I would love to take credit, but that comes from another inmate. I am just an installer. Fortunately BMW now installs a colar from the factory. Jim
Jim thank you again for taking the time to document the fix. I just completed my repair in about an hour and i am looking forward to having my bike back.
Really a great pictorial instruction set, thanks for taking the time to make and share this stuff. Is it correct to say that your bike is an early model 2005 that required the ADV kit with two 90 degree QD's? Mine was built in Nov 04 I'll have to check under the fairings. I do hate it though when I run across a pricey upgrade that you almost can't live without, but at the same time it isn't anything that I can see or admire when the work is done.
Thanks, You will definitely have the two 90 degree male QDs. That said, you can opt just to put the clamps on, and keep the old plastic QDs. You will almost certainly have cracks, and will some day develop a leak because of them. The 05-06 models are at higher risk because the tank needs to come off to do the brake flush. Jim
I see little sense in trying to save a buck here, the flange could leak without the new clamping collars fitted but a broken QD turns me into an instant pedestrian.
I know search is my friend, but I can't figure out how to input a search term that doesn't return just shy of a zillion posts. So, having no time to read for 78 hours straight, I'll just ask the question. What years and models does the cracking - and this repair - apply to? Thanks!
Another thanks for this thread. Clamps and new metal quick connects fitted yesterday. What would we do without ADVRider and the great community here.
The QD on my 2007 GSA spontaneously split in the middle of the desert. I strongly suggest replacing the original ones as a matter of course. Cheap and easy fix that will save your butt sometime in the future. The seat/flange on mine was cracked even worse than the pics by Jim but still no leaks or petrol smell.
I ordered the kit and two flange clamps and got around to replacing the QD's last week, the stock tank and pump flanges looked good still no visible cracks, one of the stock plastic male QD fittings fell apart though when I disconnected it, the guts, spring and everything, the OEM plastic fittings appear to be a major Achilles heel, I've owned the bike since new and have around 100K miles on it and had heard about people becoming stranded but never got serious about remedying the problem until running across this thread, membership has its privileges. Jim was correct in that my 2005 takes the 90 degree QD's on both sides.
So what am I doing wrong? The day after installing the flange clamp and metal quick disconnect kit, I went out for a spin. Upon returning there was the usual waft of petrol. I checked out the newly fitted items to see a pool of petrol had collected in the small well. At least 5-6 tablespoons worth of fuel. Holy S**T was my first, second, and third thoughts. Yesterday I remove the quick disconnect kit again, not so much sealant as I remember putting in around the threads. My thinking is that I left some old residue sealant that cleaned the thread as it went in maybe. So I did a really thorough job again, getting it very clean, double checking. Definitely put plenty of sealant this time, winding it in and out to check coverage. Finally happy gently applying final pressure. Today I look and it seems petrol is again seeping out, without even having ridden the bike again. You can see the slight yellow dis-colour highlighted, it goes half way round the flange. I am pretty sure it will leak petrol out again. The sealant does not seem anywhere near setting. It seemed very liquified coming out the little packet. It is also very hot here at the moment (mid 90s fahrenheit, mid 30 celcius). Not sure if that would be effecting this fix. Any ideas? I am running out of the sealant!!
Hey JC, First, did you thoroughly clean out all gas from the threaded hole in the flange and clean the threads with carb cleaner or the like? This is important. Then you need to coat the threads with the sealant and allow it to become tacky before threading the fitting into the flange. After that let it set up for 24 hours before exposing it to gas or running the bike. The other thing to check is if you actually have cracks running down into the threads on the flange. If so you may need to use a heavier duty sealant. Either Permatex 56521 or even JB weld. If you run out of the sealnt we provided the Permatex is a good alternative. Hope this helps, Mike
I had the same problem when I installed the quick connects....They wouldn't seal no matter how long I let it dry or how clean it was. I resorted to using Yamabond as thread sealer and it has been fine for over 2 years and 30k miles. Joe
Likely, as Mike said, you and the OP had deeper cracks than normal, which prevents sealing. Mine were pretty deep, and as you can see, not an issue. Jim
OK, I've been busy the last two months, but now time to address this issue. I was planning to ask Jim about cleaning the threads when I came across The Other JC's post about his problems. That is just the kind of thing that I'd expect to happen to me (inexperienced klutz that I am ...). Anyway .... Jim, Mike, et al, So what liquid do you clean the threads with? Does it dissolve the sealant? Is acetone a good or bad choice? How do you apply it? Would an old toothbrush work? And what happens if 'particles' of the old sealant fall in/down the hole? Should the threads be dry before inserting the QD? What's a 'tacky' test? and about how long does it take to get tacky? Then after all is installed, wait 24 hours before turning it over? thanks, -ceej
Thankyou for the advice Gentlemen I cleaned the thread with a toothbrush dipped in petrol, it did a great job removing the old sealant and cleaning the thread. Then worked round a rag inside to dry the thread. Maybe the fuel remained in a crack and is causing the issue. I seem to have over-estimated the sealing ability of the sealant, which, I shall reiterate, never got to a tacky state. In the heat I was working in I would have thought it would get to a tacky state far quicker than on a cooler day. I am very nervous using a more solid solution for filling the gaps, just my luck (at the moment!!) a lump will fall off into the fuel hole at the bottom when I apply the goo and screw in the quick release. I shall have to clean it all out again and see if there is bigger crack than I have seen so far causing the issue, then select one of the mentioned sealers to sort it out. Things never seem to go to plan. What with my stretched petrol tank, it seems the BMW god is against me at the moment. I await with interest the answers to 1200gsceej's questions above. <br><br>
Guys, I'd suggest cleaning the threads with something other than gas, maybe carb cleaner or something similar. Should clean up easily. A tooth brush works. Sealant can be applied with your finger or maybe a Q-tip I guess. I would not be too worried about the old sealant getting anywhere, there is not much of it and it cleans off easily. Once you apply the sealant to the male and female threads (or just male threads really) let it set up for maybe an hour. It should get a little tacky. It won't "dry" or harden really, just congeals a little. Then hand tighten the fitting and follow that with maybe 1/4-1/2 a turn with a wrench. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN PLEASE! Hope this helps. We have had very few issues with guys installing these but sometimes stuff happens and the sealant does not work as it should. The Permatex sealant I suggested as an alternative is not permanent and seems to be a thicker consistency for those that havetouble with the Gasolia we supply. Mike
I'm planning on doing these mods to my bike soon. Can anyone tell me how much fuel I can have in an 07 GSA and change these out with out having to drain any fuel? For everyone that drained some fuel I'm guessing you will need to drain both sides prior to removal of the QD's.