A Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade -- How-To

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This is on my list of things to do over the winter too. I haven't had any problems with the RR yet.

Nice job. Very well done. Thank you.

Just did this to my XRR and will do it to the SE sooner than later. Great photo how to

I did a similar thing on my 690 E. The 950 project is going to get this upgrade as well.

I'm always removing extra wire & relays, poor connections and trying to tidy things up on all my motorcycles- the Achilles Heal of many bikes and MOST KTMs is the crap electrics...

most of the electrics' relays, switches & ECUs are made by Nippon Denso but (I think) the wiring harnesses are made as an afterthought (I've seen the loom "mock up" jigs KTM uses). Worse even is KTM's choice of the fewest strands of copper possible with the least insulation on each wire... like the crap Harbor Freight sells.

thanks for sharing the numerous pics, but I must ask-

Why oh why didn't you move the reg/rect somewhere with more airflow? Seems that would be on top of the "to do" lists of Adventure riders with it buried behind bodywork & skidplate...

Thanks for the compliments all.

Well, there are a few reasons for "why I didn't"

1. This style of R/R works better and runs cooler. Heat isn't as much of an issue for it.
2. The mounting location on the Adventure isn't too concealed to restrict airflow around it. It is in front of the engine so heat from that doesn't affect it. My concern with the original location is more due the elements, i.e, mud, sand and water, mixed with it's unsealed connectors and solder joints.
3. I decided that if I were to relocate the R/R, it wasn't the only thing I would be relocating. I would also move the battery, starter relay, and the rest of the electronics down there. The only place which has enough space for all that is the storage compartment and a) I use it for tools and b) would really like to wait until I get into fiberglass/carbon fiber fabrication to make something custom for this.
4. Only other available locations are behind the air box and that area is extremely hot. Or, behind the headlight, but, I have a shortage of room with the HID Ballasts.
5. I plan on getting a G-IT Skid Plate which has vents at the R/R location to aid in airflow.

Is that enough? I guess, short point is, I looked and didn't see an alternative that didn't, itself, pose it's own issues.

Hi Uller, great write-up and great job. Just want to ask a noob question.....did you just keep the stator wires in the same order when you put on the new plug and does it matter. Cheers from Oz, Glenn.

Have you tried the bike?
do you have a voltmeter?
how does it works?
thanks!
nice install AND write up

The order of the stator wires does not matter. I'll add it to the descripetion above. Thanks.

Yes, I have.
Yes, I do.
Very Well.
You're welcome.
Thanks!

Has anyone tried Ricks?
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=10-014H&pmc=MDdLVE05NTBTdXBlckVuZHVybw==

Plug and play if the picture is real...

Nice job Uller!

It's more expensive, it keeps the shitty stock connector, it's not the same quality (somebody has had a failure already),.... Sometimes making the extra effort is worth it over plug and play, this is the case here IMO.

Yes. Chinese crap, no-name - or "Hot Shot" (tells you it's Chinese) - and the unsealed stock connector.
The standard - for good reason, tried and tested - for regulator rectifier upgrades is SHINDENGEN FH (MOSFET type). That is what you would find with google - SHINDENGEN FHxxx - for Triumph, Ducati, Honda, and so on.

Is your crank case breather hose just bent back temporarily while you do work on the bike, or do you have something else going on back there?

Nice work.. will definitely be looking at doing this in the future.

And, that area is not cool. Here is a pic of a multimeter that I had been carrying in the bottom of the tool bin.

The OEM Voltage Regulator/Shunt type gets to about 200-350 degrees F (from what I've read). Will burn you if you touch it.

Whereas my Mosfet Shindengen VR is just Warm (Appx 100 Degrees F) to the touch but does not get HOT.

It stays that cool? I'm all over it. Good write up. My stocker runs 165 located here. The other day it went to 17 volts:huh for a minute.

Yep, it is that much of a difference
...and remember your past post about your OEM VR reaching the 245 degree level range.

Yes and no. It doesn't permanently look like that but, I do have it routed to just above my chain with a K&N Breather Element attached to it after the one-way valve.