We have worked on a lot of these older Ural bikes, We normaly just replace one part. The motorcycle. I would pay what the sidecar is worth to you and no more that way when it gets to the point where you no longer want to fix it you can still mount the sidecar to another bike. Jay G DMC sidecars www.dmcsidecars.com 866-638-1793 jay@dmcsidecars.com
That's just mean Jay. My 650 was damn near trouble free. That said, I sold it and got a 750. To the OP, you should subscribe to this thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18372072#post18372072. I'd also use searchtempest and watch the Gray Market on SovietSteeds. You should be able to find a decent used bike between these three places.
Here's the Vmax sidecar: http://delaware.craigslist.org/mcy/2915956482.html I'm looking at a 750 ural tourist tomorrow or Friday, it's local and I just spoke to the seller on the phone, seems promising. Anyone have a way to easily spot the denso alternator as opposed to the 35a?
If you have to have a Ural, buy the newest one you can afford. That 2006 sounds like a much better deal(depending, of course, on overall condition). Every year they improved upon them and they had plenty of room for improvement. Tarka's 2000 came from the factory a much better bike than the 95, if the UK bikes are anything like the US bikes. The alternator on the older bikes would often grenade, dropping pieces into the crankcase and taking out the engine. If you get an older bike be sure it has been upgraded to the Nippodenso alternator. Been there, done that, would not recommend taking a chance on the OEM RPOC of that era
Yup, I've been studying the alternators so I will know which one the bike I look at has and can make an offer accordingly. The one I'm looking at is a 2003 with front disc brake which I gather means it has the new 750 engine and not the 2002 engine.
The OP should also head over to sovietsteeds.com to ask more questions. I've been researching Urals for a few years now and if there is one thing that I have been told over and over again from current and former owners it's this: Buy a new one, you get a warranty with it and you are going to need it. If you HAVE to buy used, buy the newest used one you can find. Preferably a 2007 or newer model due to the changes that began taking place. And especially for $3300 - I am routinely seeing 2006-2008 Patrol and Gear Ups going for anywhere from $5000 - $8000 (give or take), I would save up some more money to buy a more dependable model. Take it for what it's worth
I've purchased 1 of 26 bikes new. It's the only one I lost money on when I sold. The extended warranty I bought from Honda wasn't worth the paper it was printed on. They basically won't fix anything until your engine pukes its guts out or the frame cracks in half. I'm no longer tempted by warranties, I trust my skills more than the guys at the dealer (you know the guys that forgot to tighten my rear axle nut when I got tires put on a few years ago). I now will not allow anyone to work on my bike other than me. I'm looking at a 2003 Tourist tomorrow or Friday. Aside from the alternator, I don't see any improvements on later models I can't live without.
I haven't had my 2000 Ural on the road long enough to make a valid reliability opinion but the alternator issue on the earlier grenade type alternators can easily be overcome by running a total loss system (marine battery). That being said I think the 2 best reasons to own a Ural rig is it has a reverse gear which other rigs do not (big factor for me even only driving my rig limited miles) and the fact the Ural was designed and made to carry a sidecar. Other rigs, depending upon who and how they were set up, were not and may or may not be safe and handle a s well. Where in Philly are you located? I'm in Elkins Park.
Or by fitting an L424 which I did. Easily done and much cheaper than the (over rated in my opinion) Nippon Denso. The total loss suggestion may be fine for tooling around town or the odd sunny day out but the advocates mustn`t be doing much in the way of distance work. Red Menace was correct in saying that my yr2000 650 was from the improved post-1999 revamp of the factory but I still wouldn`t be put off an earlier one.
I'm definitely going to explore the alternator solutions more as soon as I get a bike, I've read about mitsubishi conversions, the l424, the nippon denso, kryloking the 35a. I will use the 35a alternator as a bargaining chip though.
It's your money, I'm just trying to help you out. A Ural is not like "other" bikes and you will find that in most cases, new owners have had to make very generous use with their warranty coverage. Ural (supposedly) really stands by their warranty coverage and I have not heard of anyone who ever got screwed by them. As for the changes, there are significantly more changes that occured than just the alternator. Again, 2007 seems to be the "sweet spot" from when they really started getting their act together (not that there aren't still problems mind you) . And again, I'm just throwing this out there to help you out - you are going to do what you are going to do Borrowing this from http://www.racewayservicesproductsandaccessories.com/ural-motorcycles--ural-parts-books.html 2003- Brembo disc brakes. IMWA 750 engine (different valves, camshaft, pistons). 2004- Denso alternator. Type IV ignition (outside location, two-piece rotor). Improved 2WD engagement lever (with fixing plate). 2005- Front bumper for Patrol. New bench seats. New wire harness with power outlet in sidecar. 2006- New header fastening system for exhaust pipes. Type V ignition (one-piece rotor). Floating disc on rotor/Troyka front brake. Mechanical rear drum brakes onn Retro. Petcock mounting on the tank without adapter. "Upside-down" type of air filter. Ducati ignition (2006). Neutral indicator off when reverse is "on". Drive shaft with longer splines. 2007- Ducati ignition system. Herzog precision cut timing gears and oil pump gears. Suffaced clutch plates for smooth operation. Herzog shafts and precision cut gears for gearbox. Reverse style drive shaft with longer spline surface area. improved 2WD engagement rod with UNI balls. Improved front sidecar mount to allow more adjustment and negative camber. SKF sealed wheel bearings. Brembo floating disc on all models. Improved sidecar trunk hinges and handle. Standard (7/8) handle bar size and removable risers. Bottom out travel limiter on sidecar arm. NAK seals. SKF bearings. High quality 8.8 hardware used thoughout. 2008- Complete new valve train including 7mm stem valves, sealed valve guides, hardened valve seats and stiffer valve. New clutch springs. Shocks absorbers from Sachs. Pivot bearings install in place of bushing in both front and rear swing arms. Tapered steering head bearings. Steel braided brake hoses. 2009- Stainless steel exhaust pipes and mufflers. Removable plate under the driver's seat. Powder coated body parts on some models. Standard greasable u-joints for 2WD shaft (GMB). Unified EU/US wire harness. 2010- Aluminum alloy rims for Patrol and Tourist models. Polymer driveshaft coupling. Rocker arms with needle bearings. Bearing instead of bronze bushing on camshaft rear end. Polished ports of the cylinder head. Stainless steel used instead of chrome plating on all tubular parts (bumper, clips, handle bars etc.) New design of the low front mounting point of the sidecar. Marzocchi telescopic forks on Retro and ST models. 2011- Color options. Aluminum rims all models. Duro tires - all models. Trunk locks. Round marker lights. Canvass tonneau covers & aprons. Tonneau bungee cords. Single seat and package rack - Gear-Up models only. Aluminum fork securing bolts. Heavy duty ring gear bolts. Touch up paint discontinued. Improved sidecar windshield frame. Factory paint codes unavailable. 2012- All models, gloss black powder paint replaced with flat black powder paint for frames, swing arms, wheel hubs, luggage racks, handlebars and all other non-body parts. (T-Series) Body parts: flat black powder paint without pin stripes or flat OD powder paint without pin stripes. Gas tank- without knee grips, without tool kit and air pump and no cover for the driver seat. (Patrol T) Body parts: flat black powder paint without pin stripes or flat OD powder paint without pin stripes. Gas tank- without knee grips, without tool kit and air pump, no cover for driver seat, no tonneau cover and no power outlet in the sidecar. (Gear-Up) Gobi- powder paint for the main color instead of regular liquid paint and New "Forest Fog" paint scheme. (Retro) European wire harness (similar to what in use for other models) sidecar interior - standard, no sidecar windshield, no handshifter, Spare wheel installed at the factory. Body parts - black powder paint with gloss clear coat, no pin stripes. Trim - silver (stainless steel or polished aluminum) single driver seat ("tractor"type) + luggage rack on the rear fender. Wheels - silver aluminum rims + 18" Duro tires. (tourist, Patrol) Body parts black and white colors - powder paint with gloss clear coat, body parts for all other colors and combinations - regular liquid paint with gloss clear coat.
I hear everything you're saying, a 2007 is a better bike. I just don't see many for sale and I'd rather get into the hack game cheaper. We'll see what I end up with.
Yeah it's hit or miss - sometimes I find a bunch of them for sale and then there is a bit of a dry spell. Right now seems to be a bit of a dry spell :)
I also have to remember, I've never ridden a hack. I don't know if I'll like it, I don't know if I'll be content going 60mph. I'm used to barreling down the highway at least 15mph above the posted limit. So with that said, I'd rather spend 4 grand as opposed to 8 grand. I suspect I will enjoy the Ural and I can always upgrade in the future. Seems to be a tight knit community
Exactly the reasons I got my basket case 650 ural a year and a half ago. Just passed 25000km on it (since I rebuilt it) and I have no interest in getting rid of it. Love it. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635130 I just finished a second engine rebuild. (My own doing, I tried to break 70 mph, and broke a set of circlips instead)
I agree with this. After having my total loss for a year and a half, I will be putting a 424 on mine. I do travel on mine quite a bit, and although I can get a good 600-800km day out of one charge, I am ready to have my trunk back, and it is a pain to have to use hotel rooms every night I am traveling just to charge the battery. Commuting, it isn't really a problem. I get back and forth for a week before charging.
I haven't found a 650 for under 3 grand sadly. Even the dneprs around here are above 3 grand and they don't even have titles.
Keep looking, Mine was advertised here in the flea market as having a ruined electrical system. The sit outside also locked up the engine. I picked it up for 1500. By the end of the thread I posted, I might have put another 700 into it including tires. Parts are cheap, there are still several good dealers over here.
so you're into it for 2200...I can pick up a running 650 for close to 3 grand...or a 750 for close to 4 grand. i'll keep looking, but if there is one thing I know about bikes, you can't just have one, probably the same thing with hacks
