Honda Elite 150 1987 Restoration

Good News! Took the scoot for its first ride today. I'll admit that it was a pretty sketchy ride. Front and back brakes didn't work! Haha, but thats ok cause I live on a pretty flat street. Got the scoot going up to 25MPH but didn't want to go any faster because of the super old tire on it, which was generating a little shake from being flat for 10 years.

I installed 1000rpm clutch springs today and that for sure gave it some good pick up. Used the video below to remove the clutch bolt. Worked great! She is idling super good and the carb doesn't bog down at all. I can't believe this scoot is coming back to life after 10 years of rust and neglect.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/aEDdglsl9PM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Now onto my newest problem. The front brake cable is rusted stiff. Luckily I found a new cable and front brake drum for $30 on eBay today. Saw online that the brake cables are hard to find and I didn't want to hunt everywhere. Once I get that all good I'll drive the scoot around the neighborhood for a week or so and see how it fairs. Then start investing real time and money into it for a good looking restoration. Mahalo for the help so far!

Hey guys. A little update. So I got a front brake for the scoot and have been driving it up and down my street, its so smooth! The 1000rpm clutch springs I put in give it great take off, but I'm not reaching a speed over 35mph. Maybe 40. I did a thorough carb cleaning and I know that helped a bunch. I plan to drive it around for the next week or so and get the motor feeling alive again. Painted the muffler and replaced the exhaust Gasket, boy did that make it pur a little smoother. I did find a nice chunky rust hole in the back corner of the exhaust as well. The thing starts up without any hesitation when its warmed up.

So now I'm onto a full restoration, I wanna take the frame off and give it a good scrubbing and paint job, any pointers? I don't wanna loose pieces in the process. Pics will be up soon, maybe even a little ride video!

Mahalo

basic stuff zipp lock bags with tags and lots of pictures and notes of what came from where. Any website that show basic car painting is ok to read up on it. Painting all the same thing in the end. All depends on what you want in a paint job perfect or looking good at 5 feet. Anyone with time and spray can get good looking 5 foot job .

OMG! I went 55MPH today!!!!! I can't believe it! I'm still coming down from the high. I took it for a little joy ride around town and it wouldn't get over 30mph. The best part of it was that I was using my iPhone to get the max mph, then when it was safely tucked between my legs...so I thought...I see it sliding on the road next to my scooter!!!!! I was baffled! But no worries, screens are replaceable. When I got home, I put the bike up on the center stand and adjusted the idle because the tire was still spinning like crazy. Then I have it some throttle on the stand and it sounded like it was hitting a faster speed. I took her up the street and it fricking moved! I mean it moved! I went 50MPH on my street where the speed limit is 25MPH.

I don't know what got it going, but its going now. It also was overheating when I got back to the house after the first ride, so now I gotta replace the coolant and all that jazz. Does anyone know how to bleed the coolant lines. I'm sure the coolant is old and grim. Thanks guys. heres some photos of my painted muffler. First of many restorations.

If you have the cover off the belt and clutch area, watch the rear pulley separate as you rev the engine. It should open all the way so the belt bottoms out against the shaft. At that point the variator should be closed so the belt is at the outside edge of the variator pulley. If the rear pulley won't open all the way, you have to disassemble it and clean out the grooves that a couple of pins slide in. Tech Tip #8 at www.ch250.net might help.

So it looks like I'm overheating. I haven't checked all the possible culprits yet, but will get on it tomorrow. The fan works when I jump it, but it didn't seem to cool the engine down when I turned it on. So that makes me think coolant isn't circulating. Should I flush it again? I also let it idle and the temp rises after about 10 mins of sitting there on the center stand. Just ordered a gasket kit online, so time to keep replacing parts. Any suggestions would be awesome. Video below. Mahalo!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/krJXol_LF2Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Well guys, an update finally. I have the bike running super good.
Work done:
1.Por-15 Gas tank. It was super rusty now it looks perfect.
2.Skelly
3.Exhaust gasket
4.Some black paint to cover the dirt and rust.
5.Three good carb cleanings

Now Mad Max is running like a champ. Put my surfboard rack on the other day and got my Vermont Plates last week. The guy I got it from on Craigslist didn't have a title and Hawaii was giving me hassles. So I went the Vermont route and I'm now good to go!

Looking good! These machines are solid and strong. It should run a long time.

Cool are you going to but some Metal floor boards in ?

I've seen some guys have welded some on, but I'm gonna focus on the dash and headlight for now. Wanna get a ruckus headlight set up and speedo. Its all about looking cool right? haha.

Try an auto store and see what they have that might work to. Often some cool looking retro light to be found there.

Hey guys, I know the exhaust gaskets are an issue. But Mine is getting super loud. Last week both the bolts rattled off so I had to replace them. I'm getting white residue running down the exterior of the exhaust pipe. Looks like the material from the gasket ring. Is there a way to get this thing to quite down a little. My bike sounds like a motor cycle. Video to come. Thanks.

Also, I can feel air coming out of the head where it connects to the exhaust. Shouldn't this be air tight?

You should have Exhaust gasket behind where it bolt into the head. http://www.scrappydogscooters.com/CF150_4T_1P58MJ_Parts.html half way down the page you see it. Then there a second gasket that goes over exhaust header and an between the muffler. This is is held on by a clamp.
Any champ but the big ass oem type is going to result in lots of noise because they don't seem to have the holding power. You can order both the gaskets from you honda dealer. Anyone know if If I m full of shit saying the the Gaskets off a helix my fit ? At least the Muffler one should work I m guessing. Really often thats all I m doing here is guessing and dishing up what someone else has said .

I have bought a few of those and I can't seem to make them last. I'm guessing that the motor is getting too hot and burning it up faster then normal. It goes from loud to louder.

Here is a video of my exhaust sound. Sorry its so short, but see how the pipe from the head is white. And it sounds like a motorcycle. Any help or advice would be awesome.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/iW2sft_g3Ao" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

You say you've bought "a few of those gaskets" I'm not sure what the problem is or what your doing wrong because that gasket should last forever as long as your bolts are holding the muffler tight against the head as they are suppose to.. If the bolts are loose and not sealing it completely then what happens is the extremely hot exhaust gases escaping through the leak will burn out the gasket. From watching the video its pretty obvious the gasket is shot and the reason is most likely because the bolts are not holding tight.. also examine the muffler for any holes.

The only solution for gaskets that go between the pipe and where you clamp down to the muflar that don't burn out are DIY Copper or bronze piping that is turned down to the right size . Might have used sold peace that was turn down and then drill out to the right size. I ve read about them but never done it. Don't have or know how to use a lathe . This is a common issue on elite and helix . The problem with running without the gaskets for any leght of time is running lean. Burn out piston etc. Crazy question can't you just rejet to the carb to cure running lean and say screw the gasket? The other question is your muffler rattle can inside it? You ll end up with more noise that way.

So I just looked at the back of the muffler and its got a nice rust hole in it. Probably the size of an apple. I didn't notice it when I first spray painted it cause it was a little hid below. You guys think I should just make a new exhaust?

The 150 only has one gasket, where the entire muffler attaches to the engine. That business about the second gasket and clamp is true for the Helix, but not the 150. When you put everything together there are 5 bolts involved, if I remember right. What you want to do is put the muffler on with everything really loose, then tighten the two nuts at the engine first, nice and snug. Only them tighten the 2 bolts at the front of the muffler-swingarm and the one at the rear of the muffler. I like to keep my foot or something solid under the whole thing, pushing up firmly, until everything is tight. You can use a double gasket.

Of course, if you have an apple size hole in the muffler, your problem won't be solved putting it together right. A skilled welder might be able to help you.