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Old 04-23-2012, 07:55 PM   #6631
pluric
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I had some PMs asking about the pumper carb.
I hope this helps.....







Comes with some extra jets too.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:59 PM   #6632
Airvent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinLarry View Post
Does anyone have a set of 2006/07 shrouds for the KLX? I smashed mine to pieces! Thanks!
Its about time!
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:24 PM   #6633
mikesova
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This thread has been light on pictures lately...

Here's my bike after the new motion pro lite loc's were installed and a big beefy D606 on the back.

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2001 Yamaha TW200 (Wife's bike)
2005 Yamaha FZ6

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Old 04-24-2012, 09:01 AM   #6634
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluric View Post
I have a KLX pumper carb if anyone is looking for one. $200 shipped lower 48.
Looks like we have a taker on the carb.

Thanks to all for the interest.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:24 AM   #6635
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluric View Post
Looks like we have a taker on the carb.

Thanks to all for the interest.

Score!!! :)

Thanks, Richard!!

Rob
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:32 AM   #6636
Aybars
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Oil ; Again & Again...

Guys I have seen many posts, I had read many articles on engine oil but couldn't satisfy myself for KLX. Formerly a KTM LC4 640 Adv. owner, I was choosing and changing my oil. New baby KLX has an amazing oil change interval on user manual! 7500kms. between oil changes! I'm not thinking about to follow it; 5000kms. is my limit. So I'd like to use the best oil that I can use for it. Here in Turkey, even the options are less; we can find easily ELF / Total since their factory is at my hometown.

I'm thinking about to use 10w60 fully synthetic for recent change. Bike is on 5554kms. today. And this will be 3rd oil change.

By the way, I'm changing oil filter with stainless steel reusable one. What are your opinions about that?
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:23 AM   #6637
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aybars View Post
Guys I have seen many posts, I had read many articles on engine oil but couldn't satisfy myself for KLX. Formerly a KTM LC4 640 Adv. owner, I was choosing and changing my oil. New baby KLX has an amazing oil change interval on user manual! 7500kms. between oil changes! I'm not thinking about to follow it; 5000kms. is my limit. So I'd like to use the best oil that I can use for it. Here in Turkey, even the options are less; we can find easily ELF / Total since their factory is at my hometown.

I'm thinking about to use 10w60 fully synthetic for recent change. Bike is on 5554kms. today. And this will be 3rd oil change.

By the way, I'm changing oil filter with stainless steel reusable one. What are your opinions about that?

The thing only takes something like 1.5 quarts... I change mine every 2000 miles (3200 km) or just over twice as often as the manual states. I do like the washable filters; I'd love to have one but they're expensive so I haven't been ready to spend the money yet.

I run Rotella T6 (5W40) in mine... it's cheap and available locally.

Rob
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:30 PM   #6638
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vamtnman View Post
For all you guys adding 331 or 351 kits and looking to shed a few pounds, I have an answer for you: Husqvarna TE310.

http://www.cycleworld.com/2011/04/08...-first-ride-2/

For all the labor and added expense, you can buy a bike off the dealer floor that will blow the socks off any Japanese dual sport made. I figure by the time you spend all the time and money on juicing up the KLX250S, you will have spent the big bucks that the TE310 cost and still not have comparable performance.

Let the Sh*t Storm begin!

Me, I plan to add a skid plate, hand guards and maybe mod the seat and use the bike as it was designed; a simple, fun, economical, reliable dual sport.
Cycleworld thought the KTM EXC350 blew the Husky away. Bottom line though is both the Husky and KTM are fragile, delicate machines in comparison to the KLX and need to be treated like a delicate flower .

I just did a 10K km trip on my 351 including venturing into the poorest country on the planet. I changed the oil every 5,000km whether it needed it or not, smashed into waves while riding on the beach (meant to wash the salt water off but forgot). Almost lost it in some quicksand and put it thru some nasty abuse to drag it out.

Cycleword, dirtrider etc can't really do tests of what's most important to many riders - reliabilty, for 2 reasons:

1.) It takes a long time to test for long term reliability.
2.) (More importantly) Probably less than 20% of the magazine's revenue comes from the cover price. Most of it comes from advertising of the bikes they would be testing creating a conflict of interest.

That being said, I think some of them have done it (intentionally ignored the reliability issue) for so long they are being honest when they say a KLR sucks but really are confused as to why more people buy them than any other dual sport... Don't they read our magazine? they ask scratching their heads...

I didn't get the KLX because it was cheaper than a KTM. I'd be happy to pay twice as much as say a KTM 450EXC for a bike that:

a. Was up to 15 lbs heavier.
b. Had only 85% of the power.
c. Had suspension just on par with the EXC.
d. BUT had an engine that lasted 10X longer with maintenance schedules at least 3X farther apart.

A bike like that doesn't exist and so many are trying to make one. I know many have the KLX because it is cheaper, but that's not all of us.
It's a common minconception that "racing" a bike proves its reliability. For example a guy does 5 hare scrambles and 2 enduros on a KTM and has no mechanical issues and so thinks the bike is "reliable". That's sissy territory!

That doesn't compare to droning freeway miles or commuting to work every day on a bike. (The way the vast majority of non Western countries use their motorcycle - commute everyday then play on the weekend.)
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:00 PM   #6639
djchan
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331 or 351 kit?

These kits have been available simultaneously now for a few years. Has there been a consensus on the old 331 vs 351 question? Specifically, is the 351 kit worth $100 more? IIRC, some say the 331 makes more peak HPs.

I've seen a lot of satisfied customers with the 331. Does the 351 offer more of the same or is the added power distributed differently?

TIA
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Occupying the stable - 2007 Suzuki Bandit 1250, 2002 KTM LC4E, and a 2007 KLX250S.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:02 PM   #6640
Dan888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinLarry View Post
Does anyone have a set of 2006/07 shrouds for the KLX? I smashed mine to pieces! Thanks!
Good luck Cuz , I have been looking for a set for quite a while.
Dan
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:00 PM   #6641
DurtDevil
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Valves question for 351

Finally had the 351 kit and carb installed. Runs great, love the extra twist. I've put a 100 miles on, lots of run hot/cool down/repeat time, plenty of decelerating to help set gaskets, and 20 miles of trail riding so far... I will log another 100 miles by this weekend, and rhen will do a 100 mile trail event this weekend. When my mechanic put the kit in, he didn't check or adjust valves... He'd just adjusted them 700 miles earlier pre-kit... But he wasn't sure what the new valve clearances are for the new set up.

1) anyone know what the valve clearance should be set at? Is it different?
2) will I be okay putting 3-400 miles on it (150-200 miles of trail) as is?

He will take a look at it next weekend after my ride (and research in the meantime), but I wanted to know before this weekend too. thanks.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:00 AM   #6642
Aybars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
The thing only takes something like 1.5 quarts... I change mine every 2000 miles (3200 km) or just over twice as often as the manual states. I do like the washable filters; I'd love to have one but they're expensive so I haven't been ready to spend the money yet.

I run Rotella T6 (5W40) in mine... it's cheap and available locally.

Rob
Another update from European owner's manual for today; oil change intervals =
1st) 1000kms
2nd) 12.000kms
3rd) 24.000kms

and so on per 12.000kms.

I guess this is a chart mistake!
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:09 PM   #6643
alpiner84
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Kickstand question

I'm online looking for a KLX250SF kickstand to replace the now-too-short kickstand on my KLX250S, and I have two options: ebay or a real shop. On eBay I can find the kickstand, spring, nut and bolt (all lightly used) for $42 including S&H. And here I can find the whole kit new for ~$65 + S&H. What I'm wondering is if I need all the parts (stand, spring, bolt and nut), or if it will be a direct swap of the kickstand, using the same nut, bolt and spring I already have on the bike? If it's just the stand I need, I'll buy it new. If I need the whole kit and caboodle, I'll probably go used. Anyone done this swap before? Thanks.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:02 PM   #6644
Dan888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DurtDevil View Post
Finally had the 351 kit and carb installed. Runs great, love the extra twist. I've put a 100 miles on, lots of run hot/cool down/repeat time, plenty of decelerating to help set gaskets, and 20 miles of trail riding so far... I will log another 100 miles by this weekend, and rhen will do a 100 mile trail event this weekend. When my mechanic put the kit in, he didn't check or adjust valves... He'd just adjusted them 700 miles earlier pre-kit... But he wasn't sure what the new valve clearances are for the new set up.

1) anyone know what the valve clearance should be set at? Is it different?
2) will I be okay putting 3-400 miles on it (150-200 miles of trail) as is?

He will take a look at it next weekend after my ride (and research in the meantime), but I wanted to know before this weekend too. thanks.
Uh, I would have checked them since the bike was all opened up, but if they were good 700 miles ago they shouldn't have moved much, if any, since. I don't know why the clearances would be different with the big jug, and I've never heard anything about them being different after the 351.
Have fun!
Dan
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:25 PM   #6645
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpiner84 View Post
I'm online looking for a KLX250SF kickstand to replace the now-too-short kickstand on my KLX250S, and I have two options: ebay or a real shop. On eBay I can find the kickstand, spring, nut and bolt (all lightly used) for $42 including S&H. And here I can find the whole kit new for ~$65 + S&H. What I'm wondering is if I need all the parts (stand, spring, bolt and nut), or if it will be a direct swap of the kickstand, using the same nut, bolt and spring I already have on the bike? If it's just the stand I need, I'll buy it new. If I need the whole kit and caboodle, I'll probably go used. Anyone done this swap before? Thanks.
Just the stand. The spring, nut and bolt can be reused.
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