a little Nova Scotia tour

Day 1

MA to NB

After a lot of talk, but surprisingly little planning it was time to go see <st1:state><st1lace>Nova Scotia</st1lace></st1:state>. We had the tour book and a map, and of course the Garmin. The plan was to camp (because we&#8217;re cheap bastards) and not take the ferry (see above). Bikes all packed up and ready to go:
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We left Metro-West around <st1:time minute="0" hour="9">9:00</st1:time> or so in the morning, missing most of the morning rush. It was a pretty uneventful slab up through Mass, NH and into <st1:state><st1lace>Maine</st1lace></st1:state>. When we got as far as <st1:city><st1lace>Brunswick</st1lace></st1:city> we jumped onto route 1. Stopped in a nice place in Waldoboro and had lunch, and resumed our trip. Arrived at the new <st1lace><st1lacename>Penobscot</st1lacename><st1lacetype> Narrows </st1lacetype><st1lacetype>Bridge</st1lacetype></st1lace>:
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Have I mentioned Mercury loves bridges?
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Pretty cool bridge though, it has an observatory at the top of one of the towers. Also saw this plaque:


looks like the Brits had a few go their way for a while eh?

Anyway, back on the road, slogging towards the border. We got off route 1 around Bucksport and headed towards route 9. The border crossing was a breeze (the female Canadian border guard was stunning! Should have snapped her pic). We decide to press on a bit into <st1:state><st1lace>New Brunswick</st1lace></st1:state>, and follow signs for the Kiwannas Camp Ground at <st1lace>St. Andrews</st1lace>. The town of <st1:city><st1lace>St. Andrews</st1lace></st1:city> is pretty nice, sort of Victorian looking, grocery store, beer store&#8230;. What more do you need? We set up camp and break out the beers & cook up some burgers.<o></o>
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Merc had managed to bang up his leg stowing the XR away&#8230;so after a day on the bike it&#8217;s time to have a look:
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dumb shit :huh<o></o>
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end of day 1, about 370 miles in the book

Day Two
NB to NS

next morning with coffee made I get a &#8220;proper English breakfast treat&#8221; (according to Merc anyway&#8230;.) a &#8220;bacon butty&#8221; or at least that sounds like what he&#8217;s saying.<o></o>
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assembled
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so full of OJ, Starbucks coffee & bacon fat&#8230; it&#8217;s time to hit the road
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We stop in <st1:city><st1lace>St. John</st1lace></st1:city> to see the <st1lace><st1lacename>Reversing</st1lacename><st1lacetype> Falls
</st1lacetype></st1lace><o></o>
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(not much happening right now).<o></o>
Do a couple of glamour shots:
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and<o></o>
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and then hit the road<o></o>
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The Garmin has an interesting route planned for us, hugging the Fundy shore, versus going back towards the highway. We figure this&#8217;ll be hot shit, and we&#8217;re not in a big hurry so off we go.

Merc does his &#8220;no rain prayer&#8221; and it seems to be working
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after <st1lace>St. Martin</st1lace> we see the tide is out
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and loads of other cool sites<o></o>
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we get to a toll booth&#8230;. Hmm and I stop to talk to the girl. I explain we&#8217;re just &#8220;passing through&#8221; trying to avoid paying the toll and she says &#8220;oh, you&#8217;re following your <st1:stockticker>GPS</st1:stockticker>. You can&#8217;t go through.&#8221; I guess the road goes about 17km, then we&#8217;ll need to turn and come out (no bridge over the <st1lace>Salmon River</st1lace> is one possible reason). Mercury expresses his feeling towards Garmin & MapSource
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and we hit the road again
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stopping for gas in <st1:city><st1lace>Moncton</st1lace></st1:city>, we run into a nice guy on a KLR. He had a brand new <st1:stockticker>TKC</st1:stockticker> 80 strapped to the back, and was just back from <st1:state><st1lace>Newfoundland</st1lace></st1:state>. Said he reads ADV rider sometimes, so if you read this.. &#8220;nice meeting you&#8221;. We hit the trans-Canada for <st1:state><st1lace>Nova Scotia</st1lace></st1:state> and pull off onto route 6, the Sunrise Trail. Our plan was to try and make it as far as Pictou, but with the sun starting to set, it didn&#8217;t seem doable. We decided to look for the first camp sign we saw. We came into a small town called Pugwash, and stopped at the local grocery / NSLC. Nice guy gave us directions to the campsite about 7 miles out of town. We decided to head out there and get setup then figure out food and drinks afterwards.<o></o>
<o> </o>
The sign said &#8220;7 miles&#8221; and of course I didn&#8217;t check my odometer, so you know how it is, the sun is starting to set, you&#8217;re leading but not quite sure you didn&#8217;t miss a turn or a sign&#8230;. Doubt creeps in. So I stop and say &#8220;we must have gone more than 7 miles&#8221;. Merc says, well, we&#8217;ll go to that hill, then turn around&#8221;. We go to the hill, and there&#8217;s the campsite! Nicely done!<o></o>
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Ready to unpack
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the setup<o></o>
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we head into town, get some dinner & grab beers & Scooby snacks and get back in time for a really nice sunset
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so, after half a dozen beers or so, it starts to rain (they said it might) and we hit the tents.

end of day two, another 305 miles in the book.
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Noice trip laddie

Day three<o></o>
Pugwash to <st1lace>Cape Breton Island</st1lace><o></o>
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It pours all night….and into the morning. So, what do we think of riding in the rain? <o></o>
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We decide we’ll still ride the sunrise trail, we’re not in a hurry, it’s not raining all that hard, so off we go. Did I mention we had some beer left over from the previous night? No worries, we’ll stuff them between my tent and my sleeping bag… they should stay in there. About half way between Pictou and Cape St. George Merc pulls up and says “hey… you’ve dropped a beer”. I guess it rolled out like a 12 ounce depth charge and exploded in front of him… I thought it was funny <o></o>
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<st1lace>Cape</st1lace><st1lace>St.</st1lace> George in the rain? check the pruny finger <o></o>
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gotta just laugh<o></o>
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a long wet slog brings us across the Canso Causeway<o></o>
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and to <st1lace>Cape Breton Island</st1lace><o></o>
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we opt for a hotel tonight (as it’s still raining) and settle in to the Mariner’s <st1lace>Inn</st1lace>… $120 / night! Ouch! But wait.. there’s more! They have a nice pub, but oh no…. Merc sees Chinese Buffet next door “best in town” the sign says. Awful! But that’s OK, I shamed him into paying, we hit the NSLC, pick up some local NS wines (Jost Vineyards) and settle in to watch some TV with all our clothes and gear spread out to dry in the room.<o></o>
<o> </o>
End of day three<o></o>
Only 176 very soggy miles…. Seemed a lot longer<o></o>
<o> </o>

Hey this is great!

I tried to get out there last year but had to turn back due to mechanicals and heavy rain. (7" in three days - I gave up and barely made it home.)

I'm going to be going out there again this year for the week of Sept 18th.

Can you tell me where that awsome campsite near Pugwash is?
Do you have a GPS coirdinate for me?

Thanks in advance.
I'll be watching...
Q~

Gulf Shore Camping Park

but it says they close September 15th....
you might call them I guess

N45 52.562 W63 32.479

this is fantastic... I just got back from a nearly identical trip... i can tell because all your pics are the same as mine!!

Day four<o></o>
Port Hawkesbury to Meat Cove<o></o>
<o> </o>
We had originally thought we would get out to Meat Cove by the end of day three. The rain had put paid to that idea, and in the end it was just as well. Originally we had just thought to do the Cabot Trail, but now we had more time to explore, so we chose the Fleur-de-Lis trail to Louisbourg.<o></o>
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First things first…. I introduce Merc to a proper Canadian breakfast<o></o>
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and butter tarts (no pics of the first one.. he scarfed it down so fast!) <o></o>
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the roads are pretty much empty, nice hills and sweepers.. NO CARS!<o></o>
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Merc still shock testing that camera<o></o>
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Stopped near <st1lace><st1lacename>Gabarus</st1lacename><st1lacetype> Bay</st1lacetype></st1lace>, Fleur-de-Lis Trail.<o></o>
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We make it to the fortress at Louisbourg, but decide not to go in. Spotted this German tagged GS<o></o>
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I wonder if that’s “final drive gear oil” strapped to his right side pannier <o></o>
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He had this cool sticker too<o></o>
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We decide to not ride the Marconi Trail, and head instead for the Cabot Trail. To get there we cross the <st1lace><st1lacename>Seal</st1lacename><st1lacetype> Island </st1lacetype><st1lacetype>Bridge</st1lacetype></st1lace>.<o></o>
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Remember Merc & bridges?<o></o>
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We hammer up the Cabot Trail (didn’t take pictures as we were having way too much fun) and finally come to a stop on an over look after Cape Smokey (IIRC) and a guy from <st1:state><st1lace>Quebec</st1lace></st1:state> pulls up on a new FZ1. We go over and chat for a while, and just as we’re talking his helmet blows off his seat (never a good idea to leave a helmet there) and rolls towards the cliff. Merc dives for it, but misses (he’ll not be playing goal for England anytime soon) and it rolls under the guardrail Luckily the Quebecer was quick enough to retrieve it before it went all the way down! Couple scratches.. no drama. We say our good byes, and head off.<o></o>
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This is where we are headed<o></o>
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the “best” campsite was taken…..Quelle dommage <o></o>
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Bursting for a piss.. is that poison oak?<o></o>
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Food first at the little restaurant<o></o>
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what do you mean the beer store is closed???<o></o>
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all set up<o></o>
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bald eagle<o></o>
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chillin’<o></o>
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/gregjarvi/NovaScotia/photo#5103834747636845570"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/gregjarvi/RtR2qWUwjAI/AAAAAAAAA08/bbZPPJhkWSk/s800/IMGP2158.jpg" /></a><o></o>
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as we’re just sat around enjoying the scenery a group of rowdy Beemer types pulls in. Didn’t snap any pix of them, but they were a good bunch. Turns out they were from all over, and some of them post here on ADV. Quite a collecting of bikes too, couple of GS 1200’s, an old K bike with a trailer and a R 1100 S. WE went over an chatted with them for a while and the 1100 S guy had lost one of his bags… bummer! I told him if I found it, it’d be the one on eBay including clothes!<o></o>
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Anyway, the story has a happy ending, turns out he got the bag back!<o></o>
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that guy has good karma!!<o></o>
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Of course after the sun goes down it starts to rain and a HUGE thunderstorm goes through. Tent was dancing all over, waves crashing below… pretty neat actually.<o></o>
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This is getting to be a pattern.<o></o>
End of day four<o></o>
260 miles more behind us.<o></o>
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Day 5<o></o>
Cabot Trail, the Ceilidh trail and <st1:street><st1:address>Marine Drive</st1:address></st1:street><o></o>
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So after the HUGE thunderstorm the night before at Meat Cove it looks like it&#8217;ll be a fine day<o></o>
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Merc snaps a self-portrait just to prove he was awake at dawn<o></o>
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packed up... hours before Merc <o></o>
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bye Meat Cove<o></o>
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so, we fire up bikes, and I head up the grassy hill. No problem for the Pilot Roads. I figure I&#8217;ll just tool along slowly & wait for Merc at the end of the dirt road. The rain has trashed it over-night, so it&#8217;s pretty slow going.<o></o>
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I get to the end and wait&#8230; and wait&#8230; and wait some more. Finally he shows up. Turns out the &#8220;Road Attacks&#8221; aren't grass attacks! One of the other campers gave him a push and it was all good. <o></o>
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More Cabot trail<o></o>
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"you're right.. old RUSH on the mp3 player does go well with twisties!" that was fun!<o></o>
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so we stop for some food<o></o>
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Merc has a set-to with the francophone girl at the counter&#8230; I didn&#8217;t have a problem ordering, but finally he gets his chow<o></o>
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note the butter tart<o></o>
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didn&#8217;t last long<o></o>
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I spot an S2 7.9 on the way (I used to race these in the <st1lace>Midwest</st1lace>) pretty funny to see one outside the <st1lace>Great Lakes</st1lace>!<o></o>
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Leaving <st1lace>Cape Breton Island</st1lace> I spot this ship<o></o>
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which used to haul steel for Algoma in Sault Ste Marie, the company my dad worked for. Small world.<o></o>
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We hammer along through the countryside, more smooth roads & sweepers, bit flatter than <st1lace><st1lacetype>Cape</st1lacetype><st1lacename>Breton</st1lacename></st1lace> as we run along the coast. We stop in <st1lace><st1lacename>Sheet</st1lacename><st1lacetype> Harbor</st1lacetype></st1lace> and get food & drinks for the night. Next stop &#8220;Murphy&#8217;s Cove&#8221;. The campsite is pretty nice & we&#8217;re set up quickly.<o></o>
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An Englishman&#8217;s castle<o></o>
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chow time<o></o>
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hooked on butter tarts<o></o>
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so, we&#8217;ve made it to Murphy&#8217;s Cove<o></o>
end of day five<o></o>
another 315 miles down <o></o>

Day 6<o></o>
The Lighthouse Trail and points west.<o></o>
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Amazing! No rain last night, but plenty of dew<o></o>
Fall is in the air I think<o></o>
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we hadn&#8217;t cleaned the pan after burgers, so this little guy decides to help out<o></o>
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packed up<o></o>
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leaving the cove<o></o>
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We zip along what&#8217;s left of the Marine Trail before <st1:city><st1lace>Halifax</st1lace></st1:city>. Because of the time, we decide not to explore <st1:city><st1lace>Halifax</st1lace></st1:city>, and just stop for a quick coffee & butter tart. Ah&#8230; Tim&#8217;s express <o></o>
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guess what? No butter tarts :huh<o></o>
Merc&#8217;s not impressed<o></o>
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back on the road<o></o>
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after Hubbards we pick up the coastal road & go through Mahone Bay & Lunenburg. Lots of German signs, and we find out later that Germans are coming over in droves & buying up vacation property&#8230; go figure.<o></o>
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we dribble along the coast for a while and finally end up on 103 around <st1lace>Broad River</st1lace>. Time to make some time. Merc leads & puts the hammer down. We get to <st1:city><st1lace>Yarmouth</st1lace></st1:city> in no time flat.<o></o>
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Leaving <st1:city><st1lace>Yarmouth</st1lace></st1:city> on route 1, we do a little &#8220;Garmin dirt road detour&#8221; towards <st1lace>Lake George</st1lace> for no apparent reason. I laughed anyway. Back on track we picked up the Evangeline Trail. One huge Catholic church after another. I wonder where all the people come from on a Sunday?<o></o>
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after a while, with the sun setting, and no campsites spotted for many miles, we started to wonder where we would end up. Finally got to Digby, found the NSLC & the local Sobey&#8217;s and got directions to a camp &#8220;down by the ferry&#8221;. It certainly wasn&#8217;t the best one we&#8217;d had, but it was home for the night.<o></o>
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safe with drinks and food and starting to cover miles towards home.<o></o>
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End of day 6<o></o>
335 miles done.<o></o>

Yup that was me and I got the bag back but it has lots of battle scars from tumbling down the road. I will be posting my ride report in the next day or so. Funny thing about the Karma is that one of the yellow GSs got a dead battery on Monday in Larry's River. I thought about continuing on my own to Halifax since there was two other people with him but I figured that was bad karma. Now I am glad I had stayed because I would have been to Peggy's Cove a day too early to get my bag back. So I guess it was karma after all.

No lost wallets?

Nope. I guard that little sod like the crown jewels. Course, I was doing the same thing the last time I lost it

Day 7, Evangeline Trail to Glooscap Trail

Breakfast!


Merc’s office



WE head out of Digby fairly early (well I head out early and wait for Mercury at the Shell station. Time passes and he finally shows up with some story about blocked toilets & having to wait. I think he was just snapping artsy photos





pics on the fly



Ran into these guys at… you guessed it, a Tim’s







trikes w/ v-8 engines?
not my cup of tea… but anyway

we'’d originally planned to hammer straight across after Windsor, but ADV’r JTT told us “don’t miss Advocate Harbor”. So, with some inside knowledge, we hugged the coast road. AMAZING!











looking back towards Advocate Harbor

Cape Chignecto





who can say no?



we stopped in Amherst to figure or next move.

Chow



gone!



hello New Brunswick



Radio Canada world service



setting up at the trailer park



our new friend from Halifax
As soon as he pulled in I knew it was a triple.
He’s on ADV too, and he was on his way to Ontario, and then San Diego. Better have a good trip report



oh yeah… talk about small world… I say “where abouts in Ontario?” “Sarnia” he says. Damn… I used to live in Point Edward! Small World!

The three of us polish off our Nova Scotia wine supply & hit the tents. It’s been a most excellent day, with some of the best roads of the trip!

364 more miles behind us.

Day 8<o></o>
The long way home.<o></o>
<o> </o>
We get up to another beautiful day, finish our coffee & head off in search of a Tim&#8217;s. Our plan is just to take the Trans-Canada to the border, and then stop somewhere in <st1:state><st1lace>Maine</st1lace></st1:state>.<o></o>
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House with a gun turret? :huh<o></o>
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getting&#8217; down the road<o></o>
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we make it to the border in fine style. <st1:country-region><st1lace>US</st1lace></st1:country-region> border guards are basically a bunch of surly twats&#8230; and give us grief waiting in line on the bridge &#8220;do you have your documents?&#8221; yes.. right here in the tank bag &#8220;well take them out, we&#8217;re trying to speed this up. NO don&#8217;t stick your passport in your mouth, hold it in your hand!&#8221;.



F&#8217;king clown&#8217;s obviously never ridden a motorcycle. Anyway, the guy at the booth was nicer, and we&#8217;re through customs and stopped at a nearby gas station. It&#8217;s looking like rain&#8230; &#8220;how far to home?&#8221; and we realize we&#8217;ve gained an hour back on eastern time. &#8220;hey it&#8217;s Thursday, lets go to MotoMarket for food and see who&#8217;s hanging out&#8221; (Thursday is euro-trash night). So, with that decided we hit the slab. No pictures from here on, just grinding the miles. We arrive at MM, see a few friends and have some chow. Bone-tired, only another hour to home!<o></o>
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The tale of the tape:<o></o>
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576 miles on the last day.<o></o>
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I gotta say the trip was a blast, everyone we met along the way was friendly & helpful (except the border guards.. they need to take lessons from the Canadian girls! ).<o></o>
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Camping on a motorcycle was a hoot and we saw some amazing scenery. If you&#8217;ve ever been to <st1:state><st1lace>Nova Scotia</st1lace></st1:state>, you know what I mean, and I&#8217;m sure there&#8217;s tons more to see&#8230;. If you haven&#8217;t been WHAT <st1:stockticker>ARE</st1:stockticker> YOU WAITING FOR????<o></o>
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Last, but not least, I&#8217;d like to say a word about our friend Adam Bell. Adam was killed by an old lady who turned left in front of him just over two years ago. Adam talked about going to <st1:state><st1lace>Nova Scotia</st1lace></st1:state>&#8230; he even had the map. Merc got the map from Adam&#8217;s widow, so in a way, he was with us too.<o></o>
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Miss ya old chum. <o></o>
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Nice job Greg and Kevin
glad you guys had a good trip.

great trip!
now where's your Alaska report cracka?

Very Nice!

Thanks.

Whip

Oh, you didn't see the nekkid wimmen on NESR?

I saw you guys at Moto Market This weekend !

So you gents JUST did this trip ??

Awesome report !

The one finger salute is a global gesture that means ................ !!!