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Old 06-29-2013, 09:48 AM   #8056
Lutz
Killer Rabbit
 
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: North Shore of Lake Superior
Oddometer: 1,233
Quote:
Originally Posted by doxbike View Post
does anyone know for sure which years of the 300 klx head pipe and muffler will fit a 2009 klx250s?
All of them. 1997-2007.
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:38 PM   #8057
BroncoDave
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Tobyhanna, PA
Oddometer: 3,202
Help What is the trq for the front sprocket nut 2006 klx250s also what is the stock sprocket 14 ? I have a 13 second owner i thought it was stock
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:43 PM   #8058
turbodieseli4i6
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: SW Missouri USA
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:39 AM   #8059
Dan888
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Rkfd IL
Oddometer: 409
Quote:
Originally Posted by TNC View Post
...and ram air.

Just so no one mistakes humor for reality, dan888 and IDRIDR are great forum contributors both here and on the Kawasaki Forums. In fact, sometimes we have so much fun over there that we forget just how serious motorcles really are.
WHOA!!!
I am not the same Dan888 as over on KF. That guy over there is just awesome. Very knowledgeable and extremely funny. TNC are you the same TNC over on KF???? I never made teh connection, you seem so level headed, and pleasant here on ADV.......

Are you the same TNC that won the Concho Enduro down in Texas?

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Old 06-30-2013, 05:49 AM   #8060
Dan888
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Location: Rkfd IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoDave View Post
Help What is the trq for the front sprocket nut 2006 klx250s also what is the stock sprocket 14 ? I have a 13 second owner i thought it was stock
92 ft lbs front sprocket nut. I put some anti-seize on mine. Yours has obviously been off before but these things are notorious for being super hard to remove, the first time off. They really put them on tight, or lock them with something, at the factory.
14 is stock, but 13 works great, unless all you do is ride on the road.
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:43 AM   #8061
BroncoDave
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Tobyhanna, PA
Oddometer: 3,202
Help!!!! I had the rear tire in the air to lube chain, found it a little hard to rotate, felt like a dragging brake or wheel bearing. Removed chain,turns out its the drive sprocket that has the resistance. This does not seem normal to me. With the chain off, I can not rotate front sprocket by hand. With a wrench I can get it to rotate then continue by hand. There seems to be a lot of drag internally. It does not have tight spots or clunking when I rotate it, no play in the shaft, does this sound normal or do I have an internal issue? Bike has about 3000 miles on it. Please help before I freak...
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:41 PM   #8062
grahamfitter
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Lowell, Massachusetts, USA
Oddometer: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoDave View Post
Help!!!! I had the rear tire in the air to lube chain, found it a little hard to rotate, felt like a dragging brake or wheel bearing. Removed chain,turns out its the drive sprocket that has the resistance. This does not seem normal to me. With the chain off, I can not rotate front sprocket by hand. With a wrench I can get it to rotate then continue by hand. There seems to be a lot of drag internally. It does not have tight spots or clunking when I rotate it, no play in the shaft, does this sound normal or do I have an internal issue? Bike has about 3000 miles on it. Please help before I freak...
You sure its in neutral?
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:48 PM   #8063
BroncoDave
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Location: Tobyhanna, PA
Oddometer: 3,202
Yes and the killswitch is on DOH bike was hot now it's cold I can turn it with my hand but still not easy
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:32 AM   #8064
Gillus
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Alamogordo, NM
Oddometer: 670
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoDave View Post
Help!!!! I had the rear tire in the air to lube chain, found it a little hard to rotate, felt like a dragging brake or wheel bearing. Removed chain,turns out its the drive sprocket that has the resistance. This does not seem normal to me. With the chain off, I can not rotate front sprocket by hand. With a wrench I can get it to rotate then continue by hand. There seems to be a lot of drag internally. It does not have tight spots or clunking when I rotate it, no play in the shaft, does this sound normal or do I have an internal issue? Bike has about 3000 miles on it. Please help before I freak...

before or after you lubed the chain. did you clean it all before you lubed it?? Maybe it is all super sticky
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:37 AM   #8065
BroncoDave
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Both the chain is not adding much. all my other bike spin freely It's all at the output shaft
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:49 PM   #8066
FloorPoor
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Spudville, Idaho
Oddometer: 710
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoDave View Post
Both the chain is not adding much. all my other bike spin freely It's all at the output shaft

Quite possibly you have a toasted counter shaft bearing, or worse

What kind of chain tension have you been running? Dirtbikes, especially non cush hub ones, like the chain to be on the looser end of the spec. Possibly you ran the chain tight too long and toasted the bearing? An over tight chain will put A LOT of pressure on the countershaft bearing when the suspension compresses rapidly from a big hit. Or perhaps the bearing is just faulty. I would start with the counter shaft bearing, hopefully it's not a bearing deeper in the gear box.
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FloorPoor screwed with this post 07-02-2013 at 06:54 PM
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:33 AM   #8067
brieninsac
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 205
I'm going to be installing a new IMS tank this weekend. It comes with a 2-way vented gas cap. I'd like to get the Acerbis locking cap which only vents in. Is there any safety concerns using a 1-way cap like this? I just don't want to have excessive pressure in the tank and have it fail on me.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:35 PM   #8068
sealsam
Sam...I am.
 
Joined: May 2010
Location: seal beach, ca.
Oddometer: 1,525
Spent a couple days in the St. Geo, UT & Zion NP area last week for my birthday. Did about 400 mi in the 2 days. One of those days was with RedRockRider, StG & Simbaboy. RRR found us some fairly remote, beautiful high country stuff.

The Seat Concepts continues to offer great comfort. Great investment!

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Old 07-03-2013, 09:55 PM   #8069
rickypanecatyl
SE Asia adventure tours
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Oddometer: 1,048
Brick rider that sounds like it could be a great bike - if it was done, put together well!

Pluses
- about 40 pounds lighter than the new ones.
- much better suspension for off road. (might feel washy on curvy pavement... It will have more adjustability though.)
- one of the best learner/forgiving engines for riding off road. The ratio of torque to hp/gentle hp curve.

If it s done right you could have a bike that performed similarly to a WR250F or CRF250X off road with 4 times the engine life doing 1/4 the maintenance.

Because it lasts so long I'd advise having a custom suspension guy totally dial it in for you and your riding. Those mods will only cost you 1/4 as much per mile. :-)

In Malaysia you could get a custom chromaly sub frame that is a bit heavier but can even handle a passenger.

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Old 07-04-2013, 07:14 AM   #8070
NikLyk
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Denmark
Oddometer: 32
You guys with the Big Bore kits, I am interested in knowing your highway cruising speeds.

My near-stock EFI 250 goes 70 mph @ 7100 rpm pretty comfortably.
Stock gearing, no big bore, standard speedo.

What I am interested in knowing is if the Big Bore kit makes it slightly more highway capable. I would love to be able to go 80-85 comfortably.

At what speeds and rpm do you usually cruise on the highway?
(Please list gearing, cc´s, stock/modded speedo and such) Do the big bore kits help in this department or is it mostly low and mid-range grunt?
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