SomedayNeverMaybe | Denver >>> S.A.

This RR will certainly be in my ADV hall of fame . Thanks for putting it all out there

what a great time you had, and me too, thanks for sharing it. You have had the type of trip Im sure many dream of and never attempt, although I think you may have altered your future forever, I can see another big ride in your future. I took my first roadtrip on a Suzuki 150 two stroke street bike in 1969, went from San Francisco to Vancover Island and back, and to this day I still remember the highlights, To say I was overloaded would be an understatement, giant backpack, huge sleeping bag, guitar, fishing poles, tent, cooking gear, everything i could strap or tie on, sadly no camera......the only tool was a sparkplug wrench and a bunch of extra plugs, those 2 strokes were hard on plugs....best memory was northern calif. camping inside a giant hollowed out redwood tree during a massive thunder and rain storm, then 3 hippies showed up in a vw bug with no gear and we all spent the night in the tree, bike included...nice and dry with a fire going at the opening.......
Sorry for the highjack, but your trip has me thinking again...who knows, maybe another trip is in order............all the best , gona miss your reports

Thank you sir. The visual of you guys camping in that tree is awesome. You live in Cali now? If so, I'll be passing through. Maybe we can recreate the tree camp experience.

Hey David. I've been following you since last November, right down to the bike preparation. Spectacular adventure and I'm sad it's wrapping up.
I never did read Eat, Pray, Love, but I'm certain your story knocks the shit out of it.
Since the warmer weather set in around the greater, greater Verdi, NV area, I've been out on my my own adventures, but strangely enough, I still needed the bigger ride vicariously through you since I'm tied into life here with the occasional 5-7 days to go big. Great Job.
Like many people, I've gotten to know you through simply following your posts and though you don't know me, you are welcome anytime. Whatever your plans are once you pick up your bike in the states and you somehow are near the Tahoe/Truckee area, I'd be happy to do some riding and even introduce you to some off-road but leisure routes over the Sierras through some amazing landscapes. Or just a beverage at the local pub as you ponder your next move to integrate back into the norms non non-chaotic nature of U.S.

Cheers,

Arlo
arlob@me.com

Ev and I have enjoyed reading your blog David, it was great to meet you and share some of your adventure with you. Good luck with your next adventure in life where ever it takes you mate.

Thanks Sheldon... You guys are great, and I look forward to meeting up again sometime. Best of luck as you continue on in your travels. I'll keep up via the RR. Don't get in too much trouble!

Hey, thanks for the kind words, and thanks for the invite to catch a pint with you.

Actually a few interesting things have happened over the past few days/weeks. I went on a couple of outings with this girl Dyann before I left. Since I was headed out shortly after we met, we didn't really pursue much. However, somewhere along the way she has grown an interest in motos, so we've reconnected.

When I met her she was already traveled, smart, witty, and attractive. Now she likes motorcycles, so I just may well be in love. Don't tell Nina! :)

She claims I was a bit of inspiration and wants to do a similar trip someday soon. So, over the past few months we've been chatting on and off. She has since bought a KLR, and named her Black Betty (my vote was for Black Barry as the bike looked a bit more manly to me). Peppered in with bike and route advice, we've been chatting about other things, and I've enjoyed her virtual company.

She has delayed her 'big' trip due to work complications, but asked the other day if I want company riding back from Cali (she has a wedding in Sonoma on Aug 16th). So now the final 'solo' part of my adventure won't be solo. She will meet me in LA when I land on the 6th. From there we'll ride to McCittrick, then over to Santa Margarita. Then shoot up the coast to Santa Cruz. From there we'll make our way to Yosemite, and then up north through forests/mountains to somewhere on the coast in northern Cali or southern Oregon. After all that, we'll head down the coast for the wedding, then more coast back to LA. Then we bolt east and have a nat'l park route planned back to Denver.

All that said, if you are down for it we could both meet up with you. Be it for a drink, some riding, a place to crash, or a combo of it all. How's about we take it off the forum and over to e-mail from here to plan? david.p.mobley@gmail.com

Thanks mate! Looking forward to putting a face to the online sig. Chat soon,

~ D

Well I went and bought a DR650 for the trip as I think the WR would have left me wanting. Plan is to head out in January 2015. Thanks again for the inspection and if you make it Portland you have a place to crash.

Love Portland, but won't make it this trip I'm afraid. Union Jacks, The Nines (hotel), and Voodoo (of course) are all on my list of faves.

Enjoy the D-arrrr!

Making Sense of it All in Buenos Aires...

Saturday, August 2nd, 2014
____________________________



Writing this from a small cafe near my apartment on a rainy Saturday. I'm here every morning, sit in the same place, and order my usual cafe con leche y tres medialunas. In fact, they bring it now without asking, which I've come to enjoy. I'd forgotten I'm a creature of habit, and have enjoyed having order and routine in my life the past few weeks. I also jog every day after my lazy breakfast/coffee, and it's felt great to get back into an exercise routine. I've gotten to know the neighborhood, speak with shop owners, have a favorite piece of street art nearby, and feel like I really 'live' here. Tacking on this portion of the adventure at the end has been really nice. I've grown to enjoy BsAs, and can see why so many people end up here permanently.



While being stationary after a trip like this can be relaxing, there can be a downside too. Along the way I was moving fast! I saw so many incredible people, places, and things that I really didn't get a chance to come up for air. The first week of being here I felt a bit 'off'. I couldn't place it, but it dawned on me that I was alone in a big city, and for the first time in almost a year have been able to stop, reflect, and simply sit with my emotions. There are no distractions, and at first that felt strange, and at times bad. I tend to avoid negative emotions and feelings by masking them with clever techniques I've learned over the years (motorcycling, adventures, booze, parties, women, work promotions, excessive exercise, etc). Once I allowed myself the 'OK' to simply feel, and started thinking and writing about the emotions and memories that came up, I was able to work through a lot of disquieting things, some of which were main motivators to take this journey in the first place (divorce, loneliness, fears/worries about future, death, etc). Amazing what happens when you allow yourself to do nothing. In that regard BsAs has been a very therapeutic resting point for me, and a very powerful way to wrap up South America.



Ok... feelings, emotions, butterflies, and bunnies aside, what the F have I been up to here in BsAs? Well I'll tell ya... First off, I loaded my bike at the airport the other day. Again, I'm using the help of Sandra and Javi at Dakar Motos and would HIGHLY recommend you follow suit if you find yourself in need of shipping. Everything went smooth at airport/LAN Cargo facility. Sandra had a 'handler' waiting for me. He took care of all the paperwork while I worked to get the bike wrapped up. Within an hour we had the bike 'packaged', weighed, and ready for shipment. Everything mint until a semi-retarded fucktard of a forklift driver plowed into the back of my bike breaking the rear light assembly. Whatever, Sandra worked with the shipping company to have them deduct a few bucks off the shipping cost, so it's all good. If that's all that happens I guess I could consider it a success!



What else? Let's see... Last Monday I went to a show called La Bomba de Tiempo at Konex Cultural Center. There were hundreds of people in the crowd to witness what can only be described as an Argentinian 25-man powerful drum circle on steroids. It was recommended to me, but I didn't really know what to expect. The show is about two hours and features some amazing drumming, rhythms, guest artists jamming, dancing, and of course drinking. Afterward the party spills into the countless bars and discos where locals and gringos alike continue to slam Quilmes, Fernet y Coca, and dance the night away (seriously, this city never sleeps - no wonder the economy just went into default for a second time).



Tuesday nights have provided a few options. First, there is a free language/cultural exchange event called MundoLingo. They have multiple events per week in different parts of the city. Upon arrival you are given a sticker of the flag where you're from (native language), then another flag of the country/language you want to visit/learn respectively. It's a really cool event, but if you expect to simply practice language skills be forewarned. Let me break it down for you. 9pm-10pm is language/cultural exchange, 10pm-12am the drinks flow heavily and the event becomes more of a multicultural meat market of sorts, 12am-1am the crowd thins and leaves remaining culturally diverse new 'couples' practicing their international make out skills. After all that the crowd disperses and 'cultural exchange' is moved into nearby telos. Telo = hotelo, a 'by the hour' hotel set up exclusively for twenty/thirty somethings who still live with their parents. Some with themed rooms (think Zeus w/ heart shaped bathtub, or Love Boat w/ miniature cruise ship bed). Some are five star, some of them you'd be ashamed to tell your mother about, and should provide Purell at the door. Another option is HYPE at Kika Club, which is a very popular weekly event playing bass, trap, hip-hop, and dance music. It gets absolutely packed in there, so a tip is to add your name to the list on FB for free entry, and to skip line. Again, all that on a Tuesday night. When do they sleep???



Other notable nightlife options include a drink at Frank's, which is a hip speakeasy at Arévalo 1445 where you have to enter a phone booth and input a code to gain entry. There's also a great monthly event every last Friday called +160 Suite at a cool club called Bahrein. 160+ provides driving, forward thinking d'n'b, and bass music upstairs, along with thumping underground minimal house downstairs. Again, add yourself to guest list on Facebook (you can get in essentially anywhere in the city free this way - thanks for the tip Nicole!). Finally, if it's in town, and you can manage to get tickets, I would highly, HIGHLY recommend hitting up Fuerza Bruta. It's a postmodern theatre show held in a lofty warehouse space. Surreal, ethereal, full of energy, and amazing, the show interacts highly with the crowd and creates an experience like none other. Really, it's hard to explain, but if you have a chance check it out for yourself. It's like a 'cooler' version of Cirque du Soleil (pre corp sellout) w/ less acrobatics and more emphasis on theatre, dance, and music.



Although the city thrives after dark, there are also amazing things to see, visit, and experience during waking hours. Some of my favorites include strolling around Palermo, searching out stylish cafes, exploring and enjoying San Telmo and the plethora of street art and musicians, getting lost in Cementerio de la Recoleta, perusing Sunday markets, and visiting MACBA (Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Buenos Aires) and the surrounding galleries. BsAs is hip and stylish, and full of art, culture, good food, and energy. I've grown to really enjoy it here.



From here things have changed slightly. Before I left Denver I met a girlfriend named Dyann. We got along well and had a lot in common. However, since I was headed out, we fell out of touch. Somewhere along the way she has gotten inspiration to do a similar motorcycle trip to mine. That said, we've reconnected and I've been answering questions, and giving her my $.02 about motorcycles and traveling. She now has a black KLR all farkled out for adventure (she named it Black Betty, I've renamed it Black Barry). A job opportunity has delayed her 'big trip', but she is taking a ride from Denver out to Sonoma for a wedding on the 16th. She knew I was landing in early August, and asked if we could ride together. That's when we came up with the plan to meet in LA and ride together from there. That said, Dyann left today and is on day one of her first ever motorcycle adventure. We'll meet in LA on the 6th, and stay a couple nights with a friend. Then shoot up the coast to Big Sur, and over into Yosemite area. From there we'll meet up with fellow ADVrider Arlo, and after sharing beers and swapping stories, will continue up through mountains and forests to the N CA or S OR coast, and then ride down the PCH into Sonoma. After the wedding in Sonoma we'll ride east through several national parks back to Denver... Home. The end. Fin.



It's a crazy thought this chapter coming to a close. One one hand it feels like I was leaving yesterday scared and anxious, on the other it feels I've been on this adventure for a lifetime. So many experiences, memories, interruptions and lifelong friends met along the way. While I'll be sad for it to end, I'm equal parts happy and excited. Happy I'll be able to see friends and family soon. Excited to see where life takes me over the next few years. Somewhere along the way this trip has made me much stronger. It's gotten rid of a lot of fears and anxieties that I had. I watched 'Why We Ride' randomly the other night, and the section with Ted Simon (watch here) moved me deeply. He sums up how powerful this experience has been for me. I too "tasted the world, and that was when everything in my life changed completely". Interestingly, when it pans to the shot in LA and he talks about being out of place back home, well I'd be lying if I said that didn't concern me. But, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Like the countless seemingly impassable bridges that I crossed on this journey. "You're alive, what else do you need?"... Preach on Jupiter!



I think that's a wrap. It stopped raining, so I think I'm gonna take a random bus, get lost, and jog back home through the city. I've only three more days, and feel like there's much more to explore. So with that, I'm out!

Will write more soon... Thanks for listening to/reading my ramblings. ~ D



PS... I wrote most of this yesterday, and got some troubling news afterward. That said I wanted to add a quick update, my step-grandma (aka 'Granny') passed yesterday peacefully surrounded by loving family. She lived an amazing and interesting life. I remember telling her a couple years back about my dream to take a motorcycle trip someday, and she said "follow your dreams, you shouldn't have regrets when it all comes to an end". She then proceeded to regale me with tales of her own travel adventures. It was a sweet moment. RIP Bette H. You lived an amazing life, and raised an amazing family.

Subscribed! Looking forward to your journey.

Great post Dmob

On ur thoughts and feelings - I tend not to think about life, just live! Do what makes you feel good and usually everything falls into place.

I'll say a prayer for Granny

Stay safe and have fun...

Rhino

Back in the US... Back in the US... Back in the USSA!!!

Sunday, August 10, 2014



I'm baaaaaack! Literally, and figuratively... back in the States both physically, and back online with another post.

Since I booked my flight with United miles leftover from my previous life as a posh businessman, routing wasn't ideal. Can't complain when the flight/s were free though. Plus, I've gained a hell of a lot more patience on this trip. I boarded my flight in BsAs the evening of the 5th, which put me into Houston the morning of the 6th. From there I had relatively painless flights to San Francisco, and then on to LA.



Reuniting with the motorcycle was a long process, but fairly easy. LAN Cargo is very close on Avion, so you can actually take any of the free hotel shuttles and walk the one block or so to the office. A brief thanks to Dan (PlacesBeyond) for the tips. Once there you present your paperwork and pay your fees, then take a taxi to US Customs where you fill out a few forms and get stamped in, then after all that, head back to LAN where your bike will be delivered via forklift. I unwrapped the bike, reconnected the battery, mirrors, windscreen, and luggage, and was on my way.



My good friend Sam lives in Santa Monica and offered his place for Dyann (my friend and current/new riding partner - see last post) and me to stay for a couple of nights. Talk about culture shock, after 9mos of slummin' it I found myself in a deluxe oceanside penthouse w/ ample garage parking. Sam if you read this, THANK YOU so much for the hospitality and for showing me/us around the area. I've spent some time in LA, but never really explored Santa Monica, Main St, or Abbott Kinney, all of which are great. There is also a Deus Ex Machina location nearby, and I ended up there three times in two days having coffee, drooling over custom bikes, and enjoying fantastic conversations with new friends. We sampled fantastic cuisine, craft beer, amazing coffee, and expensive wine. We even ended up at Jumbo's Clown Room (don't ask) one of the nights for several pints of piss, bad decisions, and a solid headache the next day. Long story short, I really enjoyed my time with Sam and Dyann, and hopping around the city. A great way to start my reintroduction Stateside.



From the city Dyann and I rode up the coast a bit. Around Ventura we ventured north towards McKittrick. From there we took 58 west to Santa Margarita, then cruised the coast all the way to Big Sur, where we found a sweet cliffside campsite overlooking the Pacific in Los Padres Nat'l Forest near Will Creek Rd. Being essentially brand new to riding, I'm really proud of Dyann. Not only is it her first street bike, but her first trip as well, and she is ripping around like an old pro, and has all the gear sorted perfectly (probably better than me I'm ashamed to say). I'm hard pressed to think of another girl who can clean up for a successful business career, is witty, fun, loves motorcycles, and also doesn't mind camping multiple nights in primitive settings (i.e. no showers, water access, etc). Needless to say, she's 'down'.



After our first night under the stars, we broke camp around 8am and headed up the coast. Near Kirk Creek we hooked a right up and away from the coast on Nacimiento-Fergusson Road. Let me just say this, that road is F'ing amazing! Also, plenty of choice, free, motorcycle-friendly camping dotting the roadside. From there we continued east on beautiful roads all the way to Sequoia Nat'l Park. The day and ride reminded me how much I've missed some parts of the US, and California. We ended up finding another amazing, free campsite just north of the park, into nat'l forest area (north of Stony Creek - near Horse Camp/Big Meadows on Forest Rd 14S11). We set up camp last night, and will be here through tonight. Tomorrow we'll head to/through Yosemite and spend the night there. After that, we'll head north on 395 exploring our way up to Tahoe. No real plan after that, just need to be in Sonoma on the 15th.



Being back has been surreal to say the least. This morning I was abruptly awakened by a tree cracking and falling near our camp. It startled me, and for a second I didn't remember where I was. For a brief moment it felt like the whole Central and South American portions of this trip were a dream, and that I just woke up back home. It was a strange feeling.



Another weird thing happened yesterday. As we were nearing the park, I was behind a car full of 20-somethings. As I was about to pass, the driver brake checked hard. I didn't react negatively, and just went around slowly staring to see what kind of asshat would endanger a life behind him. As soon as I passed, the car sped up and drove about six inches off my tail. Again, I chose not to react, just turned on my GoPro. They refused to pass, and rode behind me for a couple miles. Finally, when another lane came available they passed quickly and fingers were flying out of the windows. My first instinct was to 'salute' back, but I just laughed inside my helmet and let it slide. After a few miles the kid slammed on the brakes again and came to a complete stop in the middle of the road. I'm assuming they wanted a reaction, but I just waited until they turned into a parking spot on the left. I slowly rode by staring intently and gave them a friendly wave. The whole car started shaking and again there was a flurry of one-finger salutes. I just rode on and wondered what had gotten them so riled up. I laughed inside my helmet thinking of all the real shit I encountered on this adventure. It was my first experience with true American road rage since I've left. I think it was an entitlement thing. He felt he was entitled to be at the front of the line, and when I went by, it hurt his ego somehow. The whole thing is a testament to how I've changed. That would have pushed my buttons to no end before, and would have ended differently for sure. It felt great to just ride on. Anyway, I hope the juggalo in the silver Mazda3 w/ tag 7ENM193 had a better day today. PS... Nice neck tattoo, I'm sure that'll help you land the job of your dreams!



I guess that's it for now. I'm in a café inside the park getting caught up, but am gonna go check out a few sights on the bike. Dyann went to tour one of the caves, but I can't be bothered with throngs of tourists at the moment, so I opted out. I'm gonna take a few fire roads to enjoy the perfect weather, and get lost in some good tunes. Until then...

~ D

Who Knew? KLR's Aren't Bulletproof After All...

Wednesday, August 13, 2014



Well let me start by saying I'm so sorry to Dyann. Her new (to her) KLR took a $hit yesterday. We were cruising along beautiful highway 395 when she had full power loss. In addition to the bike shutting down, it was on temp redline. That said, I immediately removed the fairing and checked coolant level, which was full. I didn't want to bump the bike as I didn't want to cause further issue with the motor if she had thrown a rod or spun a bearing. Plus, if it was the alternator or stator it wouldn't have done much good anyway. I didn't think she blew the motor as I was behind her and didn't notice any smoke or have specks of oil anywhere. We flagged down an incredibly nice CHP officer named Danny and he called a tow truck. We had it towed to Reno Kawasaki, which was luckily only 10 minutes from my new friend and host Arlo (fellow ADVrider). We prayed it was a small electrical gremlin and went on our way.



Arlo was an incredibly generous host, and in addition to offering up the comforts of his home, provided us with a nice night tour of Verdi. Fast forward to today, we got the call that we were dreading from the dealership. Unfortunately the KLR had burned through two full quarts of oil in our three days of riding, and had essentially seized the engine. Game over! I feel guilty as I probably should have given the bike a once over prior to setting off. She did check the oil before departure and said it was full. The kicker, I had offered to show her how to change the oil at Arlo's so she had a full three quarts and a filter in her bag. I'm not sure how it's possible for a bike to guzzle/burn essentially all oil in the motor in several hundred miles. Standard for a KLR? There was never a visible leak anywhere, and I never noticed smoke when behind. You'd think the owner would have mentioned how oil hungry the damn thing was when she bought it. Maybe the oil pump was faulty? Maybe a bigger issue? Who knows... Long story short, her ride, and our ride together is over for now. She will be renting a car to get to Sonoma for the wedding, and I guess I'll continue on my way home solo. I'm bummed as I was really enjoying our time and rides together.



All that said, I'll try to fill a portion of this post with some positive writing/thoughts. When I left off we were in Sequoia National Park. From there we ended up riding north to Yosemite, which was absolutely beautiful. Indescribable beauty really. The ride leading to the park, the roads within, and the ride out had me smiling and stopping for photos the entire way. We found a really nice campsite within the park, which surprised me. After exploring the park that day, and laughing fireside with a couple of new friends that evening, we set off yesterday morning for Arlo's/Verdi. East on 120, then north on 395, the entire ride was stellar. Not only was the scenery breathtaking, but the ride is peppered with quaint old towns like Lee Vining and Bridgeport. It feels like you are riding back in time to the 50's... back when the US was filled with small towns and friendly people.



Speaking of Arlo and the great guy he is, he's been following my posts from the beginning. It's been cool and motivational to have people along for the ride. Over long conversations last night however, I couldn't help but feel like I may have disappointed him a bit. I think along the way he expected me to find the 'golden ticket' to life, the perfect career, an exotic beach to live on, and the love of my life. Well, I didn't. It was like the author of a book he enjoys reading was there in person, and he was urging said author to finish the damn thing! It was a strange feeling. During the ride yesterday I was smiling the entire time. I'm so happy at present. I'm confused as $hit with everything, this trip ending, not knowing how things will pan out, BUT I'm excited about all that. I can really do anything I want now. Along the way I've been gifted with much more patience, I've overcome and lost the majority of my fears and anxieties, and I've certainly become more comfortable being uncomfortable. I honestly feel comfortable now not knowing how my book will end. I'm not terrified of the unknown. In fact the opposite, I'm giddy with anticipation at this point. Life is special, good, and God knows... short.



Anyway, I guess that's enough rambling for now. I'm gonna get Dyann drunk to ease her bike woes and help Arlo prep some ribs for the grill. I think tomorrow we'll do a loop around Lake Tahoe, then head out on Friday. I have three options. First, head to Sonoma solo to join her for the wedding festivities, then ride back to Verdi to rendezvous with the KLR and continue our planned ride to Denver. Second, I could head to San Fran to visit with a couple of friends, then meet Dyann back in Verdi when her bike is done. Third, and the option I'm leaning towards at present, head out Friday on 50 towards Great Basin Nat'l Park. Then kick it down through Zion/Bryce, and Monument Valley. Then enter Colorado near Four Corners for a ride through 550, then ultimately back to Denver solo, the way this whole thing began nine months back. Decisions, decisions... Hmmm...



Anyway, chat soon. This adventure ain't over yet!

~ D

Hey man, welcome back to "civilization" Your incident with those dikheads reminded me when I returned from my long trip without a scratch and a few weeks later getting into an accident (not at fault) totaling my bike. I guess U S A is THE most dangerous country after all haha. I' ve been living in LA for 19 years and its bad for bikers because all the kamikazee "im entitled" attitude drivers here. For that reason I stopped commuting on my bike.

Anyways glad you re doing great, and wish your adventure never stops!!

cheers!!

HELP!!!

Hey, Dyann here (David's riding partner in crime). Please see link to a post I just put up. If anyone can help, that would be much, MUCH appreciated. Basically, need a new/used motor.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1001696

Thanks for looking,

Oh crap sorry to hear about your trouble. I'm new to KLR.. bought one recently after David's suggested it

To be serious I know the early models do burn oil, you can get a mod to fix it but I never heard burning that much like yours.

You might want to try also posting for help here:

http://www.klr650.net/

Those guys are hardcore experts.

Good luck hope you can sort it out soon!

DUDE! I promise they are bulletproof... In most cases at least. :/

Anyway, thanks for the tip. I'll pass the site along to Dyann.

New video from the past few days/rides... Vimeo won't let me post any videos now (new music copyright catcher), so I'll have to revert back to $hitty YouTube. Brutal. Anyway, be sure to click and watch in HD.

Enjoy...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RzeBuYZjw0&feature=youtu.be

Hey man, I'm over in Sacramento if you guys need anything. Sorry to hear about your engine troubles.
-T