2 stroke fun for 200 bucks

First overbore is most likely + .25MM, and if you can't easily feel the lines in the jug, that should probably clean it up for ya. I'd replace everything on the top end while yer at it - wristpin, wristpin bearing, circlips and all the gaskets. I'd also stick to dino 2T oil, because that's what it was designed to run on. Suzuki's branded oil is VERY good, as is the Yamalube product (made for them by Spectro), and both should be available at local dealers.

Nice find, by the way. Even if you add another 2 hundred in fix-up, yer 'lil Suzi's still a bargain! Let's hope those crank seals are OK....

WHEEEEEEEE

this is awesome.

Thanks Kirk! I'm hoping to chase you around on your XL with this little guy.


"Nice find, by the way. Even if you add another 2 hundred in fix-up, yer 'lil Suzi's still a bargain! Let's hope those crank seals are OK...."says Duck_Pilot

Yeah, I hope so as well. I had a gallon of yamalube and gave it away Dumb ass. I'll change over to dino before I kick it over.

Thanks Stagehand!! It is gonna be fun once it's up and running. There used to be a group of us girls with 4 or 5 vintage 2 strokes and one super sherpa that would ride every saturday at the local "no trespassing" motocross track. It was built on abandoned city property. We'd have beach umbrellas, coolers full of beer, boom box, and cameras. And we just ride all day on those bikes!!! I miss those days, but I really miss the bikes. So hoping this one will treat me right.

now that you've got the top end off, check the rod bearings. Kinda difficult without tearing down the whole motor, but a couple quick checks should tell you whether you should continue before you buy a new piston and bore that cylinder.

Inspect the top (small end) of the rod, needle bearing and wrist pin. Shouldn't be any scoring, esp in the rod bushing. A little discoloration of the wrist pin is normal, but if it's blued from over heating, you'll need to worry about the rod too.

Push the crank to the bottom of it's stroke. Grab the rod and hold it upright.()
You should not feel and up and down movement, and no side to side. A little wobble is normal.

Repeat at 90 degrees all around to check further. If there's any play though, at the bottom of the stroke is were it's usually at it's worst.

I'd grab the flywheel and check for play in the mains there, no wobble and no in 'n' out.

If you really want to go all out, pull the clutch cover and check that side too.

good god that sounds like fun.

amazing that parts are so cheap.

Oh Andy, you do realize I am a dumb ass. But I will check all of that stuff to the best of my ability. I don't have the book yet, and I may come back and ask a bunch of silly questions. Thanks for looking out for me!!

"This is gonna be great!" - Flounder, Delta House

I hardly think so.

But sometimes enthusiasim gets in the way, I'd hate to see you do a top end, only to find out it needs a crank rebuild too.

So the crank has more side to side movement than up and down. The side to side it about 1mm either side, and very snug when I try to move it up and down. So, questionable? Or sound ok? The bike has 3700 miles on it which I believe to be original. The kid was running chainsaw oil in it, and apparently was parking it in a fricking lake!!! Should I still check the clutch?

Oh, flywheel is nice and snug!

This while grabbng the flywheel? or the rod?

If it's the mains, you're probably going to need to split the cases.

oops, posted my last reply before i saw this.

sounds like you're ok on the bottom end.

Take a feeler gage and insert it between the side of the rod and fliywheel. Post up the size you get to fit in there. Generally more than .75MM/.030" is worn out.

That piston looks like an air leak somewhere leaned it out bad. At that age even low mileage crankshaft seals are suspect. I'd replace them were it mine. Sometimes they can be replaced without splitting cases,sometimes not. It'd be a good idea to replace them even if you do have to split the cases. If they're bad you'll be splitting the cases anyway but the parts bill will be much higher.

Side to side on the rod is fine, its up and down that matters :)

Syn two stroke oil is great, don't be scared

I'd premix the oil and gas for starters and verify that the injector stuff is functional.

Measure the cylinder and see how it specs out, if its not too worn you can just hone it, if it is too worn then have it bored one over and fit a larger piston to match. Boring an steel sleeve isn't expensive and shouldn't run more than $60.

Here's some more stuff...

There's this here thingy-mabob...
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5453087025/" title="P1040964 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5012/5453087025_ce9d973d7b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1040964" /></a>

Then, this doohickey...(strange, that's actually a part)

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5453693650/" title="P1040957 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5453693650_8478a4f4ae.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1040957" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5453084313/" title="P1040961 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5453084313_6982518ab6.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1040961" /></a>

brothers..

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5453079965/" title="P1040981 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5058/5453079965_245a423e32.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1040981" /></a>

Sisters??

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5453092057/" title="P1040982 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5018/5453092057_cca203dcba.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1040982" /></a>

Look at how dirty this is...do i have to bleed this oil pump?

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5453690422/" title="P1040974 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5453690422_f0d19c5763.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="P1040974" /></a>

How do these, reed valves?, look to you guys??

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5453702712/" title="P1040979 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5453702712_b17dbaf239.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1040979" /></a>

So, yes, I'm an ignorant fool. But, it is bliss!! I'm 38, and have never really been into an engine. I'm from Detroit and it's about damn time I know what the hell that means!!! I mean, come on, dad was a master tool and die maker and I just removed my first piston!!! I'm a disgrace...

Stay tuned...my friends water heater just died...so gotta go fix it. At least I'm somewhat butch:ymca

The oil pump looks nasty, but I've always had premix two strokes so don't know much about it. Honestly I'd probably disconnect the whole thing and run premix, but someone else may have better ideas.

The reeds look good as best I can tell from the photo.

As long as the tips of the reeds aren't chipped and they are laying flat against the reed cage you are good to go there.

lol sisters

Little end bearings and wristpins whatsits look ok.

since you're reboring, you're gonna replace piston/pin/small end bearing/circlips. don't bother reusing that small end bearing or wristpin - they're cheap. i didn't see a pic of the head - if it's not beat to death, there's no need to replace it. reeds look fine.

with no vertical play on the rod, and if you yank on the ignition and nothing moves, you're probably all right. can you see any rust on the big end bearing? does the rod look like it got hot/big discoloration on the bottom half of it? i would replace big end seals, they are probably accessible without splitting the cases (oops checked and according to the fiche - only the left side one is replaceable without splitting) (also look at the crank bearings when you do the seals - check for rust). i would also replace shift shaft seal, it's a common leak spot on 90% of 2 strokes, and it's cheap to replace.... it looks like it got lean at one time. coulda come through ignition side seal or intake boot. check intake boot for cracks. clean airbox boot and airbox of dirt. replace airfilter. make sure it's seated well, and no air can bypass filter. bleed oil pump. it's simple to do.


check the timing too - sometimes erosion to the front half of the piston(like in your pic) is caused by ignition too far advanced. that would make it real hard to start also.....

Oh snap...where's that there head scratchin' smiley... Eh', that'll do. Well, took the cylinder to http://www.mspcycle.com/ for boring. Looks like I need 2 over std. So there goes my 200 dollar savings on the initial asking price. New piston, rings, needle bearing, clips, and wrist pin...125! Whatever, I'm learning and having fun. Had them feel the crank, and they said it felt great, so no splitting cases...this time Ah, what else. Looks as though the head gasket separated causing the leak. I dunno. Going to clean the head and other bits. Pics to follow...oh, thanks very much to all for educating me and poking at me.

Two strokes are pretty simple, good thing You didn't pick up a KTM cheap, those will cost you some bucks.....

I hope the bike charges.

You'll love riding that ring-a-ding around town. So politically and environmentally incorrect!!! I am speaking of the bike not you!!!

At least you got a good solid looking bike to start w/.