Hardly a 1,000 miles on the clock and already exposed for the world to see.... keep up the good work. Hopefully we'll see you on the coast in about 10 days..... from the looks of it though... probably not. Good luck at the races
The 25 ohm 10 watt resistor I mentioned earlier in this thread did seem to work to trick the computer into thinking that the evap valve was in place. I had the bike running for 5 minutes without throwing the FI light, but removing the resistor while running tripped the light. I haven't permanently fitted the resistor because I didn't want to hack the harness or risk shorting the circuit. I am currently waiting for the appropriate male connector and then I will leave it in place.
my neighbour and riding buddy removed his SAS valve from his superduke and also had the FI light blinking.So i told him to put a resistor inplace of the valve.Not the measured 20 ohms though because it will get pretty hot. i gave him a bunch of resistors to experiment with as i thought the ECU just checks for broken wiring or defective coils. It turned out that the first resistor tested(i told him to start with the higher values) is working and its value is 820 ohms! Now this one will not get hot and save you some power too.... heat production is now only 0,018 Watts! So not a big hot 20 ohm but a little 820 ohms will do. i think this value will work for the other valves too.
Suffice to say, at least in California, messing with the fuel system in any way may be grounds for warranty voiding. It also may be likely that a dealer may refuse to work on 'farkled' bikes for fear of CARB fines (at the least) and license revocation (worst case).:huh For those considering dicking with the FI, be prepared to do future work on the bike yourselves. You know, we are quickly approaching a time when hoods on cars will be locked, only to be opened by Govmunt' approved bureaucrats in white lab coats, and we'll all be required to have annual SMOG inspections...bikes too! Glad I got carbies... Please continue... Pointman
don't be jealous Pointman. you'll get your fuel injection soon enough...Carbs will be about as common as drum brakes....and all those nasty things you say about messing with the Fuel system, is'nt a carb part of the fuel system? Can't remember. I just put gas in em and ride em.
tahoeacr, any idea if your dealer cares (i.e. warranty) if you do the canisterectomy and SAS removal? Also other than the canisterectomy which I see removing for good reason, any reason to remove the SAS since the 990's don't seem to suffer from lean pop.
Doesn't KTM make SAS blanking plates for the Super Duke? I would guess that the SD FI issues are the same as the Adv. Anybody know what the SD owners do when they remove the SAS? (I've got a 950 so I haven't researched it ) Cheers
The mechanic told me about removing it long before I did. Said it would run alot better and have alot more compression braking. From the dealer standpoint I don't think they care. I can't say if it helped cause I put the akra map in at the same time. I wanted to remove it cause it's in the way for some more sensors I want to add. I have heard that these were hooked together on the factory bikes. Might try that on a dyno.
Thanks tahoeacr. I haven't dug into mine yet, just clicked over 1000mi. Longer trip coming up in September, gotta get busy! I got the SAS blanking plates from Adventurers Workshop. The 990S had it's valves checked by dealer at ~700 miles and ALL the valves were too loose, rather odd, since that means the factory set it up that way. Now that the valves are back in spec it runs a bit crisper. Have you been able to gather some good data about airtemps and fuel-air ratios and MPG on the 990? I still think 35-40mph is not that great on the 990S and that it should be cabable of better. It seems to be running rich, but I have seen very little about mapping the 990's to date, unless someone can point me to some links. I think a dyno tune is needed, but I don't think my Seattle area dealer has a dyno and probably not that many dyno shops familiar with the 990's in the States yet... TuneBoy has a kit for it now... anybody tried it? http://www.tuneboy.com.au/BuyNow/BuyNow.html
Is that 35-40mpg? I've gotten 6 tankfuls over 50mpg. Best two where in the 54+ range. The 54's were not takin real easy either. Had about a dozen 5th and 6th gear roll-ons against Racein aces 990 and 25 miles of off-road. I managed to drop my airbox temps by 50 degrees. Air/fuel ratios on the stock map were 11.5-11.8 WOT and cruising was 14.5-15.0. Egt's at WOT were in the 1350 range. Thus ends the good milage, enter Akra map. Yes, it has better throttle response and is faster and much more fun to ride. Downside is my milage dropped to 39-42mpg. I tried the idle trick and there was no change. A/F ratios leaned out at WOT to 12-12.5 range and cruising never gets any leaner than 13.0. That's were the fuel economy went. I'm going to try and get it on a dyno in the next month to compare the Akra map vs. stock. Plus maybe some more airbox stuff . Going to go back to the stock map. I wonder if I'll get a stock map that will give me the same good mpg that I had when it was stock? By the way best fuel economy is around 3,800 rpm. Once you go over 4k it drops and over 75mph seems like the wind takes too much fuel to maintain speed. I'm still fine tuning my fuel flow sensor. Last tankful it was only off by 2/10 gal. for the whole tank. Give me another month and I'll have exact flow rates per rpm.
That's great mileage on your bike! If you look on some of the 990 threads on mileage a lot of people have gotten in the 30's stock, or so it seems. You did mod your airbox, correct? I'll have to hunt for more of your posts... I haven't been tracking mine closely lately but will start to again. The 35-40 I got was during early break-in and with sloppy valves. It may have improved now. I have some FMF Q'cans due "someday" (whenever FMF gets around to it) . I'm told all I have to do is install them, idle at least 15 minutes and I'm good to go. Where do you monitor the fuel flow? I literally haven't had time to dig into the shop manual or tear the bike apart yet, or even read up on OC, if it's a direct FI or pressurized loop system. With direct FI I can see it would be easy to put a flow sensor in the line to the injectors, but in a loop system that bleeds back to the tank you'd need a 'before' and 'after' the injectors sensors I would think. Curious about that.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242160&page=4 There is a pic of it below the map sensor. It was a pain to find somewhere to mount it. Fuel line requires some straight lines with no bends before and after. Plus those tanks really fit snug against everthing. There is no return line. These flow sensors work for return lines too.
Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't 1,350 degrees extremely hot for an EGT? Isn't that time to worry about holing a piston? If I read the post correctly, it sounds like those were the temps with the stock map and exhaust/intake? That seems awefully hot for a stock setup. ...Or was that the stock map with exhaust and intake mods, that would make more sense (would be running very lean). Then again, my experience with EGT has been with 2 stroke tuning, so I could see where those 2 smokers might be more suseptible to EGT.
Two stroke tuning? Snowmobiles? Would like to pick your brain on that sometime. For four strokes that's quite acceptable. Bone stock it would run 1600 at idle when cold. That's very scary. I figure the SAS was pumpin in alot of air to fire up the cats. Just my guess. After the FMF cans I didn't see these high temps again. Egt placement also makes a difference. I put these at 6 inches from the top of the valves. The standard that I've heard is 6" from the piston. Basically, I used them to see what the factory stock temps would run. All other mods would be based off of this. So far with airbox mods and even the Akra map the egt's are staying in that range. I've got a couple of turbo 4 cylinder cars. One runs 1450 to 1530 and my evo hit 1700 at Thunderhill raceway before I lifted(that was two years ago and it's still running ). This is too hot. I think it needs a re-map. I had it mapped on a dyno before I put the egt in. I think they gave me more of a 1/4 mile kiddy tune than a old guy track tune . My diesel is 1,250 for the defuel point. They say it can go to 1500+ for short burst but due to the price of those engines I care not to proove it. I'm thinking a two-stroke would have a cooler burn because of the oil mixed in, but that's just a guess.