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Old 12-28-2011, 10:29 AM   #6121
redpillar
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the tank is a reservoir. as the coolant expands the tank fills, as it cools it returns to the rad. You need the tank.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:49 AM   #6122
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkblacksheep View Post
Greetings friends. I bought a leftover 09 KLR and I love it. I also have a Honda CRF230F and CRF150F. Great machines for MY purposes. I am a mechanic by trade and I value simplicity. I have done alot of contemplating regarding a 250 dualsport and also considered a DRZ400. The KLX250S is the most appealing to me. Please keep in mind I am keeping all other machines and finances are not part of the choice. In MY book FI is for street bikes so will not be considered. Im not knocking anyone elses picks. Soooo the question is what can I expect for REAL WORLD valve adjustments,oil consumption, and general livability.
I share your value of simplicity (owning and pushing a ((2)) KTM 690 enduros did that for me ); interesting that a "mechanic by trade" values simplicity. I guess you must get sick of working on vehicles and just want to ride. Makes sense to me!

You probably already know this, but as for FI vs Carb and weight reduction, the 2006/07 models are carbs and about 17lbs lighter than the 2009 models on. I don't think the US models have FI yet though most places do.

I've got a 2008 model here in Malaysia which is carbed, the lighter version but with a simple (no tach) digital dash. First owner put 5k on it, removed the dash/odometer and put probably a huge number of kilometers on it though I'll never know how many. He was a police/ "jungle cop" (patrol the jungles for communists & drugs) and used the bike for work. By his recollection he took the odometer off in the first month and then rode it for 2 more years.
I got the bike and put about 2k KM on it before I fixed the odometer at which point it read 5,xxx km. In the next 11 months I took it up to 29,600km at which point I had the 351cc kit, mikuni pumper carb and new exhaust installed.

I had the valves ajusted when I got it - they were quite tight. Checked them again 27K km later when installing the 351. Nothing too bad, but I did end up replacing 2 valves.
Not much wear on the cylender walls when the engine was opened up.

Total mileage at that point would be 29,600 km on the odometer + at aproximately 2,000 km I put on before I fixed the odometer + "X" - the amount the original owner put on in his 2 years of daily driving.

Thus at least 31,600 km and my guess being 60,000 km but who knows.

In my time with it I thought the CDI went out once. Bike wouldn't start and there was no spark - happened to me late at night only about 500 meters from a small motorcycle shop that was still open. I pushed it there and left it and in the morning they said the CDI was out; I was busy and couldn't go down. They wanted 1,200 ringet (about $420 US) for the CDI and I flipped! I said I was picking it up in an hour and I'd fix it myself. They then said they knew a guy who could rebuild it for $300 RM ($100 US) which I had them do. No problems with my "rebuilt" CDI HOWEVER, a good KLX mechanic here I trust told me that it is impossible here to rebuild that CDI - ecspecially in 1 1/2 hours like they did. He thinks it was a certain wire that notoriously breaks, and that they found and fixed that and scammed me for the "rebuilt CDI".

That and a new battery have been the only problems I have had in my 26K KM of ownership. I change the oil every 4,000 -6,000 KM and have never cleaned the carb. It was getting harder to start towards the end. I'd feel better in the remote jungle places I go with a back up kick starter which is possible to install.
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:17 AM   #6123
redpillar
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correction on the weight difference between 06 and 09 models. the weight given in 06 was dry weight while in 09 it was the weight including gas and oil. They are virtually the same weight.
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:28 AM   #6124
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpillar View Post
correction on the weight difference between 06 and 09 models. the weight given in 06 was dry weight while in 09 it was the weight including gas and oil. They are virtually the same weight.
Thanks for pointing that out... I was wondering where the huge difference came from. Can't remember where, but in one of the bike mags I remember a comparison with the wr250r and I think that came out to with a lb of each other wet.
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Old 01-01-2012, 03:52 AM   #6125
dgmeister
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yo chiggers

happy christmas and new year

just took the bike camping, probably about 700kms over road and trails
of sand and gravel. cruising at 110 kph over gravel and the whole nine yards.
not saying its a 450, and the engine needs to get revving high before you get going, but
after breathing and carby mods it fucken rips, and if you say it doesn't, you are chad reed.
4th gear on trails the things goin 100kph with buckets of torque
lofting the front over lips, power sliding, scary enough for me.
going fast enough to start fucking up.
had a ball!!!!!!!!!
and if you think im bullshitting i don't care
its almost 250 racing fast, and with 6th its a half okay road bike too

bike has done around 53,000 kms . it is a '07 AUS model
i have had it from new. only other bikes i have briefly ridden are 125's
gpx 250, and cbr 600 f4i

get the carb modded to aussy spec. (if you a yankee)
i recommend staintune exhausts
get rid of the pice of shite yank exhaust fast!
adjust the suspension damping

my valves have only been done once , but are tight
being a mechanic this would be simple bike for you to work on
good synthetic oil after break in is good for high revs that you need to ride at
lasts about 1000kms or less depending how hard you thrash

for a simple road trail 250 four stroke, i don't think you could get better
(but i haven't ridden the competition)
great bike
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:35 AM   #6126
Landon
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I have had my KLX for about a month now and really got it out for the first time this weekend. I did some of the performance mods: KDX snorkle, drilled slide, installed N1TC needle, clip, and collar, installed #125 main jet from Kawa, and went to the #40 pilot jet, also installed FMF megabomb with Q4 exhaust. Fuel screw set 2 turns out.

I rode both saturday and sunday. Both days were basically all trail riding down in KY on S-tree, Turkeyfoot, and Redbird crest. Saturday I hit reserve at 47 miles and put the bike on the trailer at 52, whin I fueled the bike up I put in 1.85 gallons (just about out). So thats 28 MPG. Sunday morning I took the air box lid off and rode without it as I was thinking maybe is was not getting enough air flow. I also checked the air filter and there was nothing unusual with it, a bit dirty but not terrible. Sunday I hit reserve at 52 miles, I have not filled up yet to see how much I put in but I still don't think I am getting much better than 30 MPG.

Now I know I was on trails and that performance mods will affect fuel mileage, but it shouldn't be this bad, I was expecting to get 45-50 even with the mods. Where should I start? What should I check and look for?
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:01 AM   #6127
Lutz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landon View Post
...
Now I know I was on trails and that performance mods will affect fuel mileage, but it shouldn't be this bad, I was expecting to get 45-50 even with the mods. Where should I start? What should I check and look for?
Look for fuel coming out of the carb overflow. Most likely candidate is an incorrectly set float height.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:29 AM   #6128
markk53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landon View Post
I am not to concerned about cutting bike weight. I have more than enough weight to cut from myself before I ever need to worry about 5-10lbs of bike weight.
My father pointed out that wisdom to me as I was drilling holes in the solid mount Sherpa T foot pegs and other places on my trials bike. Of course at a "hefty" 140 lb (now about 40 over that) I didn't have 5 lb to lose, but that one foot peg broke when coming off a 5' drop off... shouldn't have drilled the pegs.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:38 AM   #6129
mikesova
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Has anyone been able to successfully remove the grip from the throttle tube without damaging the grip for it to be re-used?
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:39 AM   #6130
bumblebee1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk53 View Post
My father pointed out that wisdom to me as I was drilling holes in the solid mount Sherpa T foot pegs and other places on my trials bike. Of course at a "hefty" 140 lb (now about 40 over that) I didn't have 5 lb to lose, but that one foot peg broke when coming off a 5' drop off... shouldn't have drilled the pegs.
I'm in the same frame of mind as your father (probably about the same age too).
It's a hell of a lot harder to lose the weight at my age than it was at 20.
I'm at 200 and would love to drop to 180.
At that weight, what difference does 10 lbs make?
It's 2% less weight in all, bike and rider.
I prefer finding a way to carry my luggage and tool kit lower down.
I think that would make a hell of a difference.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:49 AM   #6131
bumblebee1
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Originally Posted by mikesova View Post
Has anyone been able to successfully remove the grip from the throttle tube without damaging the grip for it to be re-used?
I was told to use compressed air to loosen the glue.
Just wiggle the nozzle in there between the grip and plastic and pull the trigger.
Never tried it though.
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:49 AM   #6132
Landon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutz View Post
Look for fuel coming out of the carb overflow. Most likely candidate is an incorrectly set float height.
A buddy did the rejetting for me. How is the float height adjusted? What is the correct setting?

Landon screwed with this post 01-02-2012 at 11:58 AM
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:00 PM   #6133
Landon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee1 View Post
I was told to use compressed air to loosen the glue.
Just wiggle the nozzle in there between the grip and plastic and pull the trigger.
Never tried it though.
I did that with my ST1300 when I installed heated grips and it worked. When I change the grips on my KLR there was no chance of doing that as the factory must have used a magical super glue that was there for life. I had to cut the grip off which was a process in itself, use sand paper to clean the glue material off and install the new grips. Don't know how the KLX grips are, but I would have an extra set just incase.
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:03 PM   #6134
IDRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landon View Post
A buddy did the rejetting for me. How is the float height adjusted?
If your carb is still on, you can check float height / fuel level by connecting a clear, plastic hose to the bowl drain and looping it up (best to zip tie or wire it) along the carb. Carb should be level (bike on stand and adjusted to make carb level). Open the drain screw and see where the level rises to. My manual says "1.5 mm above to 0.5 mm below the float bowl mating surface" for "Service fuel level."

Manual also says float height is 17.0 +/- 2 mm.

Adjust by bending the tang on the float arm.

From the manual:

Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine (KLX250D) or turn the ignition switch OFF (KLX250E). Do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
•Turn the fuel tap to the OFF position.
• Remove the carburetor, and hold it upright on a stand (see Carburetor Removal).
• Prepare an auxiliary fuel tank and connect the fuel hose to the carburetor.
• Connect a fuel level gauge [A] to overflow hose [F].
Special Tool - Fuel Level Gauge: 57001-1017
• Hold the gauge vertically against the side of the carburetor body so that the "zero" line[B] is several millimeters higher than the float bowl mating surface [D].
•Turn the fuel tap to the ON position to the carburetor then turn out the
carburetor drain screw [C] a few turns. •Wait until the fuel level in the gauge settles.
• Keeping the gauge vertical, slowly lower the gauge until the "zero" line is even with the bottom edge of the carburetor body.
NOTE
ODo not lower the "zero" line below the bottom edge of the carburetor body. If the gauge is lowered and then raised again, the fuel level measured shows somewhat higher than the actual fuel level. If the gauge is lowered too far, dump the fuel into a suitable container and start the procedure over again.
• Read the fuel level [E] in the gauge and compare to the specification. Screw in the carburetor drain screw.
•Turn the fuel tap to the OFF position and remove the fuel level gauge. *lf the fuel level is incorrect, adjust it (see Service Fuel Level Adjustment).
Service Fuel Level
(above the bottom edge of ihe carburetor body) Standard: 0.5 ± 1 mm

Sen/ice Fuel Level Adjustment
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine (KLX250D) or turn the ignition switch OFF (KLX250E). Do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
• Remove the carburetor, and drain the fuel into a suitable container.
• Remove the float bowl.
• Drive out the pilot pin [A] and remove the float [B].
• Bend the tang [A] on the float arm very slightly to change the float
height. O Increasing the float height lowers the fuel level and decreasing the float
height raises the fuel level.
Float Height Standard:
17.0 mm
NOTE
ODo not push the needle rod [B] in during the float height measurement.
[A] Float Bowl Mating Surface
[B] Float Valve Needle Rod
[C] Float
[D] Float Height
•Assemble the carburetor, and recheck the fuel level. *lf the fuel level cannot be adjusted by this method, the float or the float valve is damaged.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:05 PM   #6135
Landon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
If your carb is still on, you can check float height / fuel level by connecting a clear, plastic hose to the bowl drain and looping it up (best to zip tie or wire it) along the carb. Carb should be level (bike on stand and adjusted to make carb level). Open the drain screw and see where the level rises to. My manual says "1.5 mm above to 0.5 mm below the float bowl mating surface" for "Service fuel level."

Manual also says float height is 17.0 +/- 2 mm.

Adjust by bending the tang on the float arm.
Does that mean the clear hose should only loop down .5mm from the float bowl bottom? Could it be possible that the float bowl screw was left open and fuel is spilling out? I would think I would of noticed a fuel puddle in the garage and driveway when I have run the bike if that was the case.
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