Hybrid front fender (half road/half dirt)

The few occasions I had mud issues . . . It was packing mostly under the front part of the fender. I didn't want the after market high fender fork guards . . . They tend to flap around a bit.

I cut the front OEM fender off from the fork guards and bolted up a spare SM fender . . . Which was a direct fit with full radiator guard clearance. This fender was only until I ordered a SE fender . . . Which has more clearance etc.

A hard hit would only cause the tip of the SM fender to flex upward . . . Not locking up the wheel.









Yes, a second brake line is a much better way to go. I added it to my order today:

I replaced the brake line and used the stock fender "Legs" on mine.

Looks great man, that SM fender makes for nice lines (considering... )

I wouldn't go "all in" chasing mud with that set-up however. Here's some sticky stuff from Montana that grounded us over night because of this 950's stock brake lines. The low fender has been completely removed in the field by this time and if you look close you can see that the right caliper has been removed and strapped up on the forks, and the lines are STILL getting pulled apart by the mud. (Guy in red is trying to hold them out of the way as we fight for inches of progress)



The best answer is to re-route those lines and run a high fender! Finding out the hard way sucks...

I do love the rally looks of the low fender though. Your hybrid looks pretty sweet!

Bit odd. Remove the caliper entirely. Put the RH single banjo bolt in place of the LH double banjo bolt. Save the fluid in the crossover line and RH caliper to add back into the MC when you bleed the air out. Would beat tying that caliper up and stuffing around like that. 2c.

Where would you save the fluid? Dirt intrusion?

We didn't get far after that pic, pretty much made camp and waited for things to dry out in the morning. Even the guys with high fenders and thumpers were having trouble in those conditions anyway. Point is, 950 guys can get rid of that "loop" brake line at home and avoid any issues. 990 lines are ready to accept high fender as is.

When I add my 2nd right side brake line and higher SE fender . . . I was planning cutting the back half of the OEM fender off leaving 3" of cross-over plastic so I can keep my stock fork guards stable etc. i like the way it supports the left brake line and speedo cable . . . and is more stable than the standard fork guards.

I haven't had any stability issues. I do have the neoprene guards on the fork legs and that's where the leg shields hit if they move. No marks on them at this point with better than 25,000 miles of use

Be very careful with crossover lines on the low front fender:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667236

:eek1

Far better to go with the 990 setup of using the "S" configuration, which can run inside our outside of the forks. Mine are run inside the forks:

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I plan on adding a 2nd line.
I would not compare the crappy 800GS OEM fender with the 950/990:



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The lines come into the top of the RH caliper so after you take the banjo bolt out the caliper will be full of fluid until you tip it upside down. If you need fluid to top up the MC after you have changed the LH banjo bolt you can remove the RH caliper and pour it into the MC. You can then use the double banjo on the RH caliper with the crossover line doubled over. This is better than getting dirt into the now unused RH caliper or putting a leaking caliper in your luggage. I've had to do this to get myself home after my front wheel locked up with mud.

I note that you have a 2005 ADV, but can you confirm that it's the 210 mm suspension travel, rather than the 230 mm version. I ask because US bikes, an sometimes UK bikes, can be upto a year out with regard to spec - i.e. a bike built in 2004 can have a part-2005 spec.

Off which model/year (part number) are your brake lines?

Thanks.

Here is the thread where this is all laid out: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=763632

I used the 2010 R parts. Not sure about the length of travel on my bike. My bike has a June 2005 build date, and I know it has some parts that are much more like the 2004 bikes (i.e., extra gussets on the frame). I've sat on a 2012 R, a 2012 standard white, and the 2012 Dakar, and the height of my bike is very comparable to the 2012 R but just a tad shorter.

Ahh, I think I understand. Clever!

Thanks for the link.

Your bikes looks like a 2004: seat (by 2005 they had a stepped seat) and the heat shield (looks as if yours stops at the frame - 2005s extended back further).

If you're interested to know if your suspension is 210 or 230 travel, you can measure it with no load on the front forks - just measure from top of axle clamp to bottom of dust seal.

Good plan on your part. And BMWs are not the only bikes that can shatter a low fender. Here are some shots from a prior thread:

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Bottom line is that I like your solution, and I think you are headed in the right direction. You might also consider lifting your low fender just a tad to increase the clearance once you remove that crossover line: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237775​

Good idea . . . I made my 1/4" X 1" aluminum rear support over an inch 1 3/4" higher. I should get my SE fender and 2nd brake line soon. This hybrid fender w/OEM fork guards is not designed for sticky mud . . . Only occasional vey light mud. If I do run into the sticky stuff . . . I will remove the fork guards etc.





The 800GS fender broke on a dry dirt road . . . Which is it what I was referring too. You definitely do not want a low fender in the mud. The Adv OEM fender sould be OK in dry conditions.

800GS fender snapping:


Yikes . . . Raising a low fender wouldn't help in this mud!

Well, I measured my travel with no load on the front forks, and it measures out at about 9.25 inches, which converts to 235mm??? So, I'm guessing that my bike has forks from the original '03-'04 bikes? It's at least 230mm, for sure. I always knew the dang thing was tall!!!

My bike is weird. The bike was obtained originally by a KTM rep. who was responsible for promoting the brand to dealers. I say "obtained" because he got the bike from KTM but didn't actually title it in his name for a couple of years, which greatly lowered the bike's cost to him. He traveled on the bike and displayed it at bike shows. He had access to anything he wanted from KTM, so if he wanted taller travel they just bolted it up for him. The bike came with everything KTM was selling at the time, including a Corbin seat that KTM was promoting.

I thought the stepped seat came along with the 2005.5 bikes. Dunno.

Just a suggestion, but I wouldn't put that brace on. The idea of removing the crossover brake line is to remove something that might one day fall down and grab the front tire. It's OK to destroy a front fender -- no big worries there. But, if what happened to LostRider happened on pavement resulting in a stoppie at speed. . . . :huh That would be bad. So my goal was to remove anything that might grab the tire. I think your brace could grab the tire. So, I just offer the suggestion that you might not want to put that on. Raise the low fender and call it good. That's my plan.

You make a very good point.

I made sure my rear support could not make contact with the tire. When it is bolted tight (w/lock-tight), it makes contact with the caliper bracket which keeps it in place. I loosened the bolts to check clearance . . . The bracket hits the lower shock housing and will not allow it to rub the tire.



Loose position:



I have good clearance when all the way forward if the bolts came loose and fender snapped from mud etc.



The plastic fender supports also help hold everything in place:

You've clearly given this a bit of thought, and to each their own.

But I wouldn't run it. Gives me the heebie-jeebies just looking at it.