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Old 06-22-2013, 05:48 AM   #5596
danketchpel
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Location: Camarillo, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam R View Post
I'd recomend not using any tools, unless you have the specific fuel line plier (which are awkward anyway). Push the line elbow into the tank connector. Push the grey collar in (ie towards the body of the connector again) and then ease out the line elbow. Watch your eyes for any fuel spray. Doddle.
Yes, this worked well. Pushing both the retaining collar (black on my bike) and elbow connector in then ease the elbow out slowly. It will come right out easily. I usually get a few dribbles of fuel then wipe it up.

The tank does come off quite easily over all.

I'd recommend using some blue loctite on the upper engine mount bolts that go into the frame.

The stock fuel line clamps open easily if you insert a small screwdriver or pick into the small square opening in the clamp then pry out, this will release the clamp easily. Close it back on with regular pliers. They are kinda funky but work quite well once you figure them out.

The evap line running from the blue (filter/valve?) to the tank is just the right length to connect both vacuum ports together, like somebody intended it.

The fuel in the tank will be a bit more exposed to atmosphere but I don't think moisture absorption will have much of an effect unless the bike sits for very long periods in very humid conditions.

If you run the vent lines down below the shock they are quite long which may inhibit some evaporation/absorption.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:21 AM   #5597
ramli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demar39 View Post
Is it possible to check the engine bolts on the 2012 NTX without removing the tank?

Thanks,
Rick
actually it is, sort of.

you can't check their tension with an allen key, but prying fingers behind the mount above the cylinder head one can check them still. Also JUST visible using torchlight, if washer is rotating, its obviously loose .
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:02 PM   #5598
Adam R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demar39
Thanks Adam. That sounds a lot like the connection on my Bonneville.
*snip*
Rick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demar39
Yes, this worked well. Pushing both the retaining collar (black on my bike) and elbow connector in then ease the elbow out slowly. It will come right out easily. I usually get a few dribbles of fuel then wipe it up.
Glad it worked for you guys
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Old 06-22-2013, 01:09 PM   #5599
Demar39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danketchpel View Post
I'd recommend using some blue loctite on the upper engine mount bolts that go into the frame.
Anybody know offhand the torque spec on these bolts?

Thanks,
Rick
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:15 PM   #5600
dirtymartini
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demar39 View Post
Anybody know offhand the torque spec on these bolts?

Thanks,
Rick
1.5 grunts
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:21 PM   #5601
llamapacker
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Front engine to chassis = 80nm

http://www.guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/...telier(GB).pdf
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Old 06-22-2013, 03:55 PM   #5602
HotChilliColdBeer
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Might look into this

Quote:
Originally Posted by danketchpel View Post
I tried the CalSci medium windshield last night. Honestly I just didn't see much of an improvement over what I had already. I was bummed to be honest. CalSci offered to either replace it with a taller one or return my $$$ as long as it wasn't damaged. I don't want it any taller for sure.

I decided to send it back and ordered a Laminar Lip to see if that smooths out the flow some more.

The stock screen with the mods I have now is "ok" for me under "most" circumstances (still not great in others) but I found out last weekend it wasn't working for my Wife in the back. I have moved my hand around in the air flow while riding and see that it gets significantly more turbulent the further back from the windscreen you get.

I tried flipping the brackets over last night, this places the windscreen at more of an inclined angle but moves the bottom out even further allowing more air under it. This helped some, it's clear there needs to be much more air flowing under the screen but I think the top of the screen needs to "flip up" more directing more of the flow upward as it comes off the screen. My V-Strom screen has a sharp flip up.

This is the setup that finally worked on the V-Strom using the MadStadd brackets. That's what is really needed on the Stelvio to find the right angle.

With this setup the air flow coming off the screen in the lower position is smooth but it's a bit fierce in velocity, nearly 1.5x the normal velocity at road speed. As I raised the screen the turbulence started to come back. It's not horrible but under certain circumstances it will vibrate my helmet hard enough to blur my vision a bit.

I will try the Laminar Lip on the stock windscreen. They offer a 30 day trial period so I guess there's not too much to loose. I hope this finally gets rid of the helmet vibes. I'm getting tired of trying to find a windshield setup that works for both myself and my passenger.
I put one of these on my Stelvio and it worked WONDERS. Lifesaver at freeway speeds.





Charlie
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:17 PM   #5603
Lomax
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Stelvio on the highest continuous paved road in the US.




Marc
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:29 PM   #5604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadride View Post
You know, of course, that you won't get twenty miles before that ciggy plug starts to vibrate out. I had all sorts of electrical tape wrapped around and over mine to hold it in before I finally did the right thing. Hardwire it.
I took a small screw driver and pulled the internal tension strips in toward the center a bit and it fixed the problem of the plug vibrating out (at least for the moment) -- If it makes you feel any better (or worse) the same thing happened on the stock BMW Powerlet Socket on my F800GS
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:02 PM   #5605
XT Traveler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danketchpel View Post
I got the luggage relocation plates finished up this weekend. I was able to take it on a short run up to Santa Barbara.

I made these plates with 3 holes positions as described earlier. I decided the middle position 2" lower than stock is just about right. I think I'll make all plates with 3 positions just for the added flexibility.

Once I mounted one up for a test fit I liked the natural aluminum look better than the black so I just scotch-brite finished this set. I weighed one and it weighed 2.6 lbs, about what I expected. I think I could trim a bit more off that but not too much without going to a more exotic material. I would revise the large cutout on the next set, but most of the rest would stay the same. I might go back an recut the large opening on these when I have spare time.











My wife is much happier now and it's easier for me to mount with the bags on. I also think it looks "right" with them in this position.

Now if I could only locate some better locks. I asked Twisted about it and they said they didn't have any better ones to offer but had gotten several complaints on these locks. I told the guy they are junk and didn't even compare to the lock on my Givi box, that's the lock quality I expect.


Let us know when you go into "Production" !!!!
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:56 PM   #5606
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Originally Posted by xt traveler View Post
let us know when you go into "production" !!!!
+1
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:05 PM   #5607
danketchpel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XT Traveler View Post
Let us know when you go into "Production" !!!!
Will do. I plan to test them during our Colorado ride and if I don't find any problems I will work out some pricing etc. I have been riding the bike to work with them on for the past week and so far so good.

I would like to study the design a bit to see where I could take out a bit more weight. I think the center opening can be enlarged and possibly another slot in the front area. I want to see how much they flex fully loaded.

We did make a test run to Santa Barbara last weekend with a simulation load and I didn't detect any flexing. I also want to work out some rubber bumpers, possibly using the stock ones plus a couple more to keep them quiet while empty. If the bag to plate clamps are adjusted pretty tight they don't rattle at idle.
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Old 06-23-2013, 04:19 AM   #5608
XT Traveler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danketchpel View Post
Will do. I plan to test them during our Colorado ride and if I don't find any problems I will work out some pricing etc. I have been riding the bike to work with them on for the past week and so far so good.

I would like to study the design a bit to see where I could take out a bit more weight. I think the center opening can be enlarged and possibly another slot in the front area. I want to see how much they flex fully loaded.

We did make a test run to Santa Barbara last weekend with a simulation load and I didn't detect any flexing. I also want to work out some rubber bumpers, possibly using the stock ones plus a couple more to keep them quiet while empty. If the bag to plate clamps are adjusted pretty tight they don't rattle at idle.

Sounds great -- appreciate for all the development work and beta testing !!!
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:44 AM   #5609
stevie88
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To stop the rattling put some thin, dense, self adhesive foam rubber weather stripping on the boxes. That way it doesn't show when they're not on the bike.
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:50 AM   #5610
Lomax
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Very Well executed Dan.

Marc
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