Sold my GSA and am back on a KLR !!!

That is a very good point, and probably the more likely cause.But either way the diaphram gasket needs to be replaced since they are both integrated on it.
Also, I was told a while back that Ims doesn't sell a rebuild kit, just the whole pump assembly.That seems rediculous.

I used to consider myself very up to date on my maint. schedule/mods and possibly even obsessive about it. Thinking I must take care of my KLR way better than all the other KLR guys out there. Reading this thread has been like stepping up to the urinals next to a horse.

GasGuy, have you checked the front suspension at full travel that it does NOT contact the tool tubes? Had a buddy once get quite a surprise when he hit a good bump after installing a tool tube and the front wheel locked up from hitting the tube! Yours look like under compression that front tire's gonna hit 'em. Easiest way to check it is put it on the centerstand and remove the fork top caps. You can then compress the front end without spring resistance fighting you. Or you could loop a ratchet strap from one fork bottom up over the steering stem and down to the other and "draw down" the suspension that way if there's too much crap around your fork caps to make that way easy. Anyway, I'd make DAMN sure your front tire isn't going to hit those tubes! Could make for a dangerous surprise!

There is plenty of room.The big tube is only 3" compared to alot of people using a 4" and the front wheel is only a 19" versus a 21".

While it was on the hoist I took a straight edge and layed it against the tire on the same angle as the forks which is the direction the wheel will travel and there is plenty of room.

I called IMS today and they are sending me a new pump under warranty.
Great customer service.

I have chosen not to add a tool tube. Tests that I, and Bill Watt of T-Bob fame have conducted, indicate that in summer, KLR oil temps can get high if the ambient temp is high and the bike is ridden hard for an extended period. Oil temps into the 260+ range. By changing or removing bash plates does affect the oil temps.

You mean due to blocking airflow from the engine ?
What kind of oil temperature difference are you talking ? 260+ vs what without the tube ?

Gotcha. The front being a 19 instead of a 21 would make a big difference.

Yes, blocking airflow. I saw temp differentials of about 10 degrees in tests between the stock bash plate and without it (I did not test a tube). Wattman has seen 270+ degrees in stock form in AZ. Adding a tube would further restrict airflow.


I went further. I added extra holes to the AL bash plate I use. I then added 16sq" of heatsink finning to the undersides of the 'sump'. This reduced the oil temps from 250 to 220 in tests at 100F ambient (60 miles at 80 mph indicated). I use a 195F water thermostat on an 08 that has better cooling..

I also made a small water/oil heat exchanger but decided on not fitting it due to the limited oil pressure and oil flow. The extra finning added met the criteria I needed.

I am probably already blocking a lot of airflow with the skidplate and HT engine guard.
The tool tubes pretty much just go in front of those,so I dont think they will block much more than what I am already.
The synthetic oil will help handle the extra heat along with frequent oil changes.

I'd guesstimate about 90% of cooling is done through radiator heat exchange. You don't have cooling fins to worry about and air flow across parts of the motor probably don't account for much cooling. As long as you're not blocking air flow to rads and your Oil Cooler (if you have one?) should be the SHIZZZ!

If you have a Rad Fan, that could help. I do know the KLR does tend to run on the HOT side for a liquid cooled, low HP single ... well ... my first gen one did anyway. No issues ... ever ... but it did heat up a few times in Mexico.

Synthetic oil is a must ... but I'd guess changes could extend out to 3 or 4K
miles, no harm done. I always LOOK and SMELL my oil for tell tail signs of over heating. You can smell cooked oil. And to me, once oil is black and no longer clear, I'm past due for an oil change. I try to never go there.

I would be interested in your comments about your 19" front tire vs. the stock 21" ... especially with a full load in sand, loose gravel or MUD. I always LOVED a 21" for such conditions ... and I can keep pace with those running a 19" on the street too. (with the right tire )

I am going to take your advice and remove the tool tubes.
I wasn't sure if I was going to keep them anyway, and I would probably just carry too much stuff in them.
Plus when I go back to a 21" knobby and start going offroad more it could be a issue.

The 19" wheel came with the bike along with a brand new Anakee 2 for it, so I am going to use it first.
I will more than likely go back to the 21" after that with a Dot knobby unless I am just doing too many road miles.
I really like the Tkc80 tires but they get expensive.

Hi Gas Guy...

I did a very similar setup for the Acerbis tank on my KLX250S (351, actually) with two tee'd lengths of tubing extending down to the bottom of the tank wings. You can see the fuel pump at the upper right behind the frame rail:



Be cautious of the Tygon tubing. It was formulated to be impervious to gasoline but not ethanol. I used it originally in my conversion. Most of the connections were very tight slip fits on barb fittings. I had an issue with the fueling system at an inopportune time, about 400 miles into a combined SS1000 and BB1500. I was able to finish but found out later that the Tygon had swelled up and one of the intake fitting/weights in one of the wings of the tank had come off and the tube had floated up.

I replaced the Tygon with Viton tubing and the problem was solved.

BTW, you can get fuel pump rebuild kits and/or pumps here:
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Fuel-Pumps-s/128.htm

The kits are about $14.

These fuel pumps are Mikuni snowmobile pumps. One model is designed for 4 cycle engines and one for 2 cycle. They both use the same rebuild kit. Both need pulsed vacuum to operate. Steady vacuum won't work.

Ron

Think again. The oil is pumped/ pressurized which generates heat. Bearings and gears meshing generate heat. Oil sprayed out from the con-rod main bearing is used to lubricate and cool the underside of the piston -lots of heat absorbed there! The minimal oil in the head/cams is closest to the cooling of the water. The oil is channeled to the crankshaft, head and both gearbox shafts and bearings generating heat. What cools it? Oil is often the forgotten step child of cooling issues.

Having measured the oil temps and doing a lot of distance work, with the motor driven hard for a long time, particularly in summer, I am happier with oil temps in the 220 range. I also have an oilhead BMW. Temps in that head have seen 350 with oil in the 270 easily despite its 2 oil coolers. I use synthetic in that due to its 'normal' operating temps. Keeping oil below 250 is fine a normal for dyno oils.

I prefer to measure the operating temps and plan accordingly. One will be surprise when you start to measure. Having said that, most operating conditions KLR's will see are not likely to have any oil heat issues. Smelling cooked oil is closing the barn after the horse has bolted!.

Ranger Ron,
Thanks for the info and links.
Thats a very impressive ride you pulled off. BB1500 on the Klx250s ???
What is that module in the lower left of the picture, it looks like a cruise control module ?
What seat do you use on the Klx for long distance ?

Clearly, my mistake on the 90% comment! Apologies ... really I do know better! Nice comments on oil and its roll in cooling ... Thanks!
I've ridden the Air/Oil Cooled DR650 since 1996 ... so I am familiar with how oil cooling works when combined with Air cooling.

The DR650 uses Suzuki's SACS system. Suzuki won dozens of road racing championships running SACS air/oil cooled motors ... they were the LAST of the big four to go to ALL liquid cooling.

Ducati adopted it later on (late 90's) Air/Oil cooled Monster, Multistradas and Classics. Read about SACS here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_Advanced_Cooling_System

Of course for Kevin Cameron fans (or Aircraft motor historians) they'll know these techniques were first used on big, inline multi cycl. aircraft. Suzuki took the concept and improved it and using modern technology ... hit it out of the park. DR650's simply do not overheat. (ask me how I know )

Thanks. I did a search on the IBA archives and found that no one had done a SS1000 or BB1500 on a KLX250S. I thought it would be a hoot to be the first one! I did my first SS1000 back in 2003 on my (then) 2001 KLR650.

On this IBA run I used Sweet Cheeks. They were amazingly comfortable. I didn't use the suggested Coke bottles, though. I rolled up some 1/2" closed cell foam for the support. I was able to "fine tune" the Sweet Cheeks that way.

Yeah, that's a Rostra electronic cruise control. I put a cruise control on a Concours I had in 2004 and vowed then to never have another street legal bike without one! I guess it's a little overkill on the KLX though.

Ron

That is a nicely designed motor.

I hope you leave the 19" on long enough to give us some comments ... and of course I'd love to hear your thoughts regarding 19 vs. 21 ... used in ALL conditions. (loaded bike, unloaded bike, Road use, Trail use, Mud, Sand et al)

Seems more knobbie tires are available in 19" ... hopefully not all as expensive as the TKC80.

I choose the TKC80 for its longevity and toughness for a trip into Mexico and Cent. America. It's not the greatest knobby in the world (when you are used to dirt bikes) but its not so bad. Nice, tough side walls and hard to puncture.

But where it impresses is it's street ability ... once you are used to it its surprising how well your bike can handle on the road. Very good for a knobbie type tire ...
even on a wet road. :eek1 (within reason) But the best part is a TKC front in mild use can last up to 7000 to 9,000 miles on a bike like a KLR, DR, XR-L, F650. Unheard of for a knobbie.

They wear really ugly from about 6,000 miles on ... and screw up road handling. But if you are someplace where NO tire is available ... you just make do and slow down. You can just keep going. The last 10% of the tire tread is very hard to totally kill off!