DR650SE Index Topic #12- ENGINE/CHAINS & SPROCKETS

On to the drivetrain- engine, transmission, chains and sprockets.

Everyone has an opinion about motor oil, of course , but the DR does seem to like certain kinds of oil over others.
And the topic of sprockets and chains comes up often as well.

What works for you?

MAINTENANCE
-LUBRICATION
-IGNITION/SPARKPLUGS
-FILTERS

ENGINE UPGRADES
-OVERSIZE PISTONS
-CAMSHAFTS

DRIVELINE
-TRANSMISSION
-SWAPPING SPROCKETS
-520 VS 525
-CLEANING/LUBRICATION
-CHAIN TOOLS

i tried a few oil even the highly recomended rotella diesel oil (synth & regular) looking for something that did not clunk in 1st and shifted well elsewhere.

i once again came back to what i've found to be the best oil in every bike i've ever owned:
Redline 10w-40 ester (type 5) synthetic oil http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=109&pcid=21

for me it was the only 1 not to clunk and worth the $.
bike shifts like butter.

i run ngk iridium plugs from TPI.
have found iridiums work much better than copper plugs but they cost more.

i run 525 chain w/ 14 front sprocket and stock rear. works great everywhere.
next time around i'll go w/ 15 front and add 3 to rear for the same gearing but longer chain life.

I run 10w40 or 15w40 oils, not picky on brand. I've been trying the common diesel oils. Using Delo in there right now. Delvac was on sale for $9 per gallon so I stocked up. I have diesel trucks too. I didn't know a oil could get rid of the first gear clunk. I can't tell any thing between a dino moto 10w40 and a dino 15w40 diesel oil as far as shifting goes. The 5w40 diesel oil shifts to hard for me, I only tried it once in both of my bikes. The FJR didn't like the stuff either.

I haven't had any issues with TwinAir filters and thats what I have in the DR with the PJ1 filter oil and cleaner. I use the standard NGK plugs. The magnetic oil drain plug seems to do its job well. After reading all the chain threads I'm still sticking to a 525 DID X ring and the 14/15 CS with the stock rear sprocket. I use Procycles CS retainer.

I do use a chain oiler, a simple TUTORO. So far so good, I like the manual operation. I don't run it all the time and drown the bike with oil. Just enough to oil the chain and no more. Turn it off well before hitting dirt etc.. Works for me. I used chain wax before and didn't like the build up and cleaning.

Upper chain roller was removed when the bike was new, still running the stock lower one, I should change it soon now that I'm riding the DR as my main bike...

Oil...

I use Shell Rotella conventional. I avoid synthetics in my DR for two reasons:

First, there have complaints of notchy shifting with some synthetic oil that were "cured" by switching to dino.

Second, my DR is an '01, and still has the leak prone early base gasket. Mine doesn't leak. Since synthetic oil molecules are smaller, they can weep past gaskets that conventional oil can't. It was a problem on older bikes when synthetics became widely available. Probably irrational of me, but I'd rather not take the chance...

-LUBRICATION
Mobil One "extended" 10-W40 synthetic car oil - 33K miles.

-IGNITION/SPARKPLUGS
NGK Iridium spark plugs. Denso really good too but hard to find cheap.
NGK's are about $10 ea. Denso double that.

-FILTERS
I've used Twin-Air filters from the beginning. Very good, breath well but do wear out in 3 years ... so hang onto stock one.


-OVERSIZE PISTONS - Stock
-CAMSHAFTS - Stock

DRIVELINE
-SWAPPING SPROCKETS
-520 VS 525
-CLEANING/LUBRICATION
-CHAIN TOOLS

I'm a bit of a chain/sprockets nut. Most don't care that much. On long trips out of the country a long lasting chain/sprocket set really helps. One less thing to worry about.

I'm a fan of DID X-ring chains. I just replaced my first DID 525 VM-2 X-ring chain ... it lasted 22,000 miles. One trick I learned to extend chain life is to change out the countershaft sprocket at about 10,000 miles. You hear all kinds of hype around sprockets. As dirt rider (former AMA Enduro racer) I've tried many sprockets, running 5 or 6 bikes you get a chance to see what works. I get the best results from Suzuki sprockets on my DR650. They are cheap and last well. Super hard sprockets are expensive and will EAT UP YOUR NEW CHAIN IN 10,000 MILES ... buyer beware.

If you want to convert to a 520 system, that's fine. A 520 system gives you more sprocket choices. Good if you ride a lot of dirt and need much lower gearing. Only two drawbacks are that a 520 chain will not last as long as a
525. 2nd is that the 520 does not come in a VM quality chain. But DID do make a V Xring chain which quite good ... but in the end won't match the VM-2 525. So make your choice.

I use an inexpensive Chinese chain cutting tool and an RK peening tool to fit the rivet link on the new chain. On trips I bring only a spare master link, no other chain tools. They are that reliable. I also carry TWO spare countershaft sprockets: A stock 15T and a JT 14T (Thailand) for off road where I need slightly lower gearing. But for more serious off road lower gearing is certainly desirable.

I clean with WD40 and use Motorex Synthetic off road chain lube. On the road I use plain 90 wt. gear oil. I carry rags (in zip-lock bags)to clean with the WD40.
While traveling I clean the chain, wheel and swingarm everyday. I've done this for the last 250,000 miles ... works well. Never over oil your chain. Won't help, just makes a mess.

I know NGK is the "Go Too" but the P/N for Denso Iridium's from the Denso site is #IU31

(Denso's have been a personal preference of mine because of my experience with road racing)

I like and use Twin Air filters.

Haven't found much difference in oils, I'll use any dino one as long as it's JASO MA spec.

While it is true that a 525 chain will be stronger than a 520 of the same grade, even DID itself sells a 520 chain that will outlast and be stronger than the 525VM2. Check out the 520ZVM-X. Best wearing will be the 525ZVM-X but I also prefer the more commonly available 520s.

Yes, those are the latest DID products. I'm sure they are very good, probably better than the VM-2 which has been around now for over 10 years. How many miles can you get out of the ZVM chain? Maybe 30,000 miles?

I've had such good luck with the VM-2 ... on several bikes ... I've just stayed with them. They are also a bit cheaper than the newer ZVM chains.

denso does make a better irdium plug because the hold the patent for the original .4mm tip size. ngk and others need to use a larger tip and smaller is better.
http://www.densoiridium.com/

Bump

there are 3 locking oil fill hole caps avail for the dr as the 650 strom uses the EXACT same cap:
- http://www.vstroma.com/oilfillercap.htm
- http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/p...d=424&osCsid=59dcbfa7c097e96a59d10154cfad01e0
- http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/1383/PN-390-0100/Locking-oil-cap-DL650-and-DL1000

i have the vstroma one on my dr

twin air air filter me also.

Neutral Sending Unit

Thanks to LukasM, pics are worth a thousand words:

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8819854&postcount=19784

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8823250&postcount=19799

More info in PROBLEMS/FAILURES:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14659217&postcount=15

FatChance posted this for us: "How to change and adapt gearing on a dual sport (DR650)"

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569034

Spark plug – 8 ftlbs (96 in lbs)
TDC inspection hole plug – 16.5 ft (198)
Oil drain – 17.5 ft (210)
Oil filter cover – 8flbs (96 in) stock – 4ft (48) alum cover
Oil – 2.5 qt w/ filter (10w-40)
Cylinder head cover bolt – 7ft (84)
Valves – adj on the tight end (engine runs quiter)
Handle bar clamp bolt – 16.5 ft (198)
Front wheel axel – 47 ft : tighten first, cycle shocks 5x
Front wheel axel clamp bolts – 7 ft (84 in) : tighten next, top bolt first
Front brake caliper bolts – 19ft (228)
Fr brake Bleed nipple – 6 ft (72)
Fr Brake pad mounting pin – 13lb (156)
Fr brake hose banjo bolts – 16.5ft (198)
Rear brake caliper pad – 13 ft (156)
Rear wheel axel nut – 72.5 ft (cotter pin) / 79.5 (fuji nut)
Upper triple clamp bolt – 21 ft (252) / lower 19 ft (228)
Chain free play – 1.2–1.8 in (30-45 mm) 1.2 to 1.8 inches of slack in the middle of the chain
Fork top cap – 16.5 ft (198)
Fork preload = 10-20mm
Fork oil height = 6.5” / 16 oz (5.9 lowered – need 2 qt)
Rear shock – upper bolt 40 ftlb , lower bolt 38 to 45 Nm (cogent) 55nm (stock)
Rear suspension Dog bones fuji-nuts (both) – 72.5 flbs
Steering stem (top of triple clamp) top nut/cap – 65 ft lbs
Counter sprocket bolts - 4.5 ft lbs


Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RJSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7

Slow down, relax, get in the 'zone'. If you're in a hurry, or don't know WTF 'zone' is, use a clip. If you choose a clip, make sure the clip fits into the groove completely without over squeezing the side plate (damaging the 0-ring). If you don't have a dial or digital vernier caliper, use a clip.

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I'm trying to sort out what I want to do for my personal off-road "best fit."

<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="334"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:2852;width:59pt" width="78"> <col style="width:48pt" span="4" width="64"> </colgroup><tbody><tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt;width:59pt" height="17" width="78">
</td> <td style="width:48pt" width="64">
</td> <td colspan="3" class="xl68" style="width:144pt" width="192">Rear</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">
</td> <td class="xl67">Teeth</td> <td class="xl65" align="right">42</td> <td class="xl65" align="right">43</td> <td class="xl65" align="right">45</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">
</td> <td class="xl66">13</td> <td class="xl69" align="right">0.310</td> <td class="xl70" align="right">0.302</td> <td class="xl70" align="right">0.289</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td rowspan="2" class="xl74" style="height:25.5pt" height="34">Front</td> <td class="xl66">14</td> <td class="xl71" align="right">0.333</td> <td class="xl72" align="right">0.326</td> <td class="xl72" align="right">0.311</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td class="xl66" style="height:12.75pt" height="17">15</td> <td class="xl73" align="right">0.357</td> <td class="xl72" align="right">0.349</td> <td class="xl72" align="right">0.333</td> </tr> <tr style="height:12.75pt" height="17"> <td style="height:12.75pt" height="17">
</td> <td class="xl66">16</td> <td class="xl71" align="right">0.381</td> <td class="xl72" align="right">0.372</td> <td class="xl72" align="right">0.356</td> </tr> </tbody></table>

Are you going to stay with 525 set up, or going to 520?
For me, doing limited off road on my DR, I would try a 45T rear and then swap out front sprockets as needed. Seems with a 14/45 combo you'd have decent low gearing to putter along at fairly slow speeds without having to slip the clutch too much.

Then, if you wanted to go back on road, swap to the 16T ... which gets you back to stock gearing ratio.

If someone has found a 13T front sproc. that fits the DR650, I'd like to hear about it ... and I wonder how it worked.