The CRF250L Owners thread

I just hand the entire front end of my wife's CRF250L apart and I don't remember seeing a turn signal relay under there. The connections to disconnect the turn signals are there, but I don't remember a relay, but I wasn't looking for it either. My guess would be on the right side by the overflow bottle.

I also dismantled the whole head today and it's not there... Will see the right side cover tomorrow! Thanks Guys!!

So what other clutches will fit in the CRF250L? As others have pointed out, the CRF250L clutch may not be the best so would a CRF250R cluth fit?

The CRF250R is a completely differnt bike design to the CRF250L. The best bet is the CBR250R clutch, its a stronger clutch and it will fit. The added bonus is as there several race series for the CBR so theres plenty of aftermarket engine and transmission compoments that fit the CRF250L.

Hope this is useful info.

Hey guys so I finally picked up my first bike the cool little 250l. love it so far. I was planning on doing a couple of mods to just kinda make the bike mine. So far I did a fender eliminator kit to get rid of all that junk hanging of the back and I put on the fmf q4 slip on. I did no mods to the air box or the header. I haven't put a fuel programmer on is. So my question is has anyone one just put the slip on on with no programmer and did it run fine? And do you think my bike is running to lean or rich with just the slip on and no programmer. Sorry for all the questions but just one more. If I absolutely need a programmer are there any suggestions for a good one? I was more of a plug and play type. I don't want to have to hit a buch of buttons or anything. All feed back would be apreciated

I have an opinion on this....

If it isn't broke why try to fix it?

For the very few folks who are spending big bucks seriously modding their engine to produce much more HP than OEM, and are feeling slipping then sure, OK, I understand concern, par for the course taking the motor far beyond it's intended design, and probably why I wouldn't be doing every mod possible to squeeze every ounce of power of the non-race motor. Possibly making the LRP less reliable for our long distance ADVenture Riding, I hate hiking in MC boots. We all have different needs or passions when it comes to bikes so there's no right or wrong IMHO though.
For most folks, even those who do more common mods like just a Stage 1 kit or a fuel controller and/or exhaust why stress about it if there no proven issues? As far as I know we have the first CRF250L clutch replacement needed in our little community online, hardly a common issue yet.

We push our LRP on a weekly basis, beat on it even... I'm no master mechanic, we're spending more time riding instead of tinkering, but even with the Bazzaz fuel controller and power improvements I've never felt the clutch slip on big knarley hill climbs with the lever fully extended.
Our clutch failure was surely caused by operator error while a client was riding the bike, not because these clutches are weak IMHO.

Folks that want a slightly stronger engagement can replace the springs with stronger ones and get rid of the Judder Spring in the clutch assembly for not much cash or work. I have no experience as to if this will make a clutch last longer, just make the engagement stronger feeling or more abrupt.
With what I've done to ours it does feel slightly more definitive in engagement, but like I said I never felt the clutch slip either way with the lever released.

The EBC aftermarket pads part number is the same for CRF and CBR 250, so I'm not even sure how different the clutches actually are, but I'm no CBR expert, I just ride.

See this thread for a little Judder Spring discussion, something I discovered accidentally after replacing the LRP clutch and Ed pointed out the correct term for the springs I removed and a little internet searching.
Or do your own google search on judder springs, lots of various points of views on many forums, while the racers like the mod methinks some riders might want to consider leaving it alone for a while, especially less experienced riders who can benefit from what the judder spring actually does.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=859691&page=3



http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/935015-does-judder-spring-affect-clutch-engagement/


http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/864700-2011-judder-spring/

Hey guys so I finally picked up my first bike the cool little 250l. love it so far. I was planning on doing a couple of mods to just kinda make the bike mine. So far I did a fender eliminator kit to get rid of all that junk hanging of the back and I put on the fmf q4 slip on. I did no mods to the air box or the header. I haven't put a fuel programmer on is. So my question is has anyone one just put the slip on on with no programmer and did it run fine? And do you think my bike is running to lean or rich with just the slip on and no programmer. Sorry for all the questions but just one more. If I absolutely need a programmer are there any suggestions for a good one? I was more of a plug and play type. I don't want to have to hit a buch of buttons or anything. All feed back would be apreciated

Hi BigA
Any thing you do to the induction or exhaust will make the bike run leaner. As standard the bike will be at the best set up for economy and you can see that from the MPG they return.
You should be ok with the slip-on. for the best results as everyone has said on here you will need the header as well as the slip-on and fuel controller.
Only do the airbox mods, if you decide to do it once you have the fuel controller on the bike
Dont run it lean or your be in danager of damaging the valve seats and possibly the piston.
Depending on where you live there should be many options for the controller.

I hope this info helps you.

Steve

Hi BigA
Any thing you do to the induction or exhaust will make the bike run leaner. As standard the bike will be at the best set up for economy and you can see that from the MPG they return.
You should be ok with the slip-on. for the best results as everyone has said on here you will need the header as well as the slip-on and fuel controller.
Only do the airbox mods, if you decide to do it once you have the fuel controller on the bike
Dont run it lean or your be in danager of damaging the valve seats and possibly the piston.
Depending on where you live there should be many options for the controller.

I hope this info helps you.

Steve[/QUOTE]

Hey steve thanks alot for the info. So you think the. I should be fine with just a slip on and no programmer?

I had always figured that the ECU would adjust the fuel injection to compensate for the additional airflow, thereby preventing the lean condition that occurs in a carburated bike with similar mods.

I have been away from the forum for awhile. Ride my bike mostly off-road and just this weekend the bike stalled on me, twice. Once on a single track while decelerating getting ready to go around a corner and another time while decelerating. Once I dumped it, it would not start for a few minutes. I know the bike was pretty hot when it stalled and when it would not re-start.
I do have the megabomb, Fuel programmer and q4 can. Has about 500 miles on it.
Any definitive answer on the stalling? Maybe re-adjusting the programmer for on the idle setting to keep more fuel flowing at the lower rpm?
Thanks

I don't know about the stalling issues as we've not had that happen, but when we've dropped the bike (while very hot) it was necessary to turn the bike off then back on or it wouldn't start. Once I hear the fuel pump kick on it always starts right up, but without "resetting" the bike it will just turn over and over. I thought the tip over sensor has to get reset to kick the fuel pump back on.

How/when did it re-start?
Did you cycle the ignition key?





You did the stage one mod kit during break in? It hasn't had the first service yet then, how many miles without the mods did it have before you installed them?
Maybe that could have to do with your stalling, though I think Kiwi has had similar unresolved occasional stalling issues, but also before the 600 mile break in period was done I think. Not sure if a fuel controller could effect how the ECU "learns" on a new bike. Maybe someone with better understanding of the black arts of FI can comment.


Sorry to hear of your troubles, good luck getting it sorted.

Thanks for the warm welcome Lost Rider. To answer your question, no I'm not able to take the motorcycle saftey course at this time. It's only on weekends and I drive a charter bus. Weekends I'm always running. Currently im on my permit. I did get the rest of my gear, pants, jacket, gloves, boots and helmet. I ordered from Motor Cycle Super Store. Shipping was fast.

Kind of a newbie question I know but what's the best fuel to use in my CRF? I'm at 35 miles right now and I'm still using the fuel it came with. The dealer said I could use regular, mid grade or premium. I'm wondering what the best choice is.

Thanks again for the welcome.

Right where you said!! Thanks man! It was all done under 15 minutes! My flashers are no longer in rush!!

You're welcome!
Right on, I understand working on weekends.... gots to pay for the bike!

If you can ever swing taking a day off it's a good investment with your time and some insurance companies give discounts for completing the course, offsetting lost work time loot.


As for fuel, when riding solo or just filling the LRP we use regular, when we're fueling together and I'm on the berg' we put premium in it cause the high strung berg' has to have premium. I remember discussions about running premium gas in bikes that don't call for it and the consensus seemed to be it won't hurt it at all, but it also wont give it any gains and therefore is just costing more in gas for no reason. I'm sure there's many points of views on it, like oil, but I can't feel any difference between using regular or premium in the LRP.

I see you are from NJ, be careful! People are crazy around here!!! They do the MSF course at Millville motorsports park during the week and weekends! I found the first day ridiculously boring but the second day was good. You get a license at the end which was my main reason for taking it! They go over some really good techniques and such that I felt made it worth it.

Page 99 of the owners manual discusses restart after a tipover. Basically key off, stand it up, key on, restart. And...as lost rider says, don't bother to hit the key if you don't hear the fuel pump cycle on/off for fuel system prepressurization.

Good deal !!! and Happy to help

The MSF instructors realize many people work on weekends, and can only take the rider safety class during the week. Therefore, I'm confident classes will later be scheduled during the week, especially after the riding season arrives in New Jersey. I strongly encourage you to contact the nearest MSF office to learn about the weekday classes.

Spud

Ha, miles go by fast, don't really pay too much attention to how many miles I have, so ya it is up around 1000

The mods were all completed after break-in and first full service.

As far as the re-start. I did try and restart after the tip over, would not start, so I turned it off for a few seconds, turned on and started right up.
It always starts up right away after a stall. The stalls have happen as i cut the throttle. I am going to be more aware to see if there is a pattern that develops or if just random.
I guess if I just stay on the throttle, it will not be an issue.

The stalling pretty much just happened this last week end on one ride, so maybe it was just one of them things.
Anyway, if anyone has answers, love to hear them.