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Old 07-30-2012, 08:51 PM   #7096
2whlrider
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I made a bracket that moves the brake hose guide outside of the front cowling (to the right in your last pic) which keeps it clear of the hand guard. Works well with several thousand km's since.
Your brake hose looks clear in the pics.
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:13 PM   #7097
bhorocks
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fyi..

klx in flea market 351..


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Old 07-30-2012, 09:22 PM   #7098
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well if it looks clear enough I'll leave it be, I'm going riding on Wed, just wanted to make sure it was safe to. I went ahead and moved the wires.



I do have a lot of excess brake line sticking out above my display now but I can live with it for a while. I will eventually do something else that's more of a long term fix, but I ordered the hand guards not knowing exactly how much of a pain they'd be. Instead of waiting to do it right I'd rather be impatient and get my new parts on now
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Old 07-31-2012, 01:59 AM   #7099
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Originally Posted by CorNut View Post
well if it looks clear enough I'll leave it be, I'm going riding on Wed, just wanted to make sure it was safe to. I went ahead and moved the wires.



I do have a lot of excess brake line sticking out above my display now but I can live with it for a while. I will eventually do something else that's more of a long term fix, but I ordered the hand guards not knowing exactly how much of a pain they'd be. Instead of waiting to do it right I'd rather be impatient and get my new parts on now
Thx for the pics! I thought about doing the exact same thing, but was also afraid of the brake line rubbing against the blinker. But I think I'm going to go for it anyway and just add some electrical tape on the parts that rub against eachother.

Another question tho: I noticed when removing the electrical parts from my bars that they have little pins sticking out that go in holes on the handlebars. (To keep those assemblies in the correct position.) How did you tackle that ? Did you drill fresh holes in your new bars or removed the pins ?
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:25 AM   #7100
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Quick handlebar question: I've got the same (stock I think) bars as Cornut does in the pic above: I needed some mounting space recently and so took off the black cross bar piece. Is that cross bar and integral piece for the handlebars strength?
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:47 AM   #7101
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Originally Posted by Prophex View Post
Another question tho: I noticed when removing the electrical parts from my bars that they have little pins sticking out that go in holes on the handlebars. (To keep those assemblies in the correct position.) How did you tackle that ? Did you drill fresh holes in your new bars or removed the pins ?
I read to not drill the bars because it creates weak spots. The wires you don't have to worry about, they don't have a lot of excess play and seem to stay put pretty well. The positioning nubs on the starter button/headlight switch housings you can just file down/cut off and use some automotive seam caulk on their edges and it is suppose to hold them still. I read drilling aluminum bars is bad so I didn't do it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
Quick handlebar question: I've got the same (stock I think) bars as Cornut does in the pic above: I needed some mounting space recently and so took off the black cross bar piece. Is that cross bar and integral piece for the handlebars strength?
you're right about the bars, these are just a stock replacement. Instead of drilling the handles to be able to install the hand guards, I just got new bars. these ones. While it was nice to be able to do a straight swap without having to extend cables etc, I do kinda wish I got something a little taller. It isn't bad enough that I see myself changing them anytime soon though and it was nice to be able to do the swap with no modifications needed. Under an hour of actual work to swap bars, levers, and install hand guards and that could have been even less had I got a new throttle tube/handles

I'm no expert but my guess is it isn't that important. If you're mainly an off-road rider it would serve a purpose with the bars' durability but look at some of the choppers out there with way longer bars, with a lot more aggressive bends (which weakens the metal) and they don't have crossbars. You may kick yourself for not having it on one day you dump it pretty good and tweak em but my guess is that's about it. I am no expert though, just looking at bikes that don't use a crossbar so don't take my word for it
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:17 AM   #7102
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I read to not drill the bars because it creates weak spots. The wires you don't have to worry about, they don't have a lot of excess play and seem to stay put pretty well. The positioning nubs on the starter button/headlight switch housings you can just file down/cut off and use some automotive seam caulk on their edges and it is suppose to hold them still. I read drilling aluminum bars is bad so I didn't do it.
Won't the starter button housing move arround when you twist the trottle ?
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:48 AM   #7103
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Won't the starter button housing move arround when you twist the trottle ?
I put renthal bars on and removed the locating pegs.
To keep things in place I used small pieces of inner tube between the housing and the bars. This snugged it up enough so it stays put. 1000's of km's and no problems.
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:16 AM   #7104
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Won't the starter button housing move arround when you twist the trottle ?
I put on a wrap of cloth tape (hockey tape?), 6000 km later still doing fine. You just need something to take up a bit of space and provide some traction (friction).
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Old 08-02-2012, 05:25 PM   #7105
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[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-

I've had it since 2007. These were taken out near Durango a month ago. She's been all over Colorado and is still a sweet ride. Taken me over some beautiful mountains. Thought i'd add something since i've been lurking all these years.
Is that the Jeep road between Ouray and Telluride? I hear that it is a great ride and I was out there several times on BMW touring bikes but never on one I could venture off pavement like that. Thanks for the pictures.
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:02 PM   #7106
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Quote:
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Won't the starter button housing move arround when you twist the trottle ?
Everyone has a fix as noted.. I used electrical tape myself..

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Old 08-04-2012, 08:25 PM   #7107
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Went for a ride this afternoon with CorNut and his neighbor. Had a great time. Did about 40 miles of fire roads plus one "green" rated ohv trail that probably should have been rated blue.

I'm sitting here in a little pizza joint having dinner before riding back home.

Rob
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:25 PM   #7108
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Yeah! More photos!

Let's see where you've been lately with those 351 kits, troublesome handguards, or big tanks!



'Switzerland Trail' last Monday. Historic old RR grade and classic easy ride above Boulder...


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Old 08-05-2012, 02:53 AM   #7109
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Has anyone tried installing the 12 o'clock labs processor board in their DRC Edge tail light kit on their KLX250(S) yet ? Does it work on a stock bike ? (with Edge tail light kit)
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:58 AM   #7110
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Hand guards and levers

Ok, so now that I've read the whole thread (took me three weeks) I have a question.

What levers are you all using when you put on hand guards?

The only ones I remember seeing mentioned are the Zeta levers which are really nice but there must be other choices.

Thanks,

Jon...

PS: This has been a very informative thread
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