Yer preachin to the choir here, Byron. Looks like you are making great headway on the motor; love that rotella.
I doubt you will be able to find a solution with a scotts or GPR damper. They are designed to be used with 1 1/8 bars and Easton is the only manufacturer that makes those goofy "obese bars" (they're not just fat). Best bet is to sell them and grab a standard 1 1/8th bar you like. I perfer a low bend because of the extra height of the damper. You might have luck with a damper that mounts to the triple out in front of the bike. http://www.werproducts.net/WER-Steering-Damper.html
I had that happen too, can't remember what the problem was, though. One of the components is just probably out of alignment.
If it were me, I'd go option 1 no question. If you remove the PCV, your reliability could/would be worse since the bike has the air intake mod and without the PCV would run lean. If anything, the PCV and auto tune will improve the reliability and improve mpg by keeping much better control of the AFR. The power gained from the PCV does not come at the cost of reliability, rather it comes at the cost of more CO and hydrocarbons in the emissions; which you probably don't care about since you don't have to pass a smog test with it.
Oh, it's become blindingly obvious. The locating tab on the housing is there. The hole to locate is not.
Ok I looked up righteous stunt clutch lever. I'm not understanding how this would help?? My problem is there seem to be no adjustment in the clutch. As you are letting out the clutch there seem to me no friction and then the clutch catches nothing in between. Not sure I'm explaining it correctly. But I was think the G2 Dirt Tamer or something like that. Fred
The clutch has a different pivot point and pulls the cable in a different way so it gives a larger range of engagement. Trust me it will change it completely. I got the middle size righteous one and it's a perfect two finger pull.
Yes. Has the same effect as the stunt lever has Except mine was free. I Added .400" to the oal Hard to beat One/two finger shifts for free, and if I Break a lever it's only $12 for a replacement
How does that shaft come out of the engine? On my DR, the arm is a separate piece, splined on the end. Warning: DR650 photo
Two things, first is the cable holder sits in a groove on the shaft Second, remover clutch cover and loosen bolts (16) to relieve spring pressure So push rod (20) will clear the indent in the shaft Note: cable holder will need to be tweaked aiming sheath toward the end of the rod so there's no side pressure on the cable in order to get butter smooth cable operation.