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Old 07-13-2013, 08:43 AM   #8101
DurtDevil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNC View Post
Could you share all your jetting numbers?...main jet, needle #, needle jet #, needle clip position, pilot jet, pilot air jet, pump opening/closing position...everything.
Shoot - if course I don't know it all. I remember my friend/mechanic saying that he didn't mess with the carb settings (he did play with it a little but said it seemed to work best the way the Bill Blue had sent it out).

I will make some calls and see what I can find.

It's a 2007 w/351, 36 pumper, KDX200 snorkel, K&N filter, and Two Bros exhaust. I' guessing its probably not possible to ask for standard sea level settings with that set up?

I'll post again once I have all the jetting info - thanks TNC.
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:49 AM   #8102
TNC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DurtDevil View Post
Shoot - if course I don't know it all. I remember my friend/mechanic saying that he didn't mess with the carb settings (he did play with it a little but said it seemed to work best the way the Bill Blue had sent it out).

I will make some calls and see what I can find.

It's a 2007 w/351, 36 pumper, KDX200 snorkel, K&N filter, and Two Bros exhaust. I' guessing its probably not possible to ask for standard sea level settings with that set up?

I'll post again once I have all the jetting info - thanks TNC.
If it's Bill Blue's modded 33mm pumper bored to 34mm, it's different from my 36mm Mikuni pumper. I was hoping to get you closer to proper jetting for the KLX, but I'm not really as familiar with BB's carb settings. There are quite a few here that have that carb, however, and perhaps they could steer you closer.
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:02 AM   #8103
Navin
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Pull the main and try one step leaner, failing that and if it gets worse, one richer. Sounds fat to me on the main but better to test and tune. The pump should be finished at that point when you roll the throttle slowly to get past the blubber.

Another thing to try, roll it to point and pull the choke on. I'd bet it gets worse.
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:07 AM   #8104
tjrockit
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What do you guys use for case savers to keep the gear shifter from punchering the case?
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:28 AM   #8105
TNC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navin View Post
Pull the main and try one step leaner, failing that and if it gets worse, one richer. Sounds fat to me on the main but better to test and tune. The pump should be finished at that point when you roll the throttle slowly to get past the blubber.

Another thing to try, roll it to point and pull the choke on. I'd bet it gets worse.
I was wondering about that. Being that he could slowly accelerate up to WOT without much issue but have noticeable stumbling when whacking the throttle open, it sounds like his pump may not be working or at least not keeping up...pump timing or even not pumping at all. I agree that the pump should be through at 3/4 throttle or so.
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:42 AM   #8106
FIDOLLAZ
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Originally Posted by 1994klr250 View Post
Do you have any pictures of the new head pipe and muffler? I have big gun EVO x exhaust on my 94 klr 250 and its loud, now I'm looking for something a bit quieter for my 06 klx250. Any video clips of it running?
its really quiet & huge performance gain
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:07 PM   #8107
doxbike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
No, the ACR is on the exhaust cam, so if you change it, you will have to change the ACR.

As I understand it, you have to do both to have any improvement.

Rob
See post 428 on that other forum
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:09 PM   #8108
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Originally Posted by tjrockit View Post
What do you guys use for case savers to keep the gear shifter from punchering the case?
Wondering that myself. think I'm gonna bend the shifter out just a tad and jb weld a piece of 1/4" aluminum on there, unless anybody has a reason not to, or has a better idea
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:13 PM   #8109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjrockit View Post
What do you guys use for case savers to keep the gear shifter from punchering the case?
Quote:
Originally Posted by doxbike View Post
Wondering that myself. think I'm gonna bend the shifter out just a tad and jb weld a piece of 1/4" aluminum on there, unless anybody has a reason not to, or has a better idea
I extended my shifter 3/4" and while I had the welder out, I welded a flat piece of steel to the back. I had a lowside crash and bent the shifter and it hit the case but didn't damage it, so it worked as planned.

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Old 07-13-2013, 04:59 PM   #8110
Dan888
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Originally Posted by tjrockit View Post
What do you guys use for case savers to keep the gear shifter from punchering the case?
You start with a box of Cheezits. Take the Cheezit box and cut away anything that doesn't look like a case saver.

















It's held on with some 3M high heat two sided tape . I will have to pull it off when I do a valve check.
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Old 07-13-2013, 06:00 PM   #8111
1994klr250
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You start with a box of Cheezits. Take the Cheezit box and cut away anything that doesn't look like a case saver.

















It's held on with some 3M high heat two sided tape . I will have to pull it off when I do a valve check.
Wow, that looks great! What thickness aluminum did you use?
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:45 PM   #8112
tjrockit
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Having you considered making a few and selling them?
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:46 AM   #8113
zippets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan888 View Post
You start with a box of Cheezits. Take the Cheezit box and cut away anything that doesn't look like a case saver.



It's held on with some 3M high heat two sided tape . I will have to pull it off when I do a valve check.
LOL wow why don't you cut out a hole in the middle os you don't have to remove for a valve check ??
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:36 AM   #8114
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I wouldn't put a hole in it either.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:18 PM   #8115
FIDOLLAZ
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Has anyone put the sm front rotor on the s with the s wheel?

I have not looked at the sm setup yet...I can make a caliper relocation bracket on my mill if needed.

also if anyone has what im looking for PM me if its for sale
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