KLR650 Only Thread......

Mine fit right in the head also. I might recall incorrectly, but I think the sensor is smaller, but an adapter is included to make it fit.

Regarding the stock speedo, I removed all the gears, packed the spacer with grease, and put a vacuum plug over the outside. Ziptied it and it has been fine for about 8000 miles so far.

man i knew i should have looked closer at your klr when i had the chance didnt realize that you had one on your bike jettin jim

Mine is threaded right into my head... no adapter needed. It's a goood thing.

Aaah shoot.. yup yup I love it!
It's mounted in a Vapor Protector from Paul at Highway DirtBikes, using his Top clamp and Ultimate Hand guards.
Back in 2011-2012 when I was fitting the new front end setup.




Here you can see the tinted Lexan cover that I shaped up and stick on the Vapor at night (velcro) to block off the glare. I can still use all the buttons and see the indicators.

I have the Cee Bailey adjustable brackets with their sport shield. I think it is quite stable and being able to adjust the angle of the shield is fabulous.
It has an aluminum plate that goes where the original shield was and the brackets are on each side of that.

Not to but maybe this will help clear things up.....



Trailtech housing and stock OE sensor....












Threads right in, no adapters .....














TT could have changed parts over the years, or? Who knows, just thought I'd show what worked for me. I do know that of all the Vapors installed on KLR's, no two are alike!






Hey Jettn Jim, what radiator are you running there?







.

Hey Flesh... it's a Myler.

2whlrider:

Thanks for replying to my post. Does it vibrate? How does it do on bumps or off road? I certainly like the looks of it; although, I am a bit apprehensive to how it may perform with a bit of extra weight on the cowling. Thanks for your insight.

Best regards

I ride my KLR off road a lot and not just gravel roads, but some quite gnarly stuff. i'm not usually watching the shield much when riding the rough stuff so don't know how much it moves around. I'm sure it moves somewhat but all I can say is none of the mounting brackets or the shield itself have broken or come loose.
The shields they sell are quite thick and beefy.

+1 to them being tough. I ditched mine into a tree yesterday and it didn't even Bend

Either way, I have an accurate temp reading now, even if I did put it into the coolant line.

I have my adjustments set to this:

-Shift light: 5300rpm
-Redline light: 7000rpm
-Temp warning light: 215*F (same temp the fan kicks on- lets me know fan is on)
-Temp danger light: 260*F, I'm thinking about lowering it to 240*F.

Thoughts?

Yaaa 230F -240F Sounds gooood. I doubt you'll ever see 240 out there in that line. I've never seen it at the head.

I have used a t-bob with a 195 thermostat since Dec 2007 on my 2008 and now 50+ K miles with it. It has worked flawlessly. As reported elsewhere, last month I did an Iron Butt Saddle Sore 1000. At the most, over the years, hard on the throttle in high ambient temps I have seen the temp gauge move about 1/8" off the 195 mark.

However, going through Palm Springs CA last month, at a true 75-78mph, slight tail wind and 108.5 ambient temp the temp gauge was reading close to 240. The fan had not come on. I have a separate flashing led that comes on and shows me if it does. Once out of that hot area it was back down to 195-200. The temp therefore at the exit from the radiator was still below the 215 degrees. The head temp is what the gauge reads.

My experience has been the same on my GenII. At temps over 110F and speeds over 80mph the temp will really climb on my Gen1. Mine will often sit just below the red zone under those conditions. If I reach down and help scoop air into the radiator it will quickly drop temps a couple needle widths. Mine has never puked water at those temps so I don't worry about it anymore...just twist the throttle and go. I'll probably puke before the bike does at those conditions....lol

^Do you know that it's not puking fluid for fact? The bikes DO have an overflow bottle that accumulates the overflowing coolant, and sends it right back in when it's needed... My bottle broke so I just have the overflow tube running down the downtube and after a casual ride home I can clearly see some coolant has leaked out, temps never got above 220.

Ive never had to add fluid in 50K miles...I'd call that fact. Your resv container is in place for a reason...fluid is entering/exiting all the time.

+1

The overflow bottle accommodates the expansion of the coolant in the radiator initially and then as it cools, allows that to be pulled back into the radiator. When checking the cap seal, check/clean the seals for both direction.

Thanks again, I think I'm going to have to get one. With 2 positive remarks, I don't think I can go wrong.

Hi folks,
A nearby dealer has a 2009 with 3,000 miles for $3,900 + tax/title. Is that a decent deal for this time of year or should I keep looking? I see new 2013/4's on cycletrader for around $5,000 but I don't know what fees might be added. Am I better off going new with a warranty? Waiting for a better deal on craigslist? It seems like people locally want between 3,500 - 5,000 for anything recent.

Thanks

that seems a bit high . . . . . but, if the bike is all you want, and go for it, I say.

I bought a 05 for 1500 a couple of years ago, but it took months of looking to find one at that price . . . .

as for new vs used, that's between you and your banker . . . I WILL say, if you can get a 14 for 5K out the door, grab it.

Thanks for the input. I thought it was a bit high for a five year-old bike too but it's in line with what others are asking for similar bikes on cycletrader.