DR650SE Index Topic # 9 ELECTRICAL/LIGHTING

Diode Wiring for LED turn signals (dash indicator light): Here ya go, 4th post:
http://drriders.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7624&view=unread#unread

My 2006 DR650se (52K miles) died several times in the last month, requiring the bike be hauled home. Just riding along, it died, like turning the key off. I read, talked and begged for input from friends. Last evening I found the problem.

The number plate was off, providing access to the wires at the headlight. When the engine would die, the nuetral light would get very dim. I happened to brush my hand over the plug coming from the kill switch. The wire was VERY hot, with the insulation starting to sag... just about a melt down.

I killed the key power and traced the wire to the left side of the bike under the side plate, just below the rectifier. The wire was worn 1/2 way thru and shorting to the frame. Fixed it by stripping insulation off enough to solder the frayed wire, taped it up and put on some plastic wire sheath as protection from future problems.

Rode it to work today with no problems. It was the wire going to the tail light.

UPDATE: July 18th 2018
Bike still going at 89,000 with no further issues, including a solo Alaska ride summer of 2016. Guess a rider should check the wiring sometimes.

Dave

Wow! Good work Dave! Those are the kind of mystery failures that can be very hard to pin down! Too few of us check our wiring looms for abrading against metal. I also see some wear on my loom up around the central frame tube around the steering head. In places I've wrapped a bit of bicycle tube in critical areas. Not noticed any abrading near the rectifier/regulator ... but will FOR SURE look in that area now.

This kind of thing could cause a fire ... and really ruin your whole day. So glad you got to it before any damage was done!
Plus One for good maintenance!

I posted on DRRIDERS to no avail. I swear I've seen this posted before, but googling hasn't helped me.

Can anyone help me with the type, or preferably source to purchase, the male connector for the 2 Auxiliary switched power plugs: 1 in headlight bundle, the other somewhere under seat/ near shock?

i thought I found it on Eastern Beaver (where else?) but wasn't 100%.

TIA!

Thanks Adv Grifter. Guess I should get a photo and post it. The wear spot was where the four wires come out of the harness and were rubbing on the frame tube that goes up and back below the rectifier.



er70s-2 took this nice photo showing the wires next to the frame tube. All DR riders should check this spot before the bike dies on the side of the road like mine.

Dave

Me too! Me too! Yes, when someone can report how and where to find these plugs, it would be nice to post in Krusty's DR electric pages. It would be great if PC carried those. I'd take several for myself and friends.

Dave

Can't remember where I got mine from. It's a Hitachi plug if I recall?

Paging ER70S-2, ER70S-2 to the white courtesy phone.

2 pin 2.8mm - .110 Male and Female locking connector
http://www.electricalconnection.com/electrical-components/hitachi.htm

ETA:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html

Also:

Thanks to Danny650:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4549637&postcount=4418

Another link thanks to Fordbailey:
http://electricalconnection.com/index.php/product/hitachi-2-pin-connector/

Big thanks!

+1

Warp 9s new starter end cap is available to eliminate this problem
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#electrical

Anyone have a spare ignition key switch (with key) that will fit a 2007 DR650? Or know of a good deal on one?

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks...

I have one with the 2 original keys, though I have cut off the terminal connector. Helmet lock and gas cap included. PM if interested.

On other bikes, I've used universal on/off ignition switches (without a START position). These are cheap, and found in most auto parts stores. No steering lock, obviously, and the ignition lock could probably be defeated by a strong arm and a screwdriver, but it is an inexpensive option.



Bike Bandit and Babbitt's are good sources for discount OEM parts.

You might try asking in the Flea Market or The DR650 Thread, as this thread is primarily more of a information resource ...

Thanks for the info and help.

I think that was good information and that this thread was a good resource...

PM'ed

I’ve seen posts that point us to vendors of the DR650’s electrical connectors, but I ended up searching quite awhile once on the sites. So, I thought I’d try to speed up the process in case anyone wants to quickly find materials to bypass their sidestand switch or connect to the extra black-white/brown, switched power connection by the headlight.

This page has the connector for the DR650 sidestand switch.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SM-MT/sm-mt.html

It’s called 2P090WP-MT-SPA and comes with the male/female connector pair, necessary terminals and seals. I used the smaller side of the connector pair (female connectors) to construct a jumper.



Works a charm!



This page has the connector for the available two-wire, switched black-white/brown pair in the wiring loom behind the headlight.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/110_Connectors/110_connectors.html

It’s called 2P110.

Here's a link to a photo of the above mentioned black-white/brown pair from earlier in this thread.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18356712&postcount=97

I HIGHLY recommend ordering extra terminals, but you’re likely a better crimper than I. Eastern Beaver requires a $20 minimum order, so you might as well pick up some extra parts. (As you’re putting together your order, shipping will be astronomical – I got up to $700 – but it drops back down to a reasonable rate once you exceed $20 in product.)

My 2007 has been getting harder and harder to start, and has always squealed like a pig. Finally it quit starting altogether accompanied by solenoid clicks. Battery tested and checked out fine.
I took the starter off expecting to find a mess, but it looks okay. The shaft though is hard to turn by hand. Is this normal or should it turn freely? Any further diagnosis or disassembly that I should do?
Thanks!

Should turn reasonably freely. Pull the end cap and have a look, the 2 long bolts and it separates. Mark/check for alignment to make assembly simpler before.