantage of tubes over tubeless is one, and one only - lower manufacturing costs.

I can plug a tubeless tire and be back on the road in minutes. I think that's a huge advantage over tube tires.

Plugs rarely hold and are not a good permanent fix... A new tube can be done quickly too and is a good permanent fix.

They have held for thousands of miles, in my experience.

I really don't think putting a new tube in "can be done quickly". Although I agree that it's permanent fix, what a hassle.

I've changed quite a few tubed tire flats, and it's never been quick. Maybe that's because I dislike it so much and build a huge wall between myself and the task and spend so much time dreading it that by the time I'm ready to tackle the challenge it's become so enormous and daunting that every single thing that I've obsessed about possibly going wrong does.

I'd take tubeless anytime. And carry a spare tube, of course

It isn't ever fast for me either. My new trick when a somewhat major problem occurs is to just resign myself to losing an hour. I take off all my gear. Have a little snack or some water. I carry a little 4x4' piece of tarp I lay out so I'm not working in the dirt. Maybe find a shady spot and drag the bike over to it. Then I pull out the tools. I also try to remember what tool or device would have made my little problem easier to solve and add it to my kit for next time. Things go much smoother when you don't feel a big rush to get going.

Except that, in 2010, there is no tubeless spoke/rim configuration that is as strong, durable, reliable, or repairable (and, I think, light) as the 'classic' configuration with tubes.

I look forward to the day when that is not the case.

Not at all. With tubes I routinely run down to 18PSI or less on the F8. I would be reluctant to go below 25PSI with tubeless (HP2 and 12GS).

This thread has taken a bit of turn and I will add to it. With any skill at all and the proper tools you should be able to change a tube in less than 30 minutes. I can do it in less than 15 minutes front or rear on the F8. By far the most time consuming task is breaking the beads. Once that is done it is pretty trivial.

FWIW, HP2 rims are NOT compatible with F800 hubs.