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Old 11-08-2005, 12:32 PM   #16
Loadedagain
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Location: West Vancouver, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lacrestadr
The grip install instructions say to glue the grips on. Should I Wire them instead? Seems like you would rip everything out if you needed to take them off at a later date, if they're glued

you're prolly right about glue vs wire. i glue mine on. if they are destroyed when i change the grips (a couple years down the road) i'll replace them. they are half the price of new grips so i'm not overly concerned about 'em. plus... the wires will probably get a little nick (meaning the warmers get replaced) or cut before the grips are done anyway.
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Old 11-08-2005, 01:44 PM   #17
eaglej
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Just be real careful about how you tuck the pigtail of the wire after you snip it off. If you tuck it in (normal style) and it pokes through the thin mylar coating on the grips, you will get some smokin hot safety wire.

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Old 11-08-2005, 02:17 PM   #18
Trevor S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lacrestadr
You're right, the right grip is hotter. I did put a layer of electrical tape under the left. I also put some of that expandable insulation foam in the bar end on the left side, I guess I should've put two or three tape layers on??
I adopted a different approach. Had a short piece of undersized electrical conduit bored out ever so slightly, slammed it onto the handlebar with a rubber mallet (tight as all get out, which is what you want) then used a throttle side handgrip (it's thinner then the standard LHS grip) to match the thickness of the RHS, this provides the same insulation to the LHS as on the RHS and leads to equal "grip heating". Both LHS and RHS grips are safety wired to the bar.
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Old 11-08-2005, 02:31 PM   #19
Loadedagain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor S
I adopted a different approach. Had a short piece of undersized electrical conduit bored out ever so slightly, slammed it onto the handlebar with a rubber mallet (tight as all get out, which is what you want) then used a throttle side handgrip (it's thinner then the standard LHS grip) to match the thickness of the RHS, this provides the same insulation to the LHS as on the RHS and leads to equal "grip heating". Both LHS and RHS grips are safety wired to the bar.
hey.... you're a fart smeller.
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Old 11-08-2005, 05:33 PM   #20
yater
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I just installed mine. I replaced the tank with an ims and used one of the old tank bolts for a ground since it wasn't used with the new tank. I tapped the license plate light for power. Pretty simple install
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:31 PM   #21
habanero
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I'm attempting to wire my heated grips into the ignition switch...can anyone tell me which wire is the hot? Red/white?

thanks, scott

edit...

got em working via the headllight.

habanero screwed with this post 10-18-2007 at 12:34 AM
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Old 12-08-2009, 02:17 PM   #22
Brucasso
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Question

Loaded,

I was wondering if you had a stator upgrade to run the electric vest? If not did you have problems?

I read Flannys electrical post http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82712 and many others about stator upgrades, 640 electrical, etc...

Is the stator upgrade required for heated vests and grips or just careful electrical management required. Looking at what heated grips and jackets draw, that figure is the Max it will draw, usually your not drawing the max all the time.. I guess the the vest can be run and not the grips and vice versa.

I know this thread is old, but hope someone can enlighten me.

Why did I sell my 950 and buy a 640???


Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain
i ran a power lead from the battery with a fuse right at the battery to a relay up front. then all accessories are wired from that out. gps, road book, grip warmers, heated vest, radio, etc... added a bunch of switches to the dash to accomodate all the added gear.

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