The Africa Twin XRV650 & XRV750 thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by iswoolley, Aug 23, 2004.

  1. atgreg

    atgreg Africatwinarama

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    thanks for all the info guys, will digest and let you know how I go
  2. atgreg

    atgreg Africatwinarama

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    @ dreamer , good idea about replacing all the plugs , which connectors did you buy ??

    wonder if a complete new wiring harness is still available , mmm dread the price

    GSPD , those kits look good but he doesnt have any current listing

    I think cutting the plug & socket out for the starter and wiring in a seperate fuse holder will be the way to go
  3. GSPD750

    GSPD750 Adventurer

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    Your right...I don't see those Mosfets on his site. That was an old link. Maybe shoot him a pm.
    Start relays should be sourced from anywhere I would imagine....such as.

    http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/SR11.html

    Once you get your mitts on a Mosfet whether it be a new one or from another bike (try your local breakers) then pm Jim at Eastern Beaver. He will set you up and recommend to you what you will need for a harness and connectors. He also rides an AT. :evil
  4. GSPD750

    GSPD750 Adventurer

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    Cut n' pasted from jasonmotoelectrix. It appears the FHO12AA has been replaced by the FH020AA. :deal
    I believe the FH008 will also work.

    <TABLE style="WIDTH: 100%"><TBODY><TR><TD class=vi-inl-pad-bot colSpan=3>SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER KIT REPLACES FH012AA

    See original listing
    </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 15%" vAlign=top rowSpan=9><CENTER>[​IMG]</CENTER>

    Image not available



    [​IMG]

    </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 16.8%" class=vi-it-row vAlign=top align=right>Item condition:</TD><TD>New</TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 16.8%" class=vi-it-row vAlign=top align=right>Ended:</TD><TD>Apr 29, 201207:52:49 PDT</TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 16.8%" class=vi-it-prow vAlign=top align=right>Sold For:</TD><TD>US $129.95 [ 22 sold ]</TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 16.8%" class=vi-it-row vAlign=top align=right>Shipping:</TD><TD>FREE USPS Priority Mail
    </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 16.8%" class=vi-it-row vAlign=top align=right>Item location:</TD><TD>Joplin, Missouri, United States</TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 16.8%" class=vi-it-prow vAlign=top align=right>Seller:</TD><TD>Member id jasonmotoelectrix ( Feedback Score Of 4679[​IMG]) [​IMG] |Seller's other items
    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
  5. Spencer54

    Spencer54 Adventurer

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    40
    Just joined the Africa twin club with an RD07a

    Is there anywhere that makes stainless/alternate fastners for the airbox cover etc as mine are shot and if there being replaced I might as well upgrade?
  6. GSPD750

    GSPD750 Adventurer

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    I don't think so...they are quite Honda specific in size due to them being a shouldered fastener. In fact the front ones are different in size to the rear as you may already know. Just order from Honda....still cheaper (probably not by much) than turning them out on a lathe. :D

    Oh...and welcome to the club.
  7. Spencer54

    Spencer54 Adventurer

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    Yeah thats what I'm hearing from the XRV forum - but I was ever hopeful that something fancy was available.
    I suppose and adv bike needs to be simple and a Phillips screwdriver is everywhere.

    So far I've done 50 miles in absolute shite weather and been suitably impressed by it, with 41K miles on it its still really tight.
  8. @dreamer

    @dreamer Been here awhile

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    Spencer54, when I got my bike I did a complete rebuild on it and one of the things that I did was to replace all of the bolts, nuts and washers. I did this with stainless steel Allen bolts, washers and nylock nuts, my thought on this was that I could have an Allen wrench set in my bike kit and it would be really small as well as an almost one size fits all set up as most of the Allen bolts are 6mm on the bike which means you would need a #5 Allen bit and so on, the most common sizes are 4, 5, 6 and 8. what i actually did was to get a "T" handle ratchet from McMaster Carr that accepts the Allen bits, small kit and it fits in my tool box in the left rear body panel.

    AT Greg, go to Jim's site http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/products.html and look at his R/R kits, he has them for the FH008 all the way thru to the FH014. Just to tell you what I did was to get the FH008 R/R (E-Bay) as it matches the mounting holes on the frame and then Jim's R/R kit wired directly to the battery. As far as the connectors go I went with the sealed connectors "Sumatomo MT series". As far as getting a new wiring harness I wouldn't, from what I saw on my bike (also 22 yrs old) the wires were in great shape (except for the butchery mostly around the harnesses extremities like turn signal wires) it was just the connectors that I didnt want to have an issue with so I got the MT series connectors. They come in single pin all the way up to six pin as there are some nine pin connectors on the bike so what I did was use a three and a six pin. Another suggestion and this is what I did, was I took the time to solder every pin on, it really makes a super strong and reliable connection,hope this helps.

    Keith
  9. dennism

    dennism dennism

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    FWIW, I bought a Shindegen FH020AA kit from jasonmotoelectric.com in Joplin, MO and am well pleased with his service and the product I got. You should note that the fuse holder was not supplied, but I didn't care as I already had a couple of them.

    The FH020 bolts right in place of the OEM regulator on my RD07A. I found the main feed from regulator to battery had apparently been hot at some time as the connector in the main fuse housing was discoloured, and had melted its plastic cover a little. Not enough to be a problem now, but a definite sign of trouble to come, so I added a separate wire and fuse from regulator to battery as Jason recommended..

    While I'm at it I'm going to modify the circuit by adding a main relay at the fuse panel, wiring it to operate from the wire returning from the ignition swiitch and with a direct 30 amp fused connection to the battery. This way, when the
    ignition switch is turned on the relay will operate and connect the battery feed to the fuse panel, and the ignition switch will only need to carry enough current to operate the relay..

    Maybe overkill, but I will feel better. :D
  10. MakS

    MakS Adventurer

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    Mosсow
    I want to buy a fork intended to KTM 990 with 265mm stroke.
  11. Stormforce8

    Stormforce8 Farkle Tart

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    Both the 950 and 990 Adventure S models have a 265mm stroke.

    The standard 950 Adventure has a 230mm stroke, and the standard 990 Adventure has a 210mm stroke.
  12. MakS

    MakS Adventurer

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    Mosсow
    I would like to buy a 265 mm.
  13. @dreamer

    @dreamer Been here awhile

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    Stormforce, where did the 18" Excel wheels and spokes go on your site, also any word on the crash bars for the RD04? I've been saving my pennies and I'm already over $1000 just waiting for a few more pennies before I place an order and those two items are high on my list as well as the 21" Excel and spokes for the front and just about everything else you carry.

    Keith
  14. Stormforce8

    Stormforce8 Farkle Tart

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    Hey Keith

    I'm afraid the UK is out of stock on the 18" x 2.5" x 32 spoke Excel rims - the last one went to a Finnish inmate on here :evil
    I could sell 'em by the bucketload if we could get hold of them. I'm waiting to hear if Japan has any in their production schedule in the near future, but don't hold your breath.:becca
    Plenty of Excel 21" & 17" rims left though :D

    If you're desperate for an 18" rim, I can probably lay my hands on a Morad 18" x 2.5" x 32 spoke.:wink:

    The Rugged Roads Crashbars for the RD03 / RD04 will be available by the end of this month, both in a Black and a White finish - I'll drop a post in here and on the XRV Forum when they're in stock - meanwhile here's the mock up of what they look like on the RD04:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  15. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Well Done !

    Any target price? International shipping?

    I think I can adapt these to my Transalp framed conversions
  16. Stormforce8

    Stormforce8 Farkle Tart

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    Pricing is aimed at being the same as the RD07/07A ones :D -

    International shipping? - of course :D

    We are moving onto Transalp XL650V bars after the RD03/RD04 bars have completed manufacturing :evil just have to get together with a few of the hardcore Transalp Brotherhood here in the UK to see what works, what doesn't, what's good, etc and get some input from those who'll be using them before we nail down a final design.:wink:
  17. Squily

    Squily Squily

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    Stormforce: Do you make the crash bars for RD07 to fit the 'fat' tank?
  18. farcall

    farcall Long timer

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    I asked that question over at XRV.rog yesterday... answer is no. Pity!

    Which fat tank have you got? I'm considering whether to get one myself. Any tips, suggestions or recommendations?
  19. Squily

    Squily Squily

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    I've got the Touratech. As far as tips: consider carefully. In some ways, it's a one-way street. My situation requires 600km+ fuel range, and it works for me, but it's a comprimise. I can still run 2x ten litre jerry cans which will give me about a 1000km range if needed.

    Pros:
    1. Fuel-range
    2. Relatively compact (compared to some other solutions)
    3. Plastic tank- don't dent when you drop the bike
    Cons:
    1. Very expensive- I got mine second had for a good price and would not have paid the price of a new one. And it's unpainted- you'll need to spend some more mula
    2. More top heavy: Riding and picking the bike up
    3. It's fat and you tend to spread your legs a bit more
    4. If you don't have upgraded front suspension, you'll need it
    5. More fuel = more weight = more tiring to ride in the tight technical stuff and sand
    6. Difficult to get the last few litres out of the tank. you can here it sloshing (and accoring to my calcs, it must have been close to 5l), but every time you run down-hill, you run 'out of fuel'
    7. If you run after market fairings, (such as Boana), they won't fit without modification- that includes the dashboard, etc.
    8. Hard to find items such as crashbars and very limited range
    9. Lot more weight on the front wheel- harder to keep the nose up off-road and on sand

    Like I said- it's a compromise. I need the range. If I had to do it over again, I think I'd rather invest it pannier/rear-seat tanks. But that said, that's my next project. That way I won;t have to use the jerry cans no more.
  20. farcall

    farcall Long timer

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    Thanks. Some really good points to consider. I really appreciate the time and thought you've put in the reply.

    I'm using my DR to get the 'desert dunes' (eg most of Len Beadell's desert highways and east Pilbara) rides out of my system over the next couple of years. I rarely get to coastal areas these days... a couple of millenia ago I spent my youth visiting Esperance & Albany to tear up the coastal tracks and beaches.

    Anyway, I'm kinda punting that the AT will spell the end of my GSA and become the 'new' dirt highway (eg Gibb River Rd, Tanami, Gt Central, Plenty, Birdsville etc etc) bike in my shed. If the GSA does go, it releases cash to spend on the AT :deal, but I'll ride the AT stock for a while just to be sure it suits me.

    The 43 litres from the TT would ultimately be perfect for me. I'm sort of familiar with the big weights up front because my DR has the safari tank fitted (current capacity 36 litres and growing as it ever so slightly changes shape over time) and of course the 33 litres on the GSA. I could only wish to be lucky enough to pick up a 2nd hand TT so I'm fully expecting to pay the full price. TT also make some crash bars for their tank. More moolah. Tis disappointing to read about not getting the last few litres out the TT tank.

    The rear tanks appeal, but I'm guessing they'll mess around with the mounting of whichever pannier racks I choose. Plus, they cost more than the TT tank! Anyway, I lean towards balancing the weight of extra fuel capacity up front against the luggage/water weight over the back wheel.

    Currently researching which slip on to get for the AT. Mivv is in the lead at the moment but still plenty to go.