I'm in the process of going through the break-in period. I have noticed that, at a certain low throttle point, the FI pulses and I get a lurching effect.
I think, its just the nature of the beast. At certain combinations of RPM and throttle opening ECU is confused about what are you trying to do (accelerate, or overrun and engine brake), and shuts the fuel off and turns it back on repeatedly. Even though its supposedly advanced 32-bit FI system, same as used on their top-of-the-line sport-bikes. If youd look at Power Commander mapping someone had done here on the forum (its been awhile, I dont care to find it now, but if you care, search for it :)) had shown that at certain modes of operation the fuel delivery is zero, and some of this stuff could be improved by tweaking with it, and adding fuel where stock does not. However, under normal acceleration and cruising under load at speed it works a charm, so I am not willing to give my superior fuel consumption over comfort at parking lot speeds.
Stock bike? You can get some surging before the engine is hot, its so slight, I do not notice it most of the time.
I don't know. I store my bike inside, and try to never put it away wet, but I ran into wet salty roads in the spring and that tore up my TU. Back spokes, sprocket, chain, the rear wheel adjusters, brake rod and arm, chain, even the shifter. Glad I had spare parts from the salvage bike. In the old days, there was not much bare metal, things were painted or chrome. Suzuki seems to have used some sort of very thin plating or paint, but it does not hold up to salt. I know there are products out there you can use to prevent rust, but I never tried any of them. Harley guys are big on clean looking bikes, check at a Harley dealer...
Yeah, brand new. Not a big deal , just some minor niggles. Figure the cables are stretching out too, so precise throttle performance ain't gonna happen.
Just took my TU out for a quick 15-mile backroad loop on my lunch break... Perfect cure for the Monday blues!
Hey all, I found a mail-order parts catalogue online that has diagrams of the TU. Y'all might find it useful if you don't have the shop manual, or if you prefer a computer, or something. I've never actually ordered anything from this site, only used it for reference. http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fic...=Motorcycles&make=Suzuki&year=2011&fveh=39865
The dealership near my work was doing demo rides yesterday for Star Motorcycles' new 950cc Bolt cruiser so I figured, what the heck? It actually handled pretty well for its size and weight (and the cruiser ergonomics, which I'm not used to)... I adjusted to it quickly and enjoyed the growl of the exhaust and all that low-end torque... But then I handed back the keys and hopped on my TU and rode home. I have to admit, the TU felt tiny after riding the Bolt! Took me several miles to adjust to it again (kind of what I imagine a 70's-era 125cc 2-stroke racer might have felt like- that was my mental picture). But, I don't think I'll be trading in my bike for a big cruiser anytime soon!
First, thanks to all for the help on the headlight. Second, I've been working 10hr days, so sorry in the delay for responding back. Here's the latest: Hooked up my jumpers to the light bulb... IT is working fine. Next I checked the voltage in the nacelle at the spot where the light plugs in... Motorycle turned on and engine running: Putting the positive where the black/white wire is, and the negative where the white wire is I get voltage... ... about 15V... right where I would expect (it's set on 50, so the middle voltage numbers are the ones we're looking at). Next I keep the negative on the white wire, but move the positive to the yellow wire, and I get the same voltage. I'm not sure what that means about which wire is the ground?!? Everything is still on, TU is still running...I plug the light bulb in...nothing I try to move the wires some, and the bulb is all the way in there as far as I can tell - nothing! I turn the engine off, and I simply turn the power on and test the voltage. It's (sorry about pic quality) about 10-11 volts coming through. So, you experts out there, what does this mean? Is one of the connections not being made to the bulb? Is there a ground problem? I REALLY need to get riding again!! I also tested the fuse and battery - both are working as they should. Thanks for any help.
I would check the start button switch. I've been lurking here and agree that it's likely the headlight cut-out in the start button assembly that is the problem. It may be sticking and keeping the headlight circuit interrupted.
But if that's the case, why would I get voltage where the bulb plugs in? and how would you get that unstuck? I did open the Start Button switch, but I couldn't get any voltage reading at the start button...I'm not sure what was supposed to be used for the reading. I've pushed the start button and it seems to work as it should (cut-out)...what can be done with that switch specifically to make sure the cut-out is not the culprit? Thanks.
Here's what I saw when I opened the Start Button Switch: Those are the only points I could see, and I'm not sure how to get a reading here...I tried every combination I could think of, but got nothing, though with my lack of electrical expertise on motorcycles I would not assume that there is no juice flowing through there. Also, here's the switch the headlight gets connected to:
Try putting the bulb in the bulb holder, and then checking with the meter, at the plug. I'm guessing that with the bulb in, the power or ground is not making good enough connection with the load of a bulb. That, or maybe taking it apart and testing it will have "fixed" whatever was wrong. Ryan
I was not able to get the voltage while the bulb is on (not enough hands), but I did notice that the voltage dropped to 5-6V after a few mins of the engine being on. I turned the high beam on and the voltage dropped to 0. Tried a few times with the same result. I guess I'll be opening the only thing I hadn't yet - the high/low beam switch.
Ok. I opened the light switch, and I'm not sure what I'm looking for. For one, I can't get a voltage reading. How is that done here? This is what I'm looking at: (you can see the turn signal switch still attached, and the high/low beam in my fingers) close up shot...it looks good to my decidedly un-expert eyes... How do I test voltage here? What should I be looking for? Thanks again!
It may be easier if the ground lead of your meter has an alligator clip on it. Then you can clip it to a good ground (or batt) and just meter the switch ect with the pos lead. This doesn't work for everything, but for most situations it is easier than trying to hold both leads and whatever you are metering. Ryan
Moto13, I agree with Ryan. Ground your black (neg.) lead from your meter to the battery negative terminal with a clip. Now redo all those test starting at headlight, etc. You know that the bulb is good at this point, so see what voltage you get at high beam reference to battery negative. Then do same with low beam. See what you get. Remember, this is all in reference to the battery negative terminal. let us know.
Did you check the headlight fuse? Its on its own in the wire harness under the gas tank, 10 amp, white, marked headlamp?