Not the penny.... Cleaning some gasket remover overspray from the back of the engine with a rag, this fell out on the garage floor... Spacer? FWIW, the right side cover was off. Anyone?
That piece AND an little rubber O ring go between your oil pump and the side cover, if they aren't both put back you WILL kill your engine... -Barron
dude! do not start your bike! double check its not the spacer that goes to the oil pump and cover...there is an oring too that goes around it... right cover off almost 100percent sure... do it or risk frying your bike...
That has got to be the "holder" which passes oil from the pump to the right crankcase cover; it's part #13 in the following diagram. Remove you right crankcase cover immediately and replace that metal sleeve. Also, make sure the O-ring, part #19 is present, or you will certainly damage your engine. Spud
I can respect a man who knows he's getting soft and is man enough to admit it. Beer's on me next time I get to Tejas
FCRs are easy to tune! There's just more to tune. Seriously... I did cheat a bit though. JD Jetting's Excel spreadsheet makes the task much easier. Otherwise needle selection can drive you off a cliff.:eek1
More on the oil tube. An easy thing to leave out. The O ring is PN 91305 below. BUT, how did it get on the back of the engine??????????????????
Anyone have a stock chainguard? Mine was missing when I bought it... Also, what's a good replacement for the chain slider on the bottom right behind the front sprocket?
The instant on is mostly "jerk" . A very slight hesitation followed by a catch. That's not acceleration, though people think it is, but it can help with creating a momentary "steepness" in the torque curve which is good for lofting the front wheel. A pumper and a CV don't have to be mutually exclusive, either. That wheelie jerk is good for that, wheelieing, but not for traction. The reality is your wrist shouldn't monitor air to the motor. Only the motor knows what it needs. All a rider can do is request a power amount. That's what a CV and a fly-by-wire throttle do and why those air-fuel monitoring methods have way smoother torque curves (which allows a rider to know what they're getting) than any device where a rider's right wrist controls the slide/butterfly. In Moto-GP all engine tuning efforts are about a smooth torque curve, the horsepower wars are over. In the end, if electric bikes can ever get the energy capacity thing sorted the IC will be done (and I LOVE ICs). Want better snap from your CV machine? Get more vacuum. My CW motor has crazy snap.
So I post at 12:34, and within minutes Barron, Christian, Spud have the same response. Steve comes in with an actual picture of what to do. Sure enough, the holder had jumped ship, leaving the o-ring in the side cover. Buttoned it all back up tonight (and threw in an XRR c/s sprocket install for good measure) and the thumper lives to thump another day. Fritz - I'm sure it jumped into a shop rag and hid there until I grabbed it to wipe down the back. Or as Barron says, Gremlins... I can't thank you guys enough. One of these is the oil tube, the other is the gremlin... <a href="http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/cc190/chipbl/2008%20XR650L/?action=view&current=c45ff095.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/c/chipbl_2008%2520XR650L_c45ff095.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Spud sells a roller for this position chain slider. You can also cut one from just about any plastic you can round up that is thick enough. Thick rubber works well also.Just cut it out with a jig saw. Drill hole first. It does not need to be a perfect copy of the OEM.
