Final Drive Disassembly Video

Hey Guys,

I used a video (about an hour in length) that someone put together in 2003 as a basis for my final drive rebuild. I took video of everything, and decided to put together a higher quality video for disassembly, measurement, and reassembly. This is the disassembly video.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8_4lpAFLqk

I'd appriciate it if you guys could take the time to watch it, and let me know if there is anything wrong with the information presented in the video. The last thing I want to do in creating any sort of video is spread mis-information.

Thanks for your time guys.

Thanks for taking the time to put that together.

Constructive comment: Anytime you pull on the outer race of a bearing to remove it, you're going to damage it. Use a bearing splitter between the bearing and hub to pull from the inner race. Same goes on the install, press on from the inner race.

Nice work. This is likely how most of us would approach repair of a leaking FD or one with damaged CWB.

It will be interesting if you will compare the feel of the old CWB to the new one. Also, do you observe any fretting of the balls or races in the old CWB?

Awaiting the remaining installments.

Great video! Now how do I put it back together??!!!!

Great video.....thanks for sharing

Thanks for the feedback folks. I'll make sure to put a note in the video about how pulling the bearing the way I did, will damage it.

Very good point. I'll try to think a way to show this, as I think it'd be helpful for people that haven't gotten "the feel" of a good and bad bearing yet.

I have not yet taken the bearing cage apart, but from the looks of the metal and the play I felt in the old CWB, it would appear that the races started to wear, oddly enough only on one side. Confused me, because the play in the wheel was only felt at 3 and 6 oclock, which is what everyone seems to say is indicative of failing, or loose pivot bearings.

Coming soon! Takes me a bit of time to splice the videos together, so bear with me. It seems like some people might benefit from instructions like this, so I'll definitely complete the set.

Thanks for making it. Timely, I just found play in my FD today. Hurry with the next video.

Nice job Rebel. I won't be so intimidated next time.

When using heat, expand the outer, female cover. When removing or installing the large bearing from the inner cover, heat the cover until the bearing drops out without hammering. Freeze the crown wheel assembly then heat the inner race of the bearing. I like a small pencil torch.

Nice video, well done. I also look forward to the shimming/reassembly part.
Coming out of LT-land, FD failures are of immense interest... (I have a rebuilt spare in the garage, just in case )

I'm subscribed on your Utube channel now

Thanks folks. I've got about an hour of a half of shimming footage I still need to cut through. Summer in Montana is only about 3 months and we've had a string of great days; so I've been riding!

In hindsight, it probably would have been better to just hang on to all the footage, and release it all at once when its -27 out. In November.

Very nice video,
my drive is apart right now (with everything else ) so it is a nice help to see it done.
I'm going nuts reading the manual (use bmw tool for this and different bmw tool for that sheesh lol)

thanks for that

Jerry

Thanks, great help here.

Sorry I never followed up on you def; wasn't ignoring you, I just had to get the new bearing to compare.

The old "worn" bearing was in fact significantly worn in the races. The balls didn't show any discernable wear on visual inspection. I don't have an accurate way of measuring the play in the old and the new bearing; It was more than noticeable, but only in one direction. I decided to replace it with a new one, and use the half-worn bearing as a pack-along spare on long trips.

I ended up using a .40mm shim after measurements. The previous shim was an .85, which explains why the bearing started to die after only 8,000 miles.

As mentioned, I can flip it over and likely get many thousands of miles on the non-worn side of the bearing if needed. I might put that to the test one day.

Thanks for a great video ,yes you guessed it changed the final drive oil on the weekend ,and have the beginnings of something serious, now in pieces ,now will become a regular maintenance item ,actually saw a 1150gs today with a vent pipe connected ,interesting .Look forward to the next installment ,as I feel the correct shimming is critical

Nice job, RP! I'm really looking forward to the reassembly video. Are you going to show us how to measure the shims?

PS: You hammer like a girl.

Good work.

Yes, an otherwise intact but worn CWB is really only half worn when removed from a FD where there was preload. If the cage is OK, turn it over, re-shim and reinstal. I would even use the same seal if there were no leaks.

So, that means a no-cost FD repair.

RP, you're brilliant!

Many thanks for the vid, looking forward to the next instalment.