The 'No Pissin and Moanin' DR650 Thread

Sure you can move the key ignition.

You will have to do some work to remove the safety screws that hold it on that are to keep people from removing the key lock since it is the fork lock too.
Once you cut/drill/hack away the screws holding it to the upper fork clamp you can mount it anywhere the wires will reach.
Or, by extending the wires you can relocate it anywhere you want.
Of course you will NOT have a fork lock so plan an alternative parking lock.

You can use a different key ignition but you will need to wire in a correct resistor.
There is a nice write-up on here by someone who did that.

Here you go, post #25.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635694

My DR was originally blue but I like the clean look of all white so I've been collecting, uh ordering off the 'net, parts for the change over. I also finally bent the stock bars so and had the ProCycle bar kit waiting, so....

New front fender, Tusk handguards, bars w/1 inch risers, pillowtop grips (managed to save my grip warmers during the transfer) and a fork service since it was all apart anyway.

I like the profile on the aftermarket fender....which was $22 shipped and bolted right up. Just had to drill for the speedo cable guide. I have a new white rear fender waiting for a few hour gap in my day.

Did you know you can link to the actual post by clicking on the number on the top right of the post itself?

Yes, I did thanks and now others do too. I wanted the OP to scroll thru the thread to see what's available in Krusty's Index.

Also thanks for your tips in the GPS and Spot threads.

Thank christ there's a newer, less monsterous DR thread... After many attempted searches through that monster, I've decided to post my question here.

Has anyone done the full top end rebuild on a DR650? I'm looking at getting the high performance top end rebuild kit from procycle as my big pig has about 25-26,000 miles on it. Is it too soon to do a rebuild?

Thanks

It depends on a lot of factors but I have 29k on my second DR now, the 1st one is over 32k, and neither has had any work or need for it. With basic upkeep they run without issues.

+1, 34k miles and going strong. It's all about PMCS (preventative maintenance checks and service). "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

+ another: 42,400

Ok, just checking.

And you're welcome for the gps and Spot tips.

Is your bike displaying any obvious symptoms of needing a rebuild or poor running? DR650 top ends last a long time. We do hear about some bikes that smoke on start up ... this is typically caused by worn valve guide seals ... not really a reason to rebuild whole top end.

26K is not high mileage (I'm near 50,000). But if you've got some extra money and strive for a bit more bottom end power ... then a big bore kit or high compression piston MAY give you what you need.

Before installing an aftermarket piston kit I would look carefully at the QUALITY and potential LONGEVITY of these parts and determine if they are equal to Suzuki items. The sellers will tell you they are better. Make them prove it.

Symptoms of a worn top (or bottom) end could be:
1. A lot of oil use (worn rings or poor valve sealing)
2. Loss of compression (best to do a "leak down" type compression test)
3. Continual valve lash adjustment with repeated loss of clearance.
4. Very loud piston slap or some other godawful noise, like from a broken ring or broken valve stem or ... ???

I hope you have none of the above ... and #4 is pretty rare from reports I've read on DR650's.

With reasonable oil & filter change intervals and keeping valves adjusted, no reason a stock DR650 should not go to near 100K miles ... if 3rd gear doesn't break before then!

It's not showing any of those symptoms so far, hopefully they don't manifest themselves(fingers crossed). I'm still thinking about doing the high comp piston though, if not the cam. The piston kit is a JE 10:1 kit with a new gasket set from procycle, I've heard very good things about it.
Thanks again

JE have an excellent reputation. I used JE in my two stroke race bike and in a rebuild of my former XR250R. Good stuff ... but that was 5 or 6 years back.
Now? Who knows. Sourcing and quality shift with costs and the economy.

Still hearing good things about them

That yard must be a bitch to Mow !

Had a tough ride yesterday on LAB2V ( LA to Barstow 2Vegas). Had three flats on the rear.
1- picked up a nail. Just unlucky.
2- tore valve stem out of tube. Running 16 psi, evidently not enough and spun the tire on the rim.
3- pinch flat. Classic snake bite pinch. I guess 19 psi was not enough for the rocks we were riding through.

My question is on rim locks. Does anyone run them? These would have reduced/ eliminated the tire spin is what others said on the trail yesterday. I am thinking of drilling my rims to install a set. I have not read about rim locks on the DR threads. Are you guys running more pressure in the dirt? You are probably smoother riders then I am. But I sure got my practice with trail side flat repair.

Lastly, an 18" rear wheel. I have read a few posts about guys changing their rear to an 18" rim. What are the pros and cons to this? Seems that 17" is more street oriented and dirt bikes have 18" wheels. I think the DRZ400 comes with an 18" rear.

Thanks!

Man, that's some bad luck. I'm guessing you're keeping a pretty fast pace, not slowing up for rocky, tough sections? I've run similar pressures in Baja (15 to 17 psi front with TKC 80's .. 18 to 20 PSI rear .. Dunlop D606), but I keep a very moderate pace, no flats and no rim locks.

What tires are you using?

I'm not hammering the throttle accelerating ... so maybe that helps? Hard charging over rocks can aid in spinning the tire on the rim and head on hits can pinch a tube. Riding technique can influence this some. Riding Enduros I followed Dick Burleson's motto: "Save the Equipment".

To Win, you must first FINISH!

Quite a few DR guys are running rim locks. No big deal on install, just makes flat repairs a little tougher, until you get used to dealing with them.

The 18" rear is the choice of some DR guys doing more dirt than street. An 18" tire will typically have a TALLER side wall, this gives you more cushion on hits, resists pinch flats better than a 17". Also, it changes Rake/Trail geometry slightly ... and some say the bike turns better with an 18".

If you switch to an 18" rear wheel, make sure you use a wheel TOUGH enough to handle 650 power, as some 18's come from DR350's I believe.

Another plus: every knobby on the market is available in an 18". Not so a 17". But some of those knobbies are not ideal for the very heavy DR650. Some tires for Moto can chunk or shred under hard use.

For traveling nowadays, you actually find MORE 17" rear tires available on the road than 18's. This true in all of Latin America anyway.

Tell us about the event. What was the mix of bikes? How many showed up? Where was the overnight held?

That's a bummer, 3 in a day. What did you say when you got the 3rd one ? Not printable I bet !
Coming from a dirt bike background I have always run rim locks, although I don't have one in the rear of my DR at present, but I am always 2 up so run high pressures. (30+ unless in mud) I have one in the front because it's a DRZ front end/ wheel so it came with one but I have changed it for a Motion Pro light weight one
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/rim_locks/
One my dirt bikes I always used to put the rim lock close to the valve because it was easier to change that way but it's not so good for balance. With the lightweight ones it requires less weight to balance the wheel.
Do you run heavy duty tubes ?
Cheers Phil

Please don't forget to fill out a 2404...