Hey guys, happy to finally be joining you on this site. (I've been lurking for 5 years). I'm about to buy my first helmet and I wanted to run a few things by you. I live in Colorado and will be riding my Drz 400 on and off road throughout the year. Unless it gets too cold and snowy. I'll be avoiding highways for now as I am still a n00b. I'm looking to buy the safest helmet I can possibly buy. Here is the information I've come across so far: - the only good "consumer reports style" test I have seen was that article from Motorcycling magazine. "Blowing the Lid Off" http://www.westcoastweasels.com/archives/PDF/Blowing_the_Lid_Off.pdf - that article led me to believe that for basic adventure riding at speeds less than 80mph an inexpensive polycarbonite helmet would transfer the least amount of damaging G's to my head - I believe this is one of the safest helmets that they tested: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/67/905/10981/ITEM/Z1R-Phantom-Solid-Helmet.aspx - this helmet with new suspension technology is supposed to also have lower amounts of G forces to the head in a crash. Price is $750. Motocross version only. http://www.6dhelmets.com/ - As many people have mentioned in numerous posts, getting a helmet that fits well is crucial. I believe "squish your face" tight is what I should be shooting for. Let me know if there is anything I'm missing. Thanks!
A little more info would be helpful. Is cost a major factor? What kind of bike? Interstate or country roads? Off road? Warm weather or 4 season? Cheap helmets are loud. I had a Joe Rocket and could not stand the noise. I have an Icon now which is 100 time better, noise is only an issue with a strong head wind.
@Tee2 - thanks and good call. I have updated the orig post with some more info. I am looking for the safest helmet that I can buy.
The most important item in a helmet is that it must FIT. No just be the correct size but it must be comfortable. After that comes what features you are looking for. If it does not fit well it will be uncomfortable very quickly. Just my thoughts. Russ
+1. I was always told fit, fit, fit, in that order. After that it is just a matter of what you expect from a helmet. Some people want D-rigns, others ratchets. Some people do not care that the liner feels like sand paper, others want the liner to massage their scalp. Make sure it fits, first, then figure out what you need.
Here is the link to helmet fitting that most people reference: http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-helmets/motorcycle-helmet-shapes.htm What is not clear - is how to determine your head shape. Also, (IMO) the head shape descriptors are not absolute. It turns out you have to try out helmets to see which one fits, then (possibly) use the charts to cross reference other helmets that (should) fit. I went to a local shop and tried on some helmets after using the above guide. Some helmets that should have fit (i.e. were in the same category of head shape) didn't and I ended up with a HJC16 as one that fit. Unfortunately, trying on helmets was the only way I could figure out which ones fit and the cross-reference charts did not work for me. Good luck!
GOTO Performance Cycle on Broadway in Denver. Great Prices and massive selection. Buy what fits your head comfortably, but the guys there will totally help you determine fit if you need help.
Take the cheek pads out of the helmet when you try it on. They usually unsnap easily, if they don't that's probably a fairly cheap helmet. Then you can put the helmet on and judge it's fit based on how well it fits your head and not on how it's smashing your cheeks in. Cheek pads are "tuneable" meaning you can usually buy thicker or thinner ones to fine tune the fit. But if the fit at the top of your head is not good, there isn't much you can do about it. I recently bought a Bell that, with the 5mm thinner cheek pads, is the most comfortable helmet I've ever had.
as others have said, fit . . . . (some manufacturers don't sell cheek pads that are different sizes, so be careful there) . . . . once you have a fit, you add featuers (modular, internal sun shade, pic loc visor venting) and price to get wjhat you desire and need . . . . I wouldn't get too hung up on shell matierals if I were you -- you could be wearing the most expensive helmet o teh planat, at under your arbitrarily choses speek of 80mph, and hit something head on . . . . no helmet will be of much assistance in that scenario . . . .
I went through 3-4 helmets before picking up a Scorpion EXO400 if your head is a good fit an excellent bang for the buck. Replaceable, washable liners, great shields. The EXO700 has the same fit, liners, shields, etc but vents better for summer but a little noisier. Both in the sale racks as they are being discontinued so there are bargains to be had.
If you're riding off road you either want a DS helmet like the Shoei Hornet DS or the Arai XD4, or you'll want to get a street helmet and another dedicated off-road helmet. The DS and dirtbike helmets have much better airflow, visors, and can accommodate goggles - all of which is important in the dirt. And personally I would not put too much weight on magazines and advertising. Start with helmets produced by a reputable manufacturer and then find something that fits well and has the features you want. Currently my street helmet is a Shoei Hornet and my MX helmet is a carbon O'Neil. The O'Neil is near the end of it's lifespan and the replacement will be one of the new generation superlight helmets; probably a Suomy.
Plan to spend a lot of time trying on helmets, and possibly over more than one session. When you have a couple of candidates narrowed down, wear the helmets around the shop for at least 15 or 20 minutes. (longer if you and the shop have the time.)
Personally I'd stick with the larger Quality companies out there (Shoei, Arai, Schuberth etc.). SNELL and DOT ratings certainly help. If you really want to maximize safety consider a Neck Brace (and or car). Myself, I have a couple of Shoei Hornets for dual sporting (One dedicated to dirt after a few "drops"), and Shuberth C3 for road work. For fit, if you bite you cheeks when you chew gum you are about right. Also wear it for 10 minutes or so in the store and see how much of a headache you get. No matter how much you like/want the helmet if it doesn't fit your head right, try a different one. Poor fitting helmets are waste of time.
I would really suggest finding a good brick and mortar store that is willing to work with you and find the right fit. You will pay a little more, but in the long run, it is well worth it. Fit is so subjective that you really need to be able to try them. Walk around the store for 30 minutes with the helmet on. If they allow a test ride, do it. Take the cheek pad thing seriously too. I had a habit of evaluating helmet fit based on how much my cheeks got mushed. That meant I kept buying helmets that were too big and would shift down when I didn't want it. If you can find an Arai dealer, they often know more about head shape and fit than others. Arai helmets are not cheap but they are the only company that openly discusses head shape in their helmet line. They also have easy to change cheek pads. Some dealers will swap them out on a new helmet for free. This is another reason to stick with a brick and mortar store rather than on-line. Good luck. PS... and spend a lot of time reading at www.webbikeworld.com.
Shop when you have a lot of time. Try a bunch of helmets on and note differences in pressure on your noggin. When you have it narrowed down to 2 or 3 helmets, put one on and wear it around the store for half an hour, then take it off in front of a mirror. Is your forehead red? Too tight there. Is it a relief somewhere else to have the helmet off? Try another one. Like was previously said, the cheek pads can distract, you are really looking for how it fits the bony parts, Napoleon One reason that fit is critical is that an impact hits the outside shell first. If there's too much space the liner then impacts your noggin instead of absorbing the outside impact and dampening it. So you want as snug as you can get without being too snug. And there is nothing but to try them until one rings the bell. You'll know when it's right, it'll disappear up there, yet you won't be able to wag the helmet back and forth without your head moving. Cycle Gear has a longer return policy, you can try a helmet on at home and return it if it's like-new. When I bought my Shoei from CG I wore my X11 around the house for hours, when it "disappeared" I knew it was keeper. Watch at CG for old build-dates, esp on clearance helmets. A more recent build date is better.
Test fit in a real store, don't order online for your first one. As mentioned try it on for a while. Pay attention to any spots that feel like there is more pressure on that particular spot. Your forehead, top of the head, or ears shouldn't feel like they have any more pressure on them than any other part. A helmet should 'pop' on, a tiny bit of work to get over your ears and then just kinda 'pop' into place. It should not be hard or any sort of uncomfortable to initially get on, it also should not just fall onto your head. You should be able to shake your head and have the helmet 'keep up' with you. Do the universal 'no-no' head shake gesture The helmet should not feel loose if you do this.
Clify & snoman have it right. As do the others who note fit is key. More important than specs. I will never buy a helmet mail-order. Find a good shop with informed staff to fit you correctly. Webbikeworld is an awesome resource, to understand what is out there, But once you hit the store, much of it goes out the window. My first helmet after returning from a long absence from 2 wheels took me 2 weekends in 3 stores to find the one. Day 1 my face was so sore, I quit, and came back the next weekend. My Shoei TZ-R is great, but you might hate it. Take time and get it right.
Just to reinforce this point, I went to my local dealer to buy an Arai XD4 over the weekend. The guy at the counter suggested taking it out for a ride before I bought. Glad I did. All was perfect until I hit the interstate and the speedo hit 75 MPH. At that point, there was a high frequency vibration. It was very slight and I couldn't even feel it in my head. I could however, see it. It caused everything to go slightly blurry. I can't call it buffeting since I think that implies moving your head around. This was just a minor but very distinct vibration caused by the peak. It went away when I touched the peak or when I slowed below 70. Were I not a commuter, I might not ever notice. The point is, my dealer saved me from making a big and costly mistake. You don't get that from an on-line source.
