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Old 05-25-2012, 09:17 AM   #6826
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandito View Post
Hi,
I've got a 2006 klx 250 that has some work done to it from the previous owner... I'm just trying to figure out what the hell he has done to it.

It runs fine, but it still makes me curious.

The bike has a muzzy full system, it's likely been jetted, in fact I'm sure the carb has been out because the throttle return cable has a kink in it, telling me they bent it slightly in the process.

What I am curious about is the AIRBOX.

This airbox has a hole cut into the top of it that is rounded off... and when I pulled the filter, the strange thing is there is a mesh filter there once you remove the entire filter... but the mesh covers only 3/4 of the round cone surface.

What is the scoop with this?
The airbox sounds stock, mostly anyway. The hole in the top... it sounds like he removed the snorkel. That's the kind of hole that is left afterward.

Then the screen you see inside.. that's stock. My 2010 is the same way. There's some debate (as usual) as to whether or not this screen should be cut out.

Rob
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:08 AM   #6827
bandito
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
The airbox sounds stock, mostly anyway. The hole in the top... it sounds like he removed the snorkel. That's the kind of hole that is left afterward.

Then the screen you see inside.. that's stock. My 2010 is the same way. There's some debate (as usual) as to whether or not this screen should be cut out.

Rob
Thanks. I wonder why they put mesh on only 3/4 of the surface, what would they have been thinking to design it that way?

Weird.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:26 AM   #6828
IDRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandito View Post
Thanks. I wonder why they put mesh on only 3/4 of the surface, what would they have been thinking to design it that way?

Weird.
I bet the PO cut some of it out. Are you speaking of the wire mesh backfire screen?
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:23 PM   #6829
bandito
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
I bet the PO cut some of it out. Are you speaking of the wire mesh backfire screen?
Yes... that is exactly what it is. But it's missing 1/4 of the mesh, I think where the OP needed access to open the airbox breather venthole. (Another mod?)

I think they had the same problem I had tonight when trying to remove it all to inspect it. Removal of the airbox from the bike. So they just modded it with the unit in place. Which explains why the screen doesn't look very decent... and why the whole thing doesn't sit flush up to the face of the airbox, which is no good.

I removed the rear half fender completely, removed the midpipe and final exhaust, the sidecovers, undid the carb et all... all the screws.. even the upper chain roller. Do you think I could figure out the position to get the airbox into to pull it back out of the subframe? No.

And this isn't my first rodeo. I fiddled with this thing for a good hour and a half with no luck. I finally put it all back together. I can remove two of the nuts holding that backfire screen in (which also has the mount for the air filter) but I can't remove the bottom one, I couldn't get a small 8mm drive down in there.

Maybe tomorrow with some better light. I was pretty frustrated when I finally put the tools away. It should be simple to remove these things, not a massive cranial stress session.

The manual is a laugh, it gives you no information. I see the airbox even comes in half, but I don't see how I can do it given the shock reservoir is in the way of two of the screws.

ANGRY evening. LOL!

I wish if people were modding things that if they didn't know what they were doing, they would stop and get some help before butchering something.

The airbox wasn't even on tight FFS..
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:12 AM   #6830
djchan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandito View Post
Yes... that is exactly what it is. But it's missing 1/4 of the mesh, I think where the OP needed access to open the airbox breather venthole. (Another mod?)

I think they had the same problem I had tonight when trying to remove it all to inspect it. Removal of the airbox from the bike. So they just modded it with the unit in place. Which explains why the screen doesn't look very decent... and why the whole thing doesn't sit flush up to the face of the airbox, which is no good.

I removed the rear half fender completely, removed the midpipe and final exhaust, the sidecovers, undid the carb et all... all the screws.. even the upper chain roller. Do you think I could figure out the position to get the airbox into to pull it back out of the subframe? No.

And this isn't my first rodeo. I fiddled with this thing for a good hour and a half with no luck. I finally put it all back together. I can remove two of the nuts holding that backfire screen in (which also has the mount for the air filter) but I can't remove the bottom one, I couldn't get a small 8mm drive down in there.

Maybe tomorrow with some better light. I was pretty frustrated when I finally put the tools away. It should be simple to remove these things, not a massive cranial stress session.

The manual is a laugh, it gives you no information. I see the airbox even comes in half, but I don't see how I can do it given the shock reservoir is in the way of two of the screws.

ANGRY evening. LOL!

I wish if people were modding things that if they didn't know what they were doing, they would stop and get some help before butchering something.

The airbox wasn't even on tight FFS..
Bandito - I was able to remove 3 of the 4 nuts on the backfire screen. I'm gonna get it today. Well, one of us is going down.....

Somehwere in my vast array of tools I have a tiny little 1/4" drive that looks like an extension, but the square drive is simply pinned into the handle. That way the drive can simply rotate through 190 degrees. That makes it a very low clearance drive. If that doesn't work, I'll superglue a small piece of 1/8" flat aluminum to an 8mm socket and make it work out. It's doable.

I just want to avoid the tiny metal flakes that could be left in the airbox and boot if I cut the wire mesh out in situ. I will, however, do that if I need to get rough with it.

I kinda think you may have to remove the shock to get at the airbox.

edit: done deal. Had to sacrifice an old 8mm socket. Used the grinder to shorten it so that it had just enough depth left to engage the nut. That gave me the clearance to get my smallest 1/4" drive on it. Took it off and then used my drill press with a sanding jig to remove the rough bits of wire along the edges.

One more free mod down.

Next up - the airbox plug.
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:00 PM   #6831
bandito
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djchan View Post
Bandito - I was able to remove 3 of the 4 nuts on the backfire screen. I'm gonna get it today. Well, one of us is going down.....

Somehwere in my vast array of tools I have a tiny little 1/4" drive that looks like an extension, but the square drive is simply pinned into the handle. That way the drive can simply rotate through 190 degrees. That makes it a very low clearance drive. If that doesn't work, I'll superglue a small piece of 1/8" flat aluminum to an 8mm socket and make it work out. It's doable.

I just want to avoid the tiny metal flakes that could be left in the airbox and boot if I cut the wire mesh out in situ. I will, however, do that if I need to get rough with it.

I kinda think you may have to remove the shock to get at the airbox.

edit: done deal. Had to sacrifice an old 8mm socket. Used the grinder to shorten it so that it had just enough depth left to engage the nut. That gave me the clearance to get my smallest 1/4" drive on it. Took it off and then used my drill press with a sanding jig to remove the rough bits of wire along the edges.

One more free mod down.

Next up - the airbox plug.
I'll try and rig something up like you did.. will work. It's a ridiculous amount of fiddling required to remove the airbox on this bike. Very poor design, I haven't had this issue before.

I ordered a replacement backfire screen to replace the one that was messed around with by the previous owner. Some people shouldn't be allowed near mechanical devices.

The shock shouldn't have to come out... at least according to the service manual. I spoke to a technician today who said he's never had one off.
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Old 05-26-2012, 05:28 PM   #6832
RCEMT-P
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My bike is currently sitting in the garage in about the same situation. Twice now i've removed the air box. Once for jetting so i could get the carb out, second to clean the air box. Rode in some nasty dust. Both times i just removed the shock. It's not too hard and makes everything that much easier. I also like the fact i can really check the boot for a good seal. This bike is the worst design i've come across as far as making sure you have a leak proof seal. Best of luck.
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Old 05-26-2012, 05:40 PM   #6833
redpillar
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you do not need to remove the air box to remove the carb. it comes out quite easily up through the frame. There is almost on reason to remove the air box except perhaps to paint the frame.
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:01 AM   #6834
linkin5
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The first clue about your mods including your air box is found in your first statment "it runs fine" I wouldn't try real hard to fix a bike like that it should be ridden. It also sound like the person who did it may well have known what they were doing.
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Old 05-27-2012, 04:59 PM   #6835
AeroEngineer
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Does anyone know if the KLX250S and KLX250SF throttle cables are the same length?

I just installed protaper KX low bend bars on my wife's SF and the throttle cables are being pulled slightly when the bars are fully turned (even with everything set as far inward as possible). The clutch cable is ok, but I'd like to be able to give it a bit more slack if possible.

I know I can get custom length cables from Motion Pro, but I'd like to not to have to spend more than necessary. The part numbers for each cable set are different so I'd assume the S cables may be a bit longer? The clutch cables have the same part number.
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Old 05-27-2012, 05:47 PM   #6836
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroEngineer View Post
Does anyone know if the KLX250S and KLX250SF throttle cables are the same length?

I just installed protaper KX low bend bars on my wife's SF and the throttle cables are being pulled slightly when the bars are fully turned (even with everything set as far inward as possible). The clutch cable is ok, but I'd like to be able to give it a bit more slack if possible.

I know I can get custom length cables from Motion Pro, but I'd like to not to have to spend more than necessary. The part numbers for each cable set are different so I'd assume the S cables may be a bit longer? The clutch cables have the same part number.
The "S" throttle cables are about an inch longer. I've got a set of stock-length "S" cables from Motion Pro that I used for a few hundred miles before adding bar risers and needing custom cables. PM me if you're interested.

cjbiker screwed with this post 05-27-2012 at 05:53 PM
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:18 PM   #6837
SamM
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Here's my 2009 KLX250SF that has been reworked for dualsport duty.



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Old 05-28-2012, 01:17 PM   #6838
pluric
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Help!

I was going riding today. Had to slab about 20 miles. Just get to the trail head
and the bike dies. No battery life at all. Starter won't even click. Horn has nothing.
Let it sit for a few minutes and it shows weak battery power. I bump start it goes
about a block and dies again. Once more zero battery. Let it sit about 5 minutes
bump it again and it makes it about a mile. Cuts out and dies. Zero battery.

I thought these would run without a battery???

Anyway, any suggestions? Something is sucking the battery.

It's an 09

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Old 05-28-2012, 01:23 PM   #6839
rgoers
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Same bike I have. Must be a short somewhere... pull the POS lead and put an amp-meter in there to see if it's drawing current with key/power off. If so, go searching for the cause. Might be the v-regulator. They can sometimes cause issues when they're going bad.

Have you disabled the kick-stand switch yet? Those are known for causing starting issues. That was one of the first things I got rid of when I bought my bike.
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:46 PM   #6840
pluric
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Originally Posted by rgoers View Post
Same bike I have. Must be a short somewhere... pull the POS lead and put an amp-meter in there to see if it's drawing current with key/power off. If so, go searching for the cause. Might be the v-regulator. They can sometimes cause issues when they're going bad.

Have you disabled the kick-stand switch yet? Those are known for causing starting issues. That was one of the first things I got rid of when I bought my bike.
I was just checking the bike out while putting it on a charger. I think the plug came off the bottom of the
rectifier. I was just giving wires a little tug/wiggle and it came right off. I shoved it back on to where the retaining
clip snaps in and it would not move. I hope that's all it is. Makes sense as to why the battery couldn't charge.

Would that also make the bike not run with a dead battery?

I don't think the kickstand switch has been modified. It starts fine when the battery is charged up.
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