ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-30-2005, 06:37 PM   #1
matteo OP
HPM
 
matteo's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 498
Need help removing alternator bolt

I am looking for some help. I have a seeping oil seal behind my alternator. I'm trying to remove the bolt in the center of the alternator, and it is a being a SOB.

I have the bike in 1st gear and have a foot on the rear brake. I can't a real good jerk on the bolt and it won't come out. I tried rapping on the bolt with a hammer. No luck. I tried to get my manual impact hammper in there, but there is no room.

I've done this on my /2 and it was not this hard. Please, I need help.

Once I get this done, I'm thinking of replacing the alternator with the EnduraLast alternator.
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EDLBMW.html
I've read some good reports on this product. Anyone have a bad experience?
matteo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2005, 07:07 PM   #2
Frank Warner
Traveller
 
Frank Warner's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 6,593
Try it with the engine hot.
Use yer gloves or you'll burn yourself on those flamin exhaust pipes.
Frank Warner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2005, 10:18 PM   #3
Donkey Hotey
De Jo Momma
 
Donkey Hotey's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: 20 Mule Team Trail (Palmdale, Ca)
Oddometer: 10,801
The hot engine is a good idea. You also know that you need a puller to get the rotor off, right? If you're not prepared for it, you can make your own (I did). The inside of the rotor has threads that are larger than the center screw. I forgot the diameter.

The puller looks like a normal bolt with a long threadless nose. It fits those threads in the rotor and goes all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole in the crankshaft. You screw it into the rotor, the long protrusion bottoms in the crank and you keep cranking until it pushes the rotor off the crank.

The trick is making your own puller. All I did was get a bolt that fit the rotor threads. Next I measured down into the crankshaft with a straw or something for reference. I cut the shank out of a smaller diameter bolt, pushed it down into the crank hole, then followed with the bolt. Crank away and the rotor pops right off.
__________________
Greg
Donkey Hotey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2005, 11:14 PM   #4
bcostell
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Location: San Fran Bay Area
Oddometer: 192
As the other guys say...you need a puller, but first you need to get the bolt out. I find that a air impact wrench removes just about anything....the alternator bolt would be NO problem. The bolt is torqued to less than 20ft/lbs so I just tap the end of my ratchet and it breaks free. I only need to worry about being in gear for tightening it up again.

If you're removing all of the stuff to upgrade the alternator you might want to think about replacing the timing chain and tensioner - it's only about another hours work once you have all of the electrics out of the way.

On the upgrade, I've fitted both of the 400 and 450w systems.

400W System - a neat system with an upgraded diode board on solid mounts with an uprated voltage regulator. Same basic configuration as stock, just higher spec and some of the stock systems weakness's ironed out.


Three rotors - stock, 400W and 450W. The 450W rotor is the lightest. It's a lump of aluminum with permanent magnets - no brushes



450W System. All of the controls are external to the timing cover.


Location of 450W Rectifier/Regulator Unit (on a GS). This replaces the regulator and rectifier combo used in the stock and 400w systems.
bcostell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 06:22 AM   #5
sharkey
XLV750R
 
sharkey's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Oddometer: 875
Quote:
Originally Posted by matteo
I have the bike in 1st gear and have a foot on the rear brake.
Put it in 5th. The engine has less leverage against the rear wheel
that way, and there's less play. Buy a set of allen key sockets
and a breaker bar ... it'll come out.

Quote:
Once I get this done, I'm thinking of replacing the alternator with the EnduraLast alternator.
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EDLBMW.html
I've read some good reports on this product. Anyone have a bad experience?
Just installed mine tonight ... all good so far.

-----sharks
sharkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 09:12 AM   #6
jtwind
Wisconsin Airhead
 
jtwind's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Madison WI
Oddometer: 3,508
A note on removing the rotor. You can't just put the remover bolt in and crank away. At least half the time you will bend the puller and get nowhere. The trick is to turn the puller so it is very snug and rap the end of the puller with a hammer/rock etc. The rotor will pop off. Be prepared to catch it! JT
jtwind is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 07:41 PM   #7
matteo OP
HPM
 
matteo's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 498
Absolutely fuckin' fantastic. I got the bolt off. Putting it into fifth gear was the trick and a foot on the brake. There was no play on the crank while I gave the allen wrench a few jerks. It came right out.

I have the puller I used from the /2 rebuild. Worked just fine.

Now that the alternator is off, I can replace the seals. I have the EnduroLast on order.

Thanks to everyone for the help.
matteo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 08:26 PM   #8
matteo OP
HPM
 
matteo's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 498
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcostell

450W System. All of the controls are external to the timing cover.

That is one clean engine. It is going to take me some work before mine will look so good.
matteo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 08:31 PM   #9
sharkey
XLV750R
 
sharkey's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Oddometer: 875
Quote:
Originally Posted by matteo
Absolutely fuckin' fantastic. I got the bolt off. Putting it into fifth gear was the trick and a foot on the brake. There was no play on the crank while I gave the allen wrench a few jerks. It came right out.
Glad to hear it worked!

The puller I've got came with the bike, it's just a M8x1.25x80mm bolt with the last 28mm turned down to 6mm diameter and the end rounded off nicely. Took almost no torque to make the rotor pop off.

-----sharks
sharkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 08:48 PM   #10
LoFlow
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Kitsap
Oddometer: 953
So guys, I now carry a spare rotor, diode board, and regulater with me at all times on my pd.

My question is, with the 450 watt system do you have to carry any spares? It seems like a really nice system. Thanks for any info. bye
LoFlow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 09:31 PM   #11
sharkey
XLV750R
 
sharkey's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Oddometer: 875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lc4pd
So guys, I now carry a spare rotor, diode board, and regulater with me at all times on my pd.

My question is, with the 450 watt system do you have to carry any spares? It seems like a really nice system. Thanks for any info. bye
Spare 30A blade fuse?

In theory, there's nothing to burn out: no brushes, no rotor windings, no toasty-hot diodes. If you're planning on traversing the icy plateau of Leng, far beyond the reaches of mortal postal deliveries, you could presumably obtain a spare regulator and a spare set of stator windings -- they're OEM (Ducati Energia?) units and the fancy EME machining is the rotor adaptor and the stator winding mounting rings.

Only time will tell how reliable these units are, but given that they're a hell of a lot simpler and better cooled than the stock setup, I'd be amazed if they don't prove more reliable.

-----sharks (Disclaimer: just a happy customer)
sharkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 09:37 PM   #12
bcostell
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Location: San Fran Bay Area
Oddometer: 192
I'm taking a loooong trek next year. The only spare I'm taking is this regulator/rectifier unit. I've wired it so I can do a quick swap - my guess would be a half hours changeover - lift the tank and undo a couple of bolts and connectors. Apart from that only the field coils could fail and I question the chances of that.
bcostell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 09:59 PM   #13
Frank Warner
Traveller
 
Frank Warner's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 6,593
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcostell
Apart from that only the field coils could fail and I question the chances of that.
That would be stator coils (the field comes from the magnets).

The usuall failure mode (for this entire charging system) for the regulator/rectifier falure - it also will boil the battery dry. Monitoring the battery voltage while riding (just like a standard airhead system) is a good idea (saves the battery if your are quick enough).

Stator failures are less frequent.

The fues holder on the orange wire is not splash proof. Water proof ones can be had (and have much better contact to the fuse) [Sharks - Dick Smith has them about $5 each - I've changed over to them from the previous $3 ones due to the contact problem {yes on the K75G/S}].
Frank Warner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2005, 02:51 PM   #14
sharkey
XLV750R
 
sharkey's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Oddometer: 875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Warner
The fues holder on the orange wire is not splash proof. Water proof ones can be had (and have much better contact to the fuse) [Sharks - Dick Smith has them about $5 each - I've changed over to them from the previous $3 ones due to the contact problem {yes on the K75G/S}].
My kit came with a rubber fuse holder with waterproof snap-on lid ... seems like
pretty good contacts, too. So I just used that. At some point I'd like to get hold of a waterproof fusebox though, and put all three circuits (main power, light power, generator) through three 30A fuses in the one box ... it'd save having three seperate ring lugs on the battery, if nothing else.

Rode the bike into work today, the generator has added a faint whine to the engine noise, only really audible when stationary and wearing an open-face. Presumably the fins on the rotor whirring around, or maybe it's just echoing around in that
vast open space :-).

-----sharks
sharkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2005, 08:54 AM   #15
SmutMug
Banned
 
Joined: May 2004
Oddometer: 40
I got my kit on Monday night. It's going in my '83R80T first for a few months and then will be transplanted in the R80G/S. In the RT, there's not a lot of space (complicated due to the fact the voltage regulator decided to have spun screws), so I am going to attach the rectifier to the front right frame tube. This locates it invisibly right behind the grille. It's directly in the airflow that way as well. I bought a car-quality ground cable that will go to the battery negative and I'l get another ground somewhere as backup.



As well, I bought a voltage meter from Datel that is very accurate. They are for sale here: http://tinyurl.com/7h5os This will allow me to keep an eye on things.



When I transplant this unit to the G/S, the real test will begin. I'm leaving April 10, '06 for Europe for a 2 year around the world trip. A big part of the incentive for the Enduralast is reliability. I'll take an extra rectifier, but I can leave rotors, diode boards and the like behind.



As well, I’ll be charging a laptop and batteries from the bike battery, so maximum charge after a day of loitering through Eastern villages is going to be needed for all this. I ride a lot too, so it’ll be nice to have one less worry during my regular motoring around here.
SmutMug is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 03:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014