Got the rpm trigger connected and also wired in a SAE connector to power the unit while riding as well as battery tender I'm not totally sold on the quality of this unit. The connectors are flimsy and lose connection easily. I was chasing the TPS voltage dropping out and it was simply the analog connector. The O2 sensor also dropped out. Maybe I got a bad unit. I'll give it a whirl as it is, but I think that the unit needs to get swapped.
I started looking into these after you said you were getting one. It looks like such a cool thing. If you aren't that happy with the innovate one, there's a canadian company 14point7.com that makes something similar. Here's a link to a guy using it with his megasquirt and got the one that you have to put together but they sell a complete one. Now I want one. Keep up the good works.
So apparently the last moron who worked on these carbs forgot to tighten the carb boots. Idiots all around me And I wonder why it ran like crap. Got the jet kit installed which included drilling the slides, I put in 140 142 142 140 mains needles on 3rd clip, new springs. I also said goodbye forever to those crap phillips carb bowl screws and replaced them with some stainless socket cap screws. Other than jetting I also machined up a custom damper post mount that I welded to to the steering stem. Works well. I need to get the bike back together and go for a ride now that I have the AFR unit hooked up. Maybe later tomorrow, have to pick up my new dirt bike tomorrow morning.
Good on ya, Lad! A man after my own heart. I just went down to the local industrial screw place and bought a baggie of 100 for $8 and replace ALL of those damn screws. Oh, and the first rule of tuning is make sure it's put together right! Trust me, I learned that one the hard way when I was about 20 - I had a GS1000S (indexed to era/technology, possibly my favorite bike ever). The connector for the coil wire got oil and dirt on it, and went intermittent. It behaved ***exactly*** like a jetting problem, i.e. certain behaviors at certain RPM. Turned out that the connector was jiggling different ways at different RPM. Took months of frustration to figure out WTF was happening.
Yeah those screws day were numbered. I had them off a week ago and they were a bitch to get off. I ended up having to use vise grips to get a few out. While searching for jetting kits I ran across a thread where someone suggested doing that AND gave the dimensions. i had an open order with McMaster Carr (which is the greatest store ever in my humble opinion) and I think a bag of 100 was about $6. I'm excited to try it today knowing that the jetting could have been fine but without the boots tight obviously is not going to run. Surprised it wasn't backfiring. My KTM 950 would launch a fireball and explode if the carb boots weren't tight Pics and a report hopefully later today
no pics I didn't get around to it yesterday. Was picking up my new Husky TXC511 and swapping parts from my 2011. I do have one pic I just took as I walked by the bike. I'm really getting tired of the bike looking like this, sigh. Sad thing is I know exactly where every wire and connector goes. I could probably put that bike together blindfolded. That is the nice thing about building your own bike. You are forced to become intimately involved with every single screw, every wire, you know before the bike coasts to a stop on the side of the road what is wrong. Course you also paid for that knowledge with scraped knuckles and 3 am nights working on your little beasty, a worthy trade in my opinion.
OK so I made some good progress on the bike. I rode about 75 miles last weekend and the bike ran TERRIBLE. Bogging, wouldn't idle, gas vapor pouring out of the exhaust. Generally unrideable. So I got the LM2 AFR meter, a Dynojet kit with adjustable needles and hooked it all up. When I went to take the carbs off for the 6547th time, I noticed the clamps were loose. Dammit. I took the carbs off, replaced the parts with the parts from the Dynojet kit and set the adjustments to their recommended specs. Reinstalled the carbs and fired it up. Ran OK, wouldn't idle and somehow I unscrewed the idle adjuster. Carbs off again, reinstalled idle adjust, fired up right away and I took this video. I have not road tested it, that's next. I plan to ride it with the meter strapped to the bars to see if I can sense what's wrong as well as datalog to get some history. I can tell you that it feels much stronger, revs very quickly. Obviously things are different on the road under load but so far I think I am def on the right track. The dynojet kit recommends the fuel screws out 1/2 turn. Which is much less than factory. I had them out 2 turns last weekend which is why I was running so rich. <object width="640" height="360"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/1PfcfEGkXnk?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/1PfcfEGkXnk?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="360" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>
Oh and can I just say that after having a fuel injected dirtbike with a tuner, carbs blow In 30 seconds with my JD jetting tuner on the Husky I can adjust everything from the handlebars without even taking my gloves off.
They're fine when you get a working set to work with. Not so fine when they're utterly wrong! Good luck.
Fair enough.. Just thinking about how much less of a hassle my F4i is over the wifer's F3, in regards to its fueling. Spent $600 going through the carbs on the F3 (granted, with 80k miles on it) vs the F4i (sat for a year, started right up.) Things get sticky & leaky, fuel-wise on the F3 if it isn't used regularly, too. Now that she's not pregnant anymore, that shouldn't be too much of a problem, but in a multi-bike household I can appreciate one less thing to worry about.
So I finally got some work done on the jetting. I installed the Dynojet Kit to their specs. I also finished the Innovate Motorsports tuner install. Took it out today and just ran around town, hard to get any full throttle pulls in a city but I did my best. I recorded a couple sessions which I think are useful for some insight into what is going on. First off, bike runs 100x better than last time. No weird bogs, pulls hard from idle to redline. I would probably leave it as is but that's not the spirit. Bear in mind I'm a complete beginner here with Air/fuel ratios etc. Here's a screen shot of some varied throttle. The pink line is the AF ratio the red is the throttle position. There is one spike where I pinned it. It APPEARS TO ME that the bike is lean at idle, where the AFR is above 20. When it is full throttle, it looks like I am getting down into the 9's which would be a little rich. So any advice? I might be inclined to go down one step on the mains and possibly turn the fuel screws out 1/4 turn? It was still popping on decel.
I'm new to using a afr meter but I think you might have an issue with your meter/sensor or maybe something else. I dont think an engine would run at 20afr and at 9 you would almost have fuel running out the pipe Like i said im new to this so i could be and probably am very much mistaken but its maybe something to look into
Joe a local buddy said it was the meter too. I wasn't wiling to go that far but I read some other reviews of people having similar problems and getting jerked around by innovate. I'd just as soon return it through amazon.com and forget the hassle altogether. I got the bike very close yesterday with no help from the meter so I think I can probably tune the rest myself. Bike is totally transformed from two weeks ago. Other than popping on decel and being a little hard to start which should both be fixed with fuel screws, the bike runs amazing. I slapped the dirt wheels back on with a new rear and am ready for some dirt road testing
Took her out for a spin exactly as you see it. Was having a great day, bike ran great, little knock in the steering I suspect I need to take the steering apart again and make sure it's tight. Pulled off at an onramp to make a video tour and decided to check the coolant <object width="640" height="360"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/DrvYLQC3vYU?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/DrvYLQC3vYU?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="360" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object> I thought I had some better footage but all I had was road riding and I don't think that's very interesting especially since it was in a city. Anyways, the coolant thing is hopefully a waterpump and not a headgasket. Bike ran awesome other than that. I'm returning the Innovate meter, thing sucks, keeps dropping out signal, idle AFR reading is sky high and RPM readings are a joke.
Kev it's either a waterpump (hopefully), oil cooler gasket (hopefully) or headgasket (please no) I ordered all the parts for the oil cooler as someone on a CBR forum had the same issue and I remember my gaskets looking a little tired when I took mine off a couple years ago. I also ordered a waterpump on ebay, too bad they don't sell the seals
Got the parts to rebuild/reseal the oil cooler, easy job didn't even need to take the header off. Oh No Mr Bill!!! These are the oil passages on the front of the block that go into the oil filter, through the oil cooler and back into the pan. The o-rings were in decent shape but I bought the whole kit so why not Got the whole thing off, cleaned out as best I could New O rings for the block passages New o ring for the coolant into the block, and yes I did clean off that hose barb after i took the photo... A bunch of the bolts were corroded from the coolant, ran them quickly through a die and just like new I reinstalled the water pump with a new o ring so that is hopefully all the trouble areas. The gaskets at teh top of this post were terrible so I think that was the reason. I need to run a bunch of water through the system to flush out the remaining chocolate milk that is surely in the block. Then this bike is going down for a long winters nap. I will throw on the sumo forks, shock and wheels and put it in storage until spring. I have a new Ninja 650 that I am really excited to start building and my ADHD forbids me from ever finishing a project Seriously I will finish this one but I plan to rob a bunch of parts off this one to the other bike and vise versa so I'll wait until the spring and finish them both up. And Maybe the Fz1. Maybe