Any Honda Dominator NX650 owners out there ?

Honda-bond & Three-bond are good, I think they're actually the same stuff... They peal off nicely, pretty easy stuff to clean up.. (unlike a lot of gasket sealants)

I avoid high temp silicon sealants... The excess always seems to peel off inside the engine... I always cringe when I find slithers of it in oil strainer.... It cant be good when bits make their way through the oil passages and bearings...

With crank case cover gaskets I like to use a decent sealant like Honda-bond on the cover side, and nothing on the crankcase side... The gasket stays glued to the cover and they tend survive a few removals with no issues...

:)

Are your problems fixed?

I think so!
I replaced the pulse generator and it fired right up.
I rode it to work this morning and it did just fine.
A little bit more time on it will tell more

Sweet. I forget, what were the problems you were having?

Well the bike had been running fine.
Then one day had a hard time starting but fired up after charging battery
Took it on a nice long ride in the dirt, starting and stopping on purpose several times
Next day it would not start
Checked and there was no spark
Replaced ignition coil, plug and plug wire
Still no spark
Replaced pulse generator and it fired right up!

Rejetted the carb. Best mod going. Bike runs soooo much better. Up one size main and idle. First time the bike got 50 mpg. While I was at that the PAIR system went bye-bye. It was a smog weekend, as the R80RT system came off also.

Not bad weather for Feb.

One size up on the main an "idle"? Are you meaning main and slow jet? Exactly what are the jet sizes, I am in the middle of such a project.

If anyone is looking for a original NX fuel tank that is in very useable condition with one dent send me a PM. Inside is near flawless.

Thanks.

I'm really digging that front fender you've got there. I always thought that this bike would look good with a high fender -- what did you use and is that black (or did you paint it)? And that windscreen -- also nice. Off the shelf? Home-made? Do tell. More pics please. Thanks!

Most large bore XR fenders will mount to the NX lower clamp. I believe the holes are already drilled and tapped. There may be some brake line interference, so that's something to check on. Also, some fenders will need the back trimmed a couple inches so they don't rub on the frame. I think the XRL fender needs trimming. If I remember correctly, the XL600R fender is the easiest to fit (no trimming required)

UFO fender in black ABS. Matches the Barkbuster hand guards. Fender was cheapest one on BikeBandit! Some short spacers between it and steering stem, which is already tapped. Probably same part no as XRL? Spacers to clear the brake lines.

MSR windscreen. Helps a little. I guess they've got one now that is another 4 in taller?

It's very close, but the XRL has 43mm forks and the NX has 41 (I'm pretty sure at least).

Ohhhhh the TORTURE!!!

New Pulse Generator last Sunday (see post 2131)
- Bike started fine Sunday night several times but was not ridden
- Bike started right away Monday morning, rode to work. Started in the afternoon and rode home.
- Friday, today, bike started good this morning, rode to work. Started and rode home for lunch. 40 minutes later the bike would not start, drove the truck back to work!

What in the world is going on!!!!

Thanks
Brian

I don't know if you have replaced the CDI or not?
Check all the plugs have good contact, especially the ones on the left side of the frame under the tank.
These can wear and give intermittant electrical problems.
Other than that CDI, I replaced mine with an Ignitech unit and it has started and run flawlessly since.

Hi gang!

Can someone tell me where the C.D.I. unit is located?

The service manual indicates that is is located under or as part of the ignition switch unit (where you put the key).
What I see is a round shaped unit under the ignition switch. Is this it?

Thanks
Brian!

Right hand side of the headlight, it's the larger black box....




Good Luck :)

Edit:
The CDI is a common issue, some say giving it a decent tap on the back with something like a screwdriver handle can get them going again, temporarily..

CDI repair info:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684756

www.cyclecentralpowersports.com seem to do them at a reasonable price:
MODULE, IGN CONT
30410-MN9-791
$92.51

:)

Awesome FLICKIT!

Thank you!!

Idle jet often synonymous with slow jet, but you are correct I think in this case the SM calls it slow. The only two that are screwed in. Don't have the SM at hand, but up one size from stock. The number increases are larger than one, but the next size larger (richer). The bike is super lean. Jets R Us has good resource listing. Also earlier posts in this thread have jetting experiences.

I'm in the process of giving the old girl a bit of a rebuild ready for a ride around Australia later in the year... It was using a fair bit of oil....

I posted some pics in the XRL thread to get some opinions, I might as well post them here also for anyone that's interested...

It seems a previous owner has replaced the cam-chain, rings, and given it a rough hone at some stage....





































Patent pending valve spring remover :huh (someone borrowed my real one years ago and I never saw it again)














I'm thinking the cam and rockers will be ok, they seem unchanged since I had the valve cover off 7000km ago...

There seems to be a little slop in the valve guides so I'm expecting to have to replace them..

Valve stem diameter: (mm)
IN Standard = 6.575 - 6.590 .. Service Limit = 6.56 ... Mine = 6.578
EX Standard = 6.565 - 6.575 .. Service limit = 6.55 ... Mine = 6.552 (right valve at the narrowest bottom of the guide area (the left is a little bigger at 6.565)

The Exhaust valves are pretty close to the service limit, I'll see what the machine shop say, I'll probably replace them...

I'll probably do a re-bore, oversize piston/rings, piston pin/clips, valve guides and maybe valves... I'll pull the clutch and oil pump apart over the next couple of days and measure/inspect them... I might replace the seals and thrust washer in the oil pump and replace the oil seal on the end of the crank...

Comments and suggestions welcomed.. Can anyone think of anything else I should be looking at while it's all in bits?

Thanks

Those bearing surfaces look really scored. I know some times photos make things look worse than they are. Can you feel those groves when you run your hand over them? Here is the US there is a company that will weld them up and machine them back down for, I think, $150. Maybe there's a similar company on your part of the planet?