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Old 05-21-2013, 10:01 AM   #5116
Sock Monkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danketchpel View Post
Tonight I tried Leafman's "quicky cap" on the Evap system just to see if it made a difference. Results,....... yup very noticeable improvement in the idle and a bit smoother throttling in the lower ranges. But I'd say the improvement in idle quality was the most noticeable and what I was after. Totally worth the 10 minutes it took me.
Dangit Dan, stop it will ya. You're going to make me go out there and do the same to mine.....again.

I would like smoother idling when cold, but I (and the rest of the family) really dislike the fuel smell in the garage on warm days with no evap canister in place. So.....stop tempting me!

-SM
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:49 AM   #5117
danketchpel
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Wicked

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sock Monkey View Post
Dangit Dan, stop it will ya. You're going to make me go out there and do the same to mine.....again.

I would like smoother idling when cold, but I (and the rest of the family) really dislike the fuel smell in the garage on warm days with no evap canister in place. So.....stop tempting me!

-SM
Sorry 'bout that SM. I've done it to all my bikes and never really noticed any significant fuel smell in the garage. Maybe my garage ventilates better?

I noticed the improved idle when it was hot, much better, about half the shaking from before doing it. I've always wondered why it shook so bad at idle, just didn't seem right. Every once in a while it really smooths out at idle and I'm not sure exactly why, just the right rpm, mixture, elevation (changes effective compression ratio)? But I get a glimpse into what can be. I noticed it idles better around 4,500-5,000 ft elevation than sea level.

One thing about the quicky evap cap method, you can try it out and then put it back to stock in minutes if you don't like the results.

More tinkering....

Tonight I'll be working on replacing the cig socket with the Powerlet socket in the dash. Does anybody know if there's a slick and easy way to make that circuit always hot instead of switched with the key? Also, what's the deal with the GPS wire? I want a always hot feed to the tank bag & GPS.

I've got the Powerlet socket I will mount on the left side for the heated gear but I have to fab a bracket for the socket. I plan to do this on Friday. The bracket will mount off the upper rear motor mount, same place the left crash bar mounts.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:03 PM   #5118
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I mounted a powerlet socket in the right plastic panel below the seat. It looks factory there.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #5119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevie88 View Post
I mounted a powerlet socket in the right plastic panel below the seat. It looks factory there.
If there are no pix, then it didn't happen
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:05 PM   #5120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danketchpel View Post
Tonight I'll be working on replacing the cig socket with the Powerlet socket in the dash. Does anybody know if there's a slick and easy way to make that circuit always hot instead of switched with the key? Also, what's the deal with the GPS wire? I want a always hot feed to the tank bag & GPS.
Schematic from http://guzzitek.org/
Sockets will be somewhat easy, see below:


You might be able to move the switched tap at the fuse block to the unswtiched side (or wire it to the battery). 34 and 66 are the sockets, fuse (7) is what is protecting just the sockets. Move the wire on the source side to a different source and you should be good to go.
.
The GPS will be harder:


You are better off leaving the GPS alone and wiring off of the dash socket once you do the mod above.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:52 PM   #5121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. B View Post
If there are no pix, then it didn't happen
Looks like the real deal, eh?



At no extra cost, this bonus photo.

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Old 05-21-2013, 02:19 PM   #5122
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With all the burnt orange Stelvios being posted, shouldn't this thread be merged with "Orange Crush?"
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:33 PM   #5123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirb View Post
Sockets will be somewhat easy;

You might be able to move the switched tap at the fuse block to the unswtiched side (or wire it to the battery). 34 and 66 are the sockets, fuse (7) is what is protecting just the sockets. Move the wire on the source side to a different source and you should be good to go.
I agree, I think the best would be tapping the upstream side of the fuse to the battery. I need to study the fuse block.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kirb View Post
The GPS will be harder:

You are better off leaving the GPS alone and wiring off of the dash socket once you do the mod above.
I completely agree, I will just leave that GPS circuit alone. I wasn't planning to use it but figured I'd ask.

The outlet for the heated gear will be straight off the battery. They were kind enough to leave a Battery Tender connection on the bike. I'll use that and just snip off the SAE connector and wire it to the Powerlet socket. It already has a fuse inline with nice beefy wire and lugs. I already have a SAE to Powerlet adapter made for battery charging in the garage.

I may just leave the cig style socket under the seat alone for now. There just might be an advantage to having one of those sockets on the bike.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:53 PM   #5124
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Originally Posted by stevie88 View Post
Looks like the real deal, eh?

It does look nice there. I don't know why but for some reason I can't wrap my head around having the socket on the right side. I think it's because I always mount/dismount on the left and if you forget to disconnect it works out better. The rest is simply being a creature of habit. It was on the left side on my old BMW from the factory and well......... some habits are hard to change. Don't talk to me about left side kickstart motorcycles....... that's just abby normal.

Hey, what pipe is that hiding in the background? I haven't read much of a discussion about alternative pipes for these bikes. I'm seriously interested in something slimmer, lighter, and quiet but with a good tone. I don't even care if the power is the same. A key motivation for me is to be able to move the luggage in closer and to hear just a little bit of that Italian V-twin music. But I DO NOT want a loud pipe. I love the sound of the stock pipe around 2000-2500 rpm when you just take off, very nice.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:21 PM   #5125
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It's a carbon fiber Mistral. They come with a removable db killer but I prefer it open.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:38 PM   #5126
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Originally Posted by stevie88 View Post


It's a carbon fiber Mistral. They come with a removable db killer but I prefer it open.

Stevie... very nice. I've been thinking about getting one myself. How do you like it? What's it sound like with the db killer in compared to stock? Did you have to do any remapping or any adjustments due to the new pipe?
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:51 PM   #5127
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Originally Posted by Demar39 View Post
Stevie... very nice. I've been thinking about getting one myself. How do you like it? What's it sound like with the db killer in compared to stock? Did you have to do any remapping or any adjustments due to the new pipe?
Ya, what he said.

I've been looking for sound clips on Youtube but it's hard to find ones with the dbkiller installed, most are without it. I'd definitely want to run the dbkiller.

I'm leaning towards a Stainless Steel can myself. I think Mistral offers that style also. I kinda like the Staintune but can't find a sound clip with the dbkiller in.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:10 PM   #5128
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With the db killer in place the sound is not much louder than stock, a bit more growl for sure. My Stelvio is a 13 with the dual 02 sensors and it seems pretty happy with the open pipe. I also have a 2012 Griso with a similar can. It really doesn't seem to fuel quite as well as it did when stock, though it does seem to do better without the db killer than with, go figure. I imagine at some point I'll let Todd reflash the Griso and add the PC-5 and Autotune.



I chose the carbon fiber over the all metal cans for several reasons. I prefer the look of the cf on both these bikes and it runs much cooler. That's no biggie on the Griso but with the panniers on the Stelvio I don't worry about cooking the contents .
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:42 AM   #5129
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OK, so last night I finished the installation of heated grips, bar risers, gps power cable and deplumbing of the canister. I ended up leaving it in place in case I wanted to go back, and took off the hoses at the tip over valve and 'T' under the tank. Capped those to keep critters out. I then used the hose that was on the tipover valve to connect between the 2 throttle body vacuum ports since that was easiest (and about the perfect length). Added a length of fuel tubing for a tank vent and ran it down with all the others near the shock. The only thing I am not 100% satisfied with is slight throttle binding at full right turn against the stop. I rerouted the cables and hydraulic lines behind the fork bracket, and zip tied them to the fork tubes to keep clearance from the tank. I may look at that one more time before buttoning up all the plastics this morning.
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:52 AM   #5130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demar39 View Post
Stevie... very nice. I've been thinking about getting one myself. How do you like it? What's it sound like with the db killer in compared to stock? Did you have to do any remapping or any adjustments due to the new pipe?
I have a Mistral carbon on my 4V griso. It came without a DBkiller, I added one due to fueling. I like the sound without the DB killer on the Griso, but the decel pop was annoying. I am looking at a remap option of the ECU alone.

The sound with the DB killer isn't annoying to anyone. It only ever lets you know it's there when you get on it. Regular 'around town' is quiet and presents a nice tone.

Mistral pipes are built very well. I would buy one for the NTX without question. Running with/without DB is a quick change.
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