Rear pre-load adjustment

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Jase, Oct 23, 2002.

  1. Jase, Oct 23, 2002
    #1
    Jase

    Jase Pissed Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 15, 2002
    Oddometer:
    499
    Location:
    Zurich, Switzerland
    My bikes giving me quite a harsh ride at the moment...

    the tyre pressure is ok

    the front pre-load is on softest (i moved hardened it up a tiny bit)

    the rear in on STD

    now rear preload - what are folks using - we're talking street riding here - and pretty spirited it can get too :):

    how many turns out from absolute hardest?

    and absolute hardest is FULL ANTI-CLOCKWISE right?

    thanks all
    #1
  2. Arch, Oct 23, 2002
    #2
    Arch

    Arch Incurable Gearhead

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2001
    Oddometer:
    11,707
    Location:
    Katy, TX
    You add/increase spring preload by turning the knob clockwise, so "FULL ANTI-CLOCKWISE" would be the minimum setting...

    :1drink
    #2
  3. dapolrbear, Oct 23, 2002
    #3
    dapolrbear

    dapolrbear Buddah Head Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2001
    Oddometer:
    805
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Depending on your weight, full "anit-clockwise" can be quite soft and you are prone to bottom out easily. I find it better for me between firm and std. I weight about 215. But lately my shocks feel kinda cruddy so I fixed it by ordering me a set of Ohlins, should be in today. :evil
    #3
  4. Andy, Oct 23, 2002
    #4
    Andy

    Andy Adventurer

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    Oddometer:
    40
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    SE England
    ... and I tend to wind my bike's pre-load about a full turn more than standard on the sticker. I also find it's incredibly effective so a half a turn extra copes with the standard luggage, laptop etc. The pre-load is too soft if you find the bike see-saws during tighter turns on the road (that kind of bouncy castle feeling!). Work up from this a half a turn at a time and see how it goes. You should also remember that tyre pressures can kick you in the arse all day long if they're too high. I run at about 36 psi all round so something like that or the recommended manual settings (a little lower) should be a good starting place. I only really pump up the tyres when the beastie refuses to turn quickly anymore...

    Try to work out if the suspension refuses to budge at all or if the harshness is when the suspension springs back from a bump and compression... There is a mysterious screw thing in the base of the rear shock but its beyond my meagre intellect to recommend any settings for that!

    Andy
    #4
  5. Jase, Oct 23, 2002
    #5
    Jase

    Jase Pissed Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 15, 2002
    Oddometer:
    499
    Location:
    Zurich, Switzerland
    errr wooops I screwed up!!

    I MEANT the damping..

    NOT PRELOAD

    :splat

    so damping - how many turns out from hardest???

    I am 90kg (180-200lbs - dunno exactly)
    #5
  6. ShaftEd, Oct 23, 2002
    #6
    ShaftEd

    ShaftEd Long timer

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    Nov 6, 2001
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    Location:
    San Diego, CA USA
    I have Ohlins now, but I believe that when I had the original rear shock, that the adjusting screw when fully seated while going clockwise was max damping. I used from 3/4 turn to 1.5 turns counterclockwise from fully seated depending on my preload for 2up or gear or solo riding.
    #6
  7. ramon, Oct 23, 2002
    #7
    ramon

    ramon weezin' the juice!

    Joined:
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    I find by cranking the rear to the highest position, and dropping the front to the lowest position, that seems to quicken the steering. As for rebound, I'd judge that on personel taste, depending on your weight. This has worked well for me. I've been using this formula for about two months. That coupled with the Kuhn Protapers, has quickend the big GS.:drums
    #7