Two Moto Kiwis Arctic To Antarctic May 2012...

An exhausting schedule of cultural experience and dumpling consumption. Hard to top eh? Love the monkey pic. Looks like the aftermath of a RTW DR rider.

Mexico City Day 5

For me it was one to get our racks modified slightly to take out the wobble, the top case wobbled a bit on corrugations and toppes so instead of waiting for things to crack I added to braces in to transfer the load.



I met Sinoe from Moto Desierto, very nice guy and very helpful and a rider beyond belief in the mad Mexican traffic.



First I had to buy a full 6m bar of tube and .5 kg of welding rods, next we had to get two 3m bars back to the workshop after cutting the main length in half.

No worries, bungied to the front and I held it up so Sinoe could ride us back to his workshop.

Sinoe had some other jobs to run so I carried on and fabricated how I wanted the job to turn out.

Maya created quite a bit of interest with many photos and people stopping to look.

Mexico City Day 6

The Pyramids And Birthday Party .... the perfect combo

Sunday, great day to visit the mighty pyramids north of the city, the main pyramid, pyramid of the sun in Mexico City is the 3rd tallest in the world so definitely worth going too.

We had a stunning day dished up for us and to be fair the crowds (according to Gary and Ivonne) was pretty good so the lineup only about 80 metres long and we were in pretty quickly.



Four of us lined up and ready to go





The stomp up the pyramid was in three tiers, good for a rest part way up and photo stop op.



There was a steady flow of people up and down, at the top of the big pyramid there is a small metal “thingie” that you can place your finger on and feel the power ... after doing that we all walked around the top of the pyramid like superman and wonderwoman taking in the spectacular views.



From the top







Finishing with the biggie we continued to the smaller pyramid called the pyramid of the moon the other smaller pyramid are all just and breath taking with the amount of work that went into them.

From the other end



Show the size of the place



Ellen on one of the side works



Mini panorama



That evening we were invited to a 30th birthday party for first response motorcycle doctor and a very nice guy indeed, there was family and friend there and two dodgy kiwis, they had mariachis singing at 110db and dancing, it was quite the bash.

The main man





Mariachis



Garry and Ivonne dancing the night away



Tamalis were supplied for the evening supper along with some non alcoholic drinks, we had taken some wine so that went down very well.

Ha that monkey photo made me instantly think of too many miles on a KTM seat

Less pictures please!!!!

Mr Ozrockrat if you get monkey ass like that , you are on your own, i shall not be helping you out........Great photos, Mexico City looks fantastic, better than i had thought it would.. having to change my mind abit with your photos..Happy New Year Ellen, dumplings looked great, you are quite the inventor....

Yeah it was hard but we managed .... as for the butt .... hmmmmm aftermath of any rider !

wouldn't be so bad if it was orange ...

Less PINK for a starter

Picture is worth a thousand words ........:eek1

We can arrange to photosmudge ... I think pink would suit him

Mexico City is cool, you need to get in and stay a few days to get a good sample of what it has to offer...dumplings are extra tho

Only 137 km to do, easy as, relaxing start saying goodbye to Ivonne, we had our directions nailed so we were good to go.

We had not even left town and a bus nudged our left pannier nearly sending us to the deck, it was all my mite to hold Maya up but we got away with it, the dickhead didn't even do a thing :huh

Luckily this is all we have to show for it .... I won't show you my undies



On exiting the city and just getting onto the cuota road we came across a bad truck crash on the other side of the road, it slowed things slightly but we managed to carry on easy enough, there was a line of traffic probably 5 km long banked up tho on the other side.



Worthy of TV coverage



Thinking how lucky we were not to be jammed up in that our road suddenly came to a stand still, as far as we could see there were cars and truck banked up ... argh no.

It was stinking hot, uphill and we were crawling at best, so Maya didn’t overheat we kept turning her off and starting to move up, it took us two hours to move two km, we had had enough of that, Maya had the fuel issue of squirting fuel out of the sensor when the tank got pressurized by heat and today she was like a boy dog having a big wizz.



A truck and a pickup has collided and it was fooking mess, both vehicle out of our lanes but the lanes had been narrowed hence the monster bottle neck





Not and ideal situation, finally we broke free from the traffic and managed to cut so clean cuota road stopping at a small town to tank up tummies and Maya.

Somehow we managed to screw something up direction wise and we bypassed Cholula and got to Puebla which we didn’t want to do and on the way we also managed to go to a road where Toppes were EVERYWHERE stop ... start ... stop ... start ..... it was fun!!! so Plan B was quickly activated.

Along the way tho we managed to get stuck is a small street parade so a bit of a bonus, we had front row seats





A band



We found a hotel not too badly priced and called it quits for the day.

Walking into town to the very local scene we had ended up in was interesting, not another whiteyfoo to be seen but the locals were all smiles and very friendly and we had a beautiful feed of something not having any idea what we order other than pointing at others plates and saying Dos Por Favor (two of those please)

All in all not a big milage day but one for of accidents, 3 done, things come in 3's we are sorted now ... being trashed from heat, crashes and toppes we bunked down for a good night sleep.

If you wondered why we are not moving now it is because Spot has crapped out.

We have contacted spot and await there response to replace it so in the mean time our block will cover were we are.

Luv to all

Andi & Ellen

The trip from Puebla to Oaxaca was uneventful and we took the Cuota road to make some time given the hard day getting out of Mexico City.

We had arranged a couchsurf stay with Don and Pat, riding the Cuota road we made good time, we had a bit of fun finding their place but not because the lack of instructions

They greeted us and welcomed us in and made us feel at home .... bloody typical Canadians!!

Unpacking and changing into human clothing we sat down and scoffed some cold water which was very welcomed, Pat had organised Spaghetti for tea which was outstanding and set the bar high.



Next morning Don took us to town to see if we could find sealant and an O ring for Maya given she was pissing fuel out when things got hot, success, we did get an oring but more so we bought some fuel proof sealant/adhesive to fix the problem, looks like we succeeded thus far.



Swapped the non return vent to the rear and put put the open hose to the main tank, thanks to the Flexx Bar cushion it holds the tube in place perfectly.





That afternoon Ellen set to and made some dumplings (No pictures sorry, we could show you but we would have to kill you ), I set too and fixed Maya ... again.

Centro was calling so we piled into a bus and had a look around Oaxaca town center, arriving back home we all tucked int the dumplings, Don and Pat gave them the big thumbs up so that was great.





Tequilas and chats then off to bed with another successful day under our belt.

The pyramid ruins were on the agenda for the following day, we were greeted with a hot clear day and our hike started at 9.30 am before the heat really set in.

The ruins were very cool, amazing the flat area that had been formed on the top of the mountain which commanded 360 degree views.





Some large circular base columns



Me!! (note Ozzies no pink bum )



View of town from the top of the ruins



On finishing there we took the bus into Abastos the huge market place in Oaxaca town, memorizing to say the least.



Fruitart



Valentines Day .... same same world wide



Once we were done mindlessly running around in circles we headed back to home base.

Pat and Don cooked bar b q chicken, another outstanding meal thoroughly washed down by more Tequila ... life is good.



The plan was to leave the following morning however the teachers were having their annual strike blockading all major shopping centres and city exits so we were not going anywhere, Don and Pat said no point trying to go so we decided to stay (mainly cos we can't go anywhere).

Ellen could not get Sushi ingredients so unfortunately Don and Pat dipped out, onya teachers!! :huh



Receiving an email from Phil and Jane, team bro and sis traveling south as well, we had a few emails back and forth and they came out to join us for tea that night, Don and Pat took us all out for tea to a local Tacorilla, the food again was outstanding and we all left substantially heavier.





See what the fud did to Phils eyes ... it was so big it made his eyes pop out



As we were being kicked out Phil and Jane had organised to take our room the next night as we were on our way again.

Really appreciate the views and thoughts of Mexico. We so easily build up an image of drug lords/poverty/dead bodies/corruption everywhere, where as you show it is so much more. thanks! john

We are only showing it as it is, we are not special (although ellen says I am s p e c i a l ) and we have no hidden agenda.

See Gene and Nedas report as well, Mexico is a great place to visit providing you don't watch American News.

I am sure you can find trouble IF you want it, same as an city in the world but even is ver poor communities where we have stayed the people are great.

We met you on the Dempster Highway and again in Dawson City at the D2D where you helped Ross bend back some of my bits. We went on to Prudhoe Bay and completed our Prudhoe to Ushuaia ride. You were right-the Haul rode was a breeze compared to the Dumpster! You're going to love the south half. Gene and Neda are friends of ours from our Toronto club so say hi to them for us.

Heya guys, yeah I remember you guys, hopefully the straightening served you well.

Good for you guys completing the mission too, more to see on the haul road so great that you didi it .

Will say hi to Gene and Neda, will be catching up with them in Xela in Guatemala for Spanish lessons.

Cheers Andi

Then the rain got heavy!! :eek1

We left Oaxaca when it was overcast. Not sure what the teachers are going to do on Monday, we didn’t want to wait and find out either.

Don told us from Oaxaca to Tuxtepec is nice windy road, up to the mountains and very nice. When we left town towards the mountain, it started to rain. We haven’t seen any rain for about 7 months, this time, it’s a real one.

I guess because the Oaxaca side doesn’t get much rain in the dry season, so it brought out the oily stuff to the surface, it’s as greasy as a butchers knife and slippery :eek1.

We carried on up to 3200m high, the temp went down to 3 deg C, we both got really cold. We had to stop on the top of the hill and found a restaurant, hot coffee ordered followed by some hot food. After a while, when we warmed up a bit, plus more warm clothes put on, we are on our way again.

The rain was driving in horizontally !!



The sign of a desperately cold face ... proof that yello can turn blue back to yello



The life saver



My jacket left a huge puddle on their floor, the water was pouring out of everywhere, the Klim gear held extremely well but water was driven in through the cuffs and the neck soaking down from my balaclava as I had to ride with my visor open for a fair bit of the time to see where we were going :eek1

Descending down the hill, this side the road was not as slippery as the other side, but the fog set in (we were actually in the cloud so no big view for us today), we can’t see 50m. It took us 5 hours to do the 220 km, and our Spot was killed by the rain too.

See the water rolling down the road



Bit damp but somewhere under there is a smile



It was windy as well as rainy so there was foliage all over the road.



Visibility was less than ideal



Thick fog and water chasing us down the road.



Getting to Tuxtepec, we quickly found a cheap hotel. Although our Gortex was water proof, riding in the rain long enough, water still found its way down to our chest and sleeves. Luckily we had the ceiling fan working all night to dry most of them.

To finish there was a waterfall cascading off the building so what is one to do but make the most of it ... next time I will wear my togs!

Although the hotel was cheap, we both slept in until quarter to ten! :eek1

The rain has stopped, we had a dry day to start with.

We rode towards to San Cristobal, just after Acayucan, the weather was looking dogdy again - dark clouds in front of us again. Andi stopped to zip up his pants. We both hop off the bike, we saw a pile of oil under Maya’s belly, and it was still pissing oil! OMG, here we go again!



Oil was everywhere



Maya was undersealed with synthetic oil, my previous cleaning job shot to pieces with road muck, rainy stuff and oil all over everything



We were just opposite a Pemex, so we pushed Maya to the side. The lady from the service station was very kind, she let us park under the roof. It started spiting again. I pulled the bash plate off started the bike and found the oil hose was split, that was where the oil came from.

I cut the broken hose off, it’s now to short to put back up.



Ellen went to ask where we can get a long hose. The lady from Pemex told us of a mechanico just across the road, as luck would have it he had a straight piece, not perfect but it will get us going.

So cutting and mucking around and two hours later we were back on the road, we lost 2.5 L of oil and could only buy dinosaur oil so we got the 20 - 50 grade motorcycle oil to fill up, oil change due in about 600 km so it will come out then.

Can’t believe how lucky we were to find the problem there as a few km down the road would have been a different story and probable engine damage ... life is interesting.

Arriving at Manititlan we looked for hotel, they were either dodgy as for 150 Pesos or too much for us at 700 Pesos, we decided to hit the road out of town to find somewhere.

The last point prior hitting the main exit road was a love motel, 200 Pesos for 4 hours .... we want the night, discussions were had and we said 300 Pesos for the night?, she disagreed with us and said no and wrote down 270 Pesos till 9.30 am ......she won!!

The place was great, no Wifi she said, we turned on the computer and bing straight onto the net ..... a bonus.

Being outa town a bit restricted us access to good fud so off to OXXO for hotdodgies and a tamale that was ... filling.:huh

Another interesting day saw two tired kiwis hit the sack for good sleep.

You were lucky you stopped just in time Bro with the oil leak , reminds me of when I stopped at Alaska Leather and the Elephant had blown out seal behind cam drive . I had no net for a week so took a bit of reading catching up , I always tried to avoid riding in the heavy rain , tomorrows always sunny and remember to have a holiday from the holiday . Im at Northern Samar Philippines stuck in tropical storm . I have some cool pics of local stretched bikes and police bikes so will so will post them when i get them posted on my smuggy . Ride safe Toddy and JB

Lucky catch with that oil leak. At the rate that thing was gushing you didn't have much longer to notice it. Looks like your SPOT died too. You guys have been in the same spot out in the middle of nowhere for a few days now.