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Old 04-13-2013, 05:13 PM   #7756
flatwoods
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new ims tank amazing what another gallon does.

i have a seat concepts saddle any one know if sargents is wider than concepts thanks
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:57 PM   #7757
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatwoods View Post
i have a seat concepts saddle any one know if sargents is wider than concepts
If it's any wider at all, it's minimal.

My Bill Mayer seat is quite wide, but a lot of people don't like it because it restricts your ability to move your weight way back. I have short legs so it's not really a problem for me.

Rob
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:11 AM   #7758
Prophex
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Rear flat on 2011 model...

Hi all!


First amazing weather of the year here in Belgium and wanted to take my baby out of hibernation.

After only 15min and about 10km away from home, I noticed my rear was breaking out alot. Even on simple turns. It felt squirmy... I had a flat! I pulled a small nail out of my rear tire.


I've never fixed a tire on a motorcycle before. (My scooter, which I drive to work, has tubeless tires and I've plugged those on several occasions.) The rear tire on my KLX is a (stock) Dunlop D605 G and has "Tube Type" written on it. I guess this is not a tubeless tire, like on my scooter? Which would mean alot more work to get the tube fixed/replaced?

What's next?
  1. Is there a way to take the tube out, without removing the wheel? And then fixing it, like you would do on a bicycle with a small rubber patch?
  2. If I do have to remove the entire rear wheel, how would I go about doing this? (My guess: remove chain > remove rear axle > take wheel off.) But if you have to remove the chain, (by taking the master link off) will I need to put a new master link on or can I reuse the old one?
  3. How hard is it to take the tube out, once the wheel is off? What tools will I need? (... to buy)


I might consider having the tire fixed by my motorcycle shop, but since they are about 20min away, I'll have to take the rear tire off anyway... So it might be cheaper to do it all myself. Unless... Could I try and plug the tire, like you do on a tubeless one? Will that hold (long enough) to reach my shop and have them sort out everything for me? Or will that ruin everything?


Sry for all the questions.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:23 AM   #7759
Shwafish
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Flat tire repair

I had to do my first tube swap recently so I have just gone through this. First I would not patch the tube. I carry patches for emergency use but I would go ahead and replace the whole tube if you are at home because patches can fail and leave you with another flat.

The rear wheel is not hard to get off. I did not even take the chain off, there was enough slack that I was able to loosen it then slide it forward and pull the chain off the rear sprocket. Then just remove the axle and the wheel comes right off. I recommend putting a wedge of wood in the brake to keep it from compressing if you lean on the peddle. Make sure you make note of what notch the chain tensioner was on so you can put it back in the right spot.

Now you have to make a choice. You can take the easy route and take it to someone or you can do it yourself. If you do it yourself the only specialty tool you will need is tire spoons. There are lots of videos and tutorials on the internet that explain how to change a tube better than I can so I would recommend looking some up and then deciding if you want to tackle it yourself.
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:37 AM   #7760
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutz View Post
That setup should bolt to your frame just fine. However, the wheel/axle setup is where you need to be careful about having the right parts combination.
Do you know if the 300 is using the KLX wheel and KLX axle or custom axle, or a KX wheel and a KX axle? The KX wheel bearings and axle have a larger diameter than the KLX parts, so you can't mix and match those. If the 300 still has the factory trip meter, that's one dead giveaway that it's a KLX wheel; and your 250 wheel should also work (but note the odometer drive comments). If it's a KX wheel, you're going to need to bring the wheel back too, or else get a custom axle or axle adapters and spacers made to fit your KLX wheel.
One more thing to consider is the odometer drives. I can't remember what year your KLX250 is, but the '08 and newer (digital dash) odometer drive is somewhat different and does not swap with the '07 and older model wheels. I don't know if the width of the drive housings are the same, so if your 250 is an '08+ you may or may not need additional wheel spacer modifications.

Thanks for that info Lutz! I guess to rephrase my question its if someone got KX 250 forks to work excellent on a KLX300 and I bought his whole bike which I am doing should it work on my KLX250 as well?
Your extra points are super helpful though as the KLX300 I'm buying is in America and my KLX250 is in Malaysia and I do want to take all the parts off I need to make it work in one go!
Thanks again!
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:52 PM   #7761
IDRIDR
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Flat tire repair

FLAT TIRE REPAIR.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50717
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:22 AM   #7762
Prophex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shwafish View Post
I had to do my first tube swap recently so I have just gone through this. First I would not patch the tube. I carry patches for emergency use but I would go ahead and replace the whole tube if you are at home because patches can fail and leave you with another flat.

The rear wheel is not hard to get off. I did not even take the chain off, there was enough slack that I was able to loosen it then slide it forward and pull the chain off the rear sprocket. Then just remove the axle and the wheel comes right off. I recommend putting a wedge of wood in the brake to keep it from compressing if you lean on the peddle. Make sure you make note of what notch the chain tensioner was on so you can put it back in the right spot.

Now you have to make a choice. You can take the easy route and take it to someone or you can do it yourself. If you do it yourself the only specialty tool you will need is tire spoons. There are lots of videos and tutorials on the internet that explain how to change a tube better than I can so I would recommend looking some up and then deciding if you want to tackle it yourself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
THX!


I bought 3 tire irons today, but now I have to remove the wheel first. Does anyone know what size nut the KLX has on the rear axle? 27mm? Because I went to the local hardware store and they didn't sell that size socket for my torque wrench... CouldI just use a simple ring spanner instead? (I want to make sure the nut will be back on at the correct torque.)
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:54 AM   #7763
TJWally
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Question Aftermarket tall seat

Hi guys,

New to this thread. Alot of helpful information regarding mods and setup.

Just wanting to know whether any of you know of a tall seat to fit the 2009 - 2013 klx250s models. I use the bike for mainly dirt work and it would be an advantage to be able to not be stuck in one position as the stock "banana" seat promotes. Also on another note what are the highest bars able to be fitted without extending the cables?

Regards,
TJ
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:58 AM   #7764
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prophex View Post
THX!


I bought 3 tire irons today, but now I have to remove the wheel first. Does anyone know what size nut the KLX has on the rear axle? 27mm? Because I went to the local hardware store and they didn't sell that size socket for my torque wrench... CouldI just use a simple ring spanner instead? (I want to make sure the nut will be back on at the correct torque.)
27mm = 1-1/16"
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:47 AM   #7765
250senuf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJWally View Post
Hi guys,

New to this thread. Alot of helpful information regarding mods and setup.

Just wanting to know whether any of you know of a tall seat to fit the 2009 - 2013 klx250s models. I use the bike for mainly dirt work and it would be an advantage to be able to not be stuck in one position as the stock "banana" seat promotes.
Talk to SEAT CONCEPTS. A lot of us here like the stock replacement they make and I believe they can do shorter and taller as well.


Also on another note what are the highest bars able to be fitted without extending the cables?
You can't change much at all without getting tight cables although there are some production line variations so some have gotten lucky and been able to change quite a bit without a problem. YMMV!

Regards,
TJ
Answers inserted. Had to add this to make reply work.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:50 AM   #7766
250senuf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
27mm = 1-1/16"
This.

Get a 6 point impact socket that way you're ready for when (if) you change your front sprocket. 6 point are way "safer" than 12 point, less likely to round a fastener.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:01 AM   #7767
IDRIDR
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJWally View Post
Hi guys,

New to this thread. Alot of helpful information regarding mods and setup.

Just wanting to know whether any of you know of a tall seat to fit the 2009 - 2013 klx250s models. I use the bike for mainly dirt work and it would be an advantage to be able to not be stuck in one position as the stock "banana" seat promotes. Also on another note what are the highest bars able to be fitted without extending the cables?

Regards,
TJ
I have a GUTS RACING tall seat on my 06. Love it.
I understand they do NOT make one for '09+, but check with them to be sure.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:36 PM   #7768
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prophex View Post



I've never fixed a tire on a motorcycle before. (My scooter, which I drive to work, has tubeless tires and I've plugged those on several occasions.) The rear tire on my KLX is a (stock) Dunlop D605 G and has "Tube Type" written on it. I guess this is not a tubeless tire, like on my scooter? Which would mean alot more work to get the tube fixed/replaced?

What's next?
  1. Is there a way to take the tube out, without removing the wheel? And then fixing it, like you would do on a bicycle with a small rubber patch?
  2. If I do have to remove the entire rear wheel, how would I go about doing this? (My guess: remove chain > remove rear axle > take wheel off.) But if you have to remove the chain, (by taking the master link off) will I need to put a new master link on or can I reuse the old one?
  3. How hard is it to take the tube out, once the wheel is off? What tools will I need? (... to buy)

I might consider having the tire fixed by my motorcycle shop, but since they are about 20min away, I'll have to take the rear tire off anyway... So it might be cheaper to do it all myself. Unless... Could I try and plug the tire, like you do on a tubeless one? Will that hold (long enough) to reach my shop and have them sort out everything for me? Or will that ruin everything?


Sry for all the questions.
The link IDRider posted a few posts above is an excellent tire changing tutorial.

Of course its good to know how to change a tire; but I understand not wanting to take the time. :) No way you can plug a flat the way it is, but it is possible with this:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/203/28640/ITEM/Neutech-The-TUbliss-Core.aspx
to make your tires kind of tubeless which means you can plug flats or even just ride on one for several miles.

My suggestion would be when you get your tires changed next, do it at a time when you have some free time, take it into the shop and see if the mechanic will let you watch him do it... if he's really cool he might let you try it step by step which is the only way he'll remember all the questions a newbie has and the only way you'll know what the right questions to ask are.
Malaysia is no issue, but even in America where they all have signs saying customers can't go in the shop I've always had them let me watch, bug them and ask questions!
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:37 PM   #7769
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 250senuf View Post
This.

Get a 6 point impact socket that way you're ready for when (if) you change your front sprocket. 6 point are way "safer" than 12 point, less likely to round a fastener.
I love little tid bits like that! Didn't notice they were the same size and certainly wouldn't want to cart around both a 12 and a 6 point!
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:50 PM   #7770
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
I love little tid bits like that! Didn't notice they were the same size and certainly wouldn't want to cart around both a 12 and a 6 point!
Common axle nut sizes and their "close enough" equivalents:

19mm = 3/4"
22mm = 7/8"
24mm = 1"
27mm = 1-1/16"
32mm = 1-1/4"
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