I plan to put up a blow by blow tutorial on Yamaha single crankshaft repair/rebuild. It will take about a week to gitter done. Please refrain from posting comments until I have finished the job. It just makes it messy for readers that wish to follow the story uninterrupted. Here are a few photos to get things started and I hope to add more detailed text in the next week. First you need a decent press. It takes between 10 and 15 tonnes force to get the crankpin moving. Support the crankshaft on as solid a foundation as you can find in the workshop. The main press plates are 25mm thick and the smaller pieces are 13mm. The press arbor is 30mm. Press the crankpin out slowly and make sure the conrod does not hang up and bend as you press. I move the conrod up as I work the press, just wiggle the rod vertically a millimeter at a time and ensure the rod is free to move left and right at all times.
More, more!! I need to do this too, how did you get the cam chain sprocket off the shaft?? And was it a bastard getting the crank halfves aligned Regards dave
Hi. My problem crank rod side space. benim ingilizcem biraz zayıf sorry. Help me please thank you.
Action man has a handy jig to help realign the crank on reassembly. I have just finished rebuilding mine and have to realign the crank the old fashion way of bumping and using dial gauges to measure the run out.
I would like to know that did you asamble these distance rings by yourself ? If make the same application on my bike can it decrease space?My bike is 1996 XT600E . I don't have any distance rings like you have?
I don't think those shims are fitted on the XT600E engine (3TB).... the big end of the 3TB conrod is wider...
I had not replied to this post as my workshop manual covers only 1984-1989 and the clearance in my manual for those models is .25mm to .75mm and maybe different for your bike. You have to use a press and press the crank together and a feeler gauge to adjust your gap and be careful not to go to far. If the measurements are the same for your model. At .50 mm, your crank is in the middle of the range and I would leave it alone.
I disassembly my piston engine my crank bearing is 2 X KOYO 6307 HS (High Speed) . But I couldnt find same bearring in market. FAG 6307 C3 or FAG 6307 is suitable for me. C3 mean more space in bearring but rpm is higher than other. Which one do i choose? Thanks in advance
i am faced with the same question im on a dr350[455] re-build what did u use and how did that work for u ?
A well known builder of XT's told me that if I was not using the OEM Yamaha bearings (prefered), use a quality Japanese bearing in C3 clearance. All the best, Pawlie
Please refrain from posting comments until I have finished the job. It just makes it messy for readers that wish to follow the story uninterrupted. Doesn't anyone read
RunningBare, OP started this thread in December of 2010. I figure if he was going to complete the how to it would be done by now. His original post states the how to would be completed in a week....... Dude asked a question that I could help out with. Why don't you tend to your own yard. Or perhaps as you suggest read the pertinent dates before piping up. Pawlie
Not really. The OP has signed in last month. Maybe he elected to not post anymore in this thread as people had posted when they were asked not to. The flip side is if the thread had been posted start to finish after completion of the crankshaft rebuild that would not have happened thinks I. I see we (OP) were born in the same decade so I am a supporter of grumpy old men and intolerance "if that is the case",I definitely resemble that remark.
