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Old 01-31-2011, 10:09 AM   #31
TaxMan
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Oddometer: 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
Did you go over your wiring to make sure there are no shorts from rub spots where the shielding is missing... Also check the battery when it is unhooked and left to sit for a day or 2 to see if it still loses juice...
yes, and yes. Of course, there is always a chance i missed spotting some bit of worn off wire insulation. I'm on the lookout.

In general, I'm getting a closed circuit from the disconnected positive battery lead to ground. after disconnecting and testing nearly all the plugs and fuse circuits, the continuity appears to be coming through the main fuse from the R/R at 3500 ohm (disconnected from the generator). there is also current going to the capacitor while it charges, which is fine (but it took me awhile to figure out what was going on there!).

The battery is brand new because i thought the old one had a bad cell (which it may have). The new battery worked great at first, but drained to 10v over the week i worked on dislodging a stuck oil drain plug. It has stayed consistent at 10v for the past week, disconnected while i test everything else. it doesn't seem to be leaking volts on its own, but i need to purchase a charger to get it charged to full and see if drains on its own from full. i'll try and pick one up tonight.

how about this, can someone pull their positive lead off their battery and tell me what the resistance is on their entire circuit? it seem like it should be very high with just a bit of juice going to the consol to power the clock,odo memory, etc. it would be nice to have some baseline to compare to. of course, testing the R/R would be even better, (come on, the plug is right there next to the battery, you know you want to!)..

thanks
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Old 01-31-2011, 11:11 AM   #32
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaxMan View Post
this was the closest thread i could find in the index. broader searches didn't have the data either. most things had to do with changing out the stator and regulator and not diagnosing a slow leak. hoping someone might already have their seat off and can quick check for me.
Cool.

For electrical questions your best active member is "Luke", and searching for his posts on regulator and ohms returns:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...or+ohms&page=2

If I am reading this correctly (not a given... ) it should be less than 1 ohm.

Mas:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...regulator+ohms

And one of his own threads that probably has some useful info:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...regulator+ohms

If you want to look for more "Creeper" has some good electrical info, but he is no longer active here.
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Old 01-31-2011, 11:30 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
Cool.

For electrical questions your best active member is "Luke", and searching for his posts on regulator and ohms returns:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...or+ohms&page=2

If I am reading this correctly (not a given... ) it should be less than 1 ohm.

Mas:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...regulator+ohms

And one of his own threads that probably has some useful info:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...regulator+ohms

If you want to look for more "Creeper" has some good electrical info, but he is no longer active here.
Great, I'll check these out and maybe bug Luke directly.

Thanks Meat!
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:31 AM   #34
mcguyver
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Did you ever get a solution to this/ Minee is doing the same thing.
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:02 PM   #35
gmtcm
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Location: ALBUQUERQUE, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happe View Post
Hi mate,

sounds like your rectifier has a problem. You will find the little bugger next to the battery. The strange thing with the cooling fins on it.
Measure if the diodes in there are still working.
Take a multimeter set it to ohms and measure between yellow and red in both directions.
One direction should give you no read out. Do this with all three yellow cables.
If one or more give you a readout in both directions you will have to get a new rectifier.

Also just FYI.
If your bike is at 3500revs you should have a charging voltage of 13.6 to 14.5 V. Even at idle the voltage should not go below 13V. Otherwise your connectors are corroded or something is broken.

Very common problem on KTM's is the main ground wire from the battery to the frame. Check if the contact is clean and tight.
If you need mor information give me a PM.

cheers

Stefan
Might you also have the resistance readings for the wires that go from the regulator to the stator coil?

Thanks - gmtcm
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:17 AM   #36
Happe
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Location: Wales UK or Switzerland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmtcm View Post
Might you also have the resistance readings for the wires that go from the regulator to the stator coil?

Thanks - gmtcm
Hi there,
You will have to look for the workshop manual for the lc4
A quick search on google should find you one to download

cu
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:56 AM   #37
bmwktmbill
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:22 PM   #38
guymanbro
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Location: Suburb of Podunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happe View Post
There is no extra charging coil in this generator
you should have a yellow, a red/black and a black/red cable
If you now measure
red/black to black/red
red/black to yellow
black/red to yellow
you should read 0.45-0.56 ohms

If you are fiddling around down there, measure the pulser coil too.
Should be a green and a white cable. Should read 80-120ohms.
Anybody still watching this thread? I have an issue with my '99 Lc4 640's charging system. The regulator checks out ok. The pulser coil also measures within the specs mentioned above. The stator check gives me a consistent reading of 0.9 on all of the wires listed above, in both directions. Is there another check to perform before pronouncing the stator dead?

thanks,
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:29 PM   #39
gmtcm
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Ads it turned out, on of the 6mm bolts holding the rotor together came out and was chewing up the stator coil. KTM must have run out of lock tite that day. I replaced the stator coil and everything is working fine now.
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