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Old 01-29-2006, 08:02 PM   #31
Lobby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle
Perhaps you should reread ZAMM by Pirsig. It's not about the item itself. It's about having an inate understanding of the substance of these things.

-Jeff-
Hey, Sickle!

Super thread! Thanks for posting.

A few questions:

1. Where did you buy the coax connectors?

2. I assume you don't connect the 30 ga wire to the coax connectors, but instead to a larger, stronger wire which can handle the stress of human contact which then connects to the coax. Correct?

3. What ideas do you have re connecting your vest to, say, Gerbing's heated gloves? I suppose you'd run a separate (connected in parallel) wire from the coax to each sleeve where you would install another coax for the gloves?

Thanks!!!
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Old 01-30-2006, 03:45 AM   #32
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Why don't you just use SAE connectors, Lobby? They're available anywhere, and are even the standard on a lot of commercially
built heated equipment.

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Old 01-30-2006, 05:56 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZR_Ron
Why don't you just use SAE connectors, Lobby? They're available anywhere, and are even the standard on a lot of commercially
built heated equipment.

Two reasons:

1. I've got some gerbing's equipment that uses coax connectors and would like to make everything work together.

2. SAE connectors, once together, require some force to pull apart. Being a bit of an airhead (me, not the bike), I sometimes forget to disconnect the clothings from the bike before walking away. With coax, everything just slips apart cleanly. But with SAE, I'd break wires and stuff.
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:08 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobby
Two reasons:

1. I've got some gerbing's equipment that uses coax connectors and would like to make everything work together.

2. SAE connectors, once together, require some force to pull apart. Being a bit of an airhead (me, not the bike), I sometimes forget to disconnect the clothings from the bike before walking away. With coax, everything just slips apart cleanly. But with SAE, I'd break wires and stuff.
Ditto. I use the SAE connectors at both ends. They do require a lot of force to take apart. My first SAE connector on the bike is followed by a co-axial connector for my daily disconnects. The last connector at the jacket is also an SAE connector.

I often carry a small electric pump for the bike. It's wired to an SAE connector. Until I routed a non-accessory circuit for the jacket, my pump power came off the grip heater circuit, which was wired off the headlight power. This required me to run the headlight while operating the pump. With the engine off, this would quickly drain the battery. I'm glad I now have the extra circuit. The 2-wire SAE connector will stay tucked under the front of the seat until I need it.

-Jeff-
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:11 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobby
Hey, Sickle!

1. Where did you buy the coax connectors?

2. I assume you don't connect the 30 ga wire to the coax connectors, but instead to a larger, stronger wire which can handle the stress of human contact which then connects to the coax. Correct?

3. What ideas do you have re connecting your vest to, say, Gerbing's heated gloves? I suppose you'd run a separate (connected in parallel) wire from the coax to each sleeve where you would install another coax for the gloves?

Thanks!!!
Connectors can be found at any Radio Shack, or equivalent store.

The 2-wire SAE connectors are securely anchored into the jacket pocket. The 30 gage wires are soldered and shrink wrapped to the 16 gage wire. I'd have to rip a big hole in the jacket to put any strain on the 30 gage wires.

I run heated grip covers, rather than heated gloves.

-Jeff-
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:12 AM   #36
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Im running exactly the same as you, but with out the coax connectors.
I keep the SAE connectors lubed up though, for my own klutziness.

All my accessories are wired for them. I even have an SAE to cigarette lighter adaptor for my tail bag.
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:33 AM   #37
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OK, I've got my 30 ga wire threaded through the mesh lining of a thin cross-country ski jacket I had, and I'm trying to figure out a simple on/off switch. I was thinking of a "feed through" or "cord through" switch so that I can turn the jacket on and off without having to unhook it, but the only ones I can find are rated for 125V. If I get a switch rated for 10 amps at 125V, will it be able to handle the 3 amps of current I'm drawing at 12.5V?
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:38 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerhonky
OK, I've got my 30 ga wire threaded through the mesh lining of a thin cross-country ski jacket I had, and I'm trying to figure out a simple on/off switch. I was thinking of a "feed through" or "cord through" switch so that I can turn the jacket on and off without having to unhook it, but the only ones I can find are rated for 125V. If I get a switch rated for 10 amps at 125V, will it be able to handle the 3 amps of current I'm drawing at 12.5V?
absolutely. I used an inline lamp switch for mine, works great (and matches the one that came on my Eclipse heated vest many years ago)
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Old 10-18-2006, 11:08 AM   #39
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Just thought I'd post a couple of things in here, in case they're useful to any one.

Here's the schematic for the heated vest controllers I built for me and some of my friends: (Paul Mondor will be using two when he crosses Canada
this winter)
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ZZR_Ron screwed with this post 10-19-2006 at 09:04 AM
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Old 10-18-2006, 11:11 AM   #40
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Here's the completed unit. I use the thos things for hiding keys as cases,
they have a nice hefty magnet to stick the tank. If your using a tankbag, just throw a fender washer in the window to stick it to.
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Old 10-18-2006, 11:15 AM   #41
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And here's a completed circuit board.

I've built about 40 of these for friends over the last few years.
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Old 10-18-2006, 12:13 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle
OK, here's a brief description of my trials & tribulations in building an electric jacket that wouldn't (immediately) immolate me.
http://www.crystalinks.com/shc.html

Step 1: Pick up a cheap pile jacket & a cheap nylon jacket with mesh liner. Pile jacket: $10 at Target. Cheap 2nd hand golf jacket: $8.

Here are a couple pics of the nylon jacket. Finding something with a thin shell & a mesh liner is critical. The shell will become the part laying against the rider, and the mesh will hold the woven wire:



Mesh Liner:


Step 2: Obtain some stranded 30ga wire with teflon insulation. Newark doesn't carry it any more, but I found some at www.mouser.com
For white wire, the p/n is 566-83000-100-09

Cost for wire: ~$24 with shipping. I used less than half of the 100' spool.

Step 3: Decide how much heat you want and cut the appropriate length of wire. Wire resistances can be found at http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Power = Voltage^2/R. Important: remember that your operating voltage isn't 12V, but ~13.5V for a system that is charging. This is very important since the power is proportional to the voltage.

I selected a length of ~40feet to give me a power around 40-45W.

Step 4: Turn the windbreaker inside out & weave the wire thru the mesh using a large needle. I wove some thru the collar area, the upper arms, back and front of the jacket. I ran a higher weave density in the collar and front of the jacket than I did in the back. Here are a couple shots of the wire in the mesh liner:



Step 5: Place the liner into the pile jacket & stitch into place. Put in suitable power connectors (& a 5A fuse). I sewed them together along the lapels, and the ends of the sleeves. I left the bottom unstitched until I was done fiddling with my wire distribution. I ended up reweaving a couple of sections due to hot spots. When I was finished I basted the bottom together in 5 spots.

Here are some of the finished pic's:


I experimented with the power connector & switch. I wanted a lighted rocker, so I kludged one into the wiring. For the power connector I chose a co-axial type for an easy disconnect, should I forget to unhook myself after dismounting.



That's about it. After a couple rearrangements of the wiring, I'm very happy with the warmth. The heated collar is great. Heating the upper arms is very nice. There's still plenty of power left over for the torso.

Here's hoping that I don't become a human transformer the first time I ride under some high-tension power lines.

-Jeff-
Could you please turn the pictures back on?
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Old 10-18-2006, 12:14 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZR_Ron
Just thought I'd post a couple of things in here, in case they're useful to any one.

Here's the schematic for the heated vest controllers I built for me and some of my friends: (Paul Mondor will be using two when he crosses Canada
this winter)
So, after about an hour of Googling up all those part numbers and trying to figure out what all those symbols mean, it looks like you're basically building one of these:

http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MX033

The store-bought PWM costs $18 plus shipping, and the parts to make the thingy you made cost about $16. I think I might just buy the pre-made one, although it has been interesting to read about capacitors and such.
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Old 10-18-2006, 12:20 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerhonky
So, after about an hour of Googling up all those part numbers and trying to figure out what all those symbols mean, it looks like you're basically building one of these:

http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MX033

The store-bought PWM costs $18 plus shipping, and the parts to make the thingy you made cost about $16. I think I might just buy the pre-made one, although it has been interesting to read about capacitors and such.

I am merely posting for anyone who's interested. If your not, don't bitch about it.
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Old 10-18-2006, 12:49 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by ZZR_Ron
I am merely posting for anyone who's interested. If your not, don't bitch about it.
Sorry, man. I wasn't complaining. The whole reason I looked all that stuff up was because I was thinking of building the controller you posted. I think it's neat to make stuff instead of buy it, but after checking it out that project just seemed like it was a little over my head, and for only a couple bucks more I figured I'd be sure I didn't have something cross-wired or such. Also, I thought that the pricing I found might be of interest to others who wanted to know about how much it would cost to make the controller instead of buy it. Lastly, I was hoping that you might confirm or refute my conclusion that what you built was essentially the same as the PWM, because if for some reason it's different there might be a reason for me to make one instead of buy one. Since you didn't tell me any differently, I'll assume they're basically the same.

Again, my apologies for apparently touching a nerve.

Sheesh!
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