Is this shift mechanism correct for a 9/81 build? The last two neutral switches put in the tranny don't work. They are 'push in to make contact' type switches. A loaner tranny that was recently in my bike operated the neutral light as it should. I don't give two hoots for a green light, but as I was in the tranny repairing things I thought it a good opportunity to fix the neutral light. My tranny was last worked on about 13 years ago for bearings and a 2nd hand 5th gear. I don't recall the shift mech being changed..... Thanks in advance for your help gents.
To my, albeit inexperienced eye....I would say that you have the "improved, later design" shift mechanism. This photo seems to show the DEEPER, MORE DISTINCT shift detents.....ie: the little "valleys" where the shift roller rides. It is said that this will improve occasional missed shifts and false neutrals.\ Hope that helps. spo
Thanks spo, here's another pic. I'm wondering if my shifter was changed 13 years ago for some reason. I haven't had a working neutral light for eons. As far as shifting is concerned, my tranny has always been very good.
if you don't want the green light, just plug the hole with a proper sized bold and crush washer. saves from fixing the inevitable leak!
The improved shift kit starts in mid '82. I can usually recognize it but your pictures have disappeared. It is deeper valleys on the shift cam, the peaks are more pointy. There are two neutral switches but this is was way before the change in shift mechanisms. To get the story on that go to Anton's pages and read; http://www.largiader.com/
Thanks disston, from what I can see on Anton's site, I have the older style shift mechanism with wider peaks. Anton's site also says that the change to upgraded shift mechanism was mid '81.........so I should have it. Puzzling, is that apparently from '76, the neutral switches extended to make contact. I'm sure my switch gets pushed in by the dohickey. But then it would make sense for the neutral light to come on in gear, if I have the wrong switch/dohickey in there. So, it's 2:30 am here and I can't sleep. Up to the shed I went and confirmed a suspicion that popped into my head. One wire was off the neutral switch. I re-connected the wire and sure enough, the neutral light comes on........in gear. The neutral switch (and the previously bought one) is correct for my bike. They are actually 'pop out' to make contact. Not the other way as I said in my first post. The neutral switch activating plate is incorrect. Parts were obviously changed in my tranny 13 years ago.:huh I recall having a pawl spring break back then so maybe the guy who fixed it found other things wrong and swapped the whole shift mechanism out. If that is the case, I can only say that he did a very good job because I've flogged the pants off that tranny ever since, and have only just overhauled it weeks ago.
Ditto, earlier. I've got a 78 and probably have the old style, cause I get false neutrals. Plan on going through it soon, I just need the shift cam. I've got the newer style pawl and small shift cam, but not one in question. Also, wouldn't hurt to upgrade the shift pawl. If the one spring breaks, you'll be stuck in whatever gear you are in. With the newer one you can still manually shift.
Gidday Nick, I didn't see your post. True that, old mechanism. Also add....a pre '76 neutral switch activating plate. :huh I guess the hunt is on now for the correct components so I can fix it. One day. PS. I've been looking after that beaut crank you sent me by exceeding 8 grand every so often.
The mystery continues. If indeed I should have the later mechanism in my bike, why did I get a broken pawl spring that left me stuck in fourth, 13 years ago, which led to me taking the tranny to the guy to be fixed. Well, at least now I know where things are at.
Max is right that is the original shift cam. years ago I upgraded that plate in my 81 R100RT. Here are all the upgrade pieces. Look at the steep ramps on the shift plate and compare them to what you have.
As far as I know if you want the updated shift kit you have to buy it from Motobins because anybody in the USA will charge you over $600. But ME is in Australia so that's no problem, right? But I think he doesn't care which shift kit he has, he just wants the green neutral light to work. If you have the correct switch for the shift kit you have then the problem may be that the switch needs to be shimmed to work. I've never had this problem but have heard others say this was the solution for their later style switches.
Do you have the correct crush washer under the neutral switch? The correct item is thicker than a conventional one.
I assume so bmwrench, it came with the switch. disston, I don't need/care for the light. It was just a matter of fixing something that was broken, except nothing is broken. I do remember when recently changing bearings etc, that the switch was pushed in when in neutral. It has a pre '76 part in there. My options are to leave the wire disconnected as has been the case for 13 years, or get a pre 76 switch. It is difficult to see in the posted pics but I looked at them and others that I took, and compared with the parts on Antons site. I do believe the part is wrong, hence the problem.
It looks like you have the earlier cam on the shift mechanism. The later one has a detent for the neutral switch button.
ME109, maybe the person who worked on your transmission 13 years ago decided he liked your late shift mechanism and swapped you?
That scenario has crossed my mind. The guy was/is a known racer/wrencher. I can only assume his rep is worth more than a quicker gear change.