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Old 09-03-2010, 01:07 AM   #1
Gnarly Adventurer
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: South Australia
Oddometer: 245
The Canning Stock Route, Central Western Australia 2010

The start of the "nothing can go wrong tour, this is either gonna be comedy or tragedy - lets hope the latter doesn't prevail

After months of planning and dreaming the big day is finally here . We make a late start andare off towards Bura on the Bitumen.
Nine riders, of ten we lost Mark before the trip started due to a heart attack . Good to see you back on forum mate, hope all is well.

A couple of hours into the ride the strap on my back pack goes. We stop to have a look and find out that Gra's very expensive rain gear has a big rip on the left leg. Bloody hell we have not even hit the dirt yet and we are already fallinapartrt. What was the name of the tour again??

Oh well time for coffee and needle and thread. Good trick from Masterbrewer using the pliers to push the needle through the
heavy fabric.

Believe it or the rain gear damage is not from a crash but from the wind. Not sure about the look, quick release stripper
pants or Stig gone wrong?
Continued on though the dirt east of Bura, bush camp for the night.

We had to bury the rain pants, it was an emotional moment.

Moved on east of the Flinders, great roads, made to Farina for the night where we were to meet GNP59 who was on his
way to a Simpson crossing. We missed him by half an hour and he kept going thinkin we moved on.
He had an eventful trip to say the least here is an extract of his reply.

The Simpsom was eventfull for me;

Camped by myself between Hamilton station and Mt Dare and was visited by some dingoes when the fire died right down. (Still do not Know the correct action to take in this situation)

Couple of decent prangs one just before Dalhousie, pannier racks all bent and twisted and snapped the lower subfame bolt limped back to Mt Dare and did some running repairs.

Second one was on the French line managed to knock myself out, not all bad some 4wders I met at Mt Dare offerd to take my bag.

Travelled with them to the lone gum and accross rig road camped 25 Klm short of Poepell Cnr.

That night while we were sitting around the campfire one of the group sufferd what we think was a massive heart attack and passed away.

Waited until 645 pm the next day for the SA Police to arrive from Port Augusta.

Will be looking for the report.

Made our way through Maree, to Oudnadata hoping to catch up with Aub for a Beer. No Aub got massage from Aub that he had a big off after a dancing with Emus episode and was out of the trip. And then there were eight. At this point He took on the role of mission control and was a great help as trying to keep in touch with the group and in particular Rossco proved very hard. Thank god for the Spot I am going to get one.
We rented a Donga for the night and settled in to wait for Rossco the trip leader.

No sign of Ross despite numerous phone calls waited for an extra day before moving on to Alice. We learned later on he had a pretty hard time with multiple flats, mud, road closures and was forced to divert from Maree down the bitumen to Port Augusta and all the way to Alice on the Stuart Hwy

Uncle Gra extreme repairs.

After two days and no Ross we continued to Finke, Old Ghan Rail Rd. to Alice. Good run heavy corrugations though which was to be the norm for this trip. The rear bearings on the KTM gave up and we nursed the bike into Alice.
We arrived in Alice at the Good day Caravan park. Great people, did not mind us doing a bit of maintenance and only 15$ for the two of us each night camping. Bloody cold at night tough.
Tyres and Oil change bearings for Gra and some spares for me. Stayed there for another two days waiting for the leader.
No Rossco, mission control Aub told us later he was still having fun with flats and was being trailered to Edmunda for some repairs.
Got in touch with Jim his chain broke and bent the selector shaft I think. He came for a visit early in the third day. He was out unfortunately as it would take too long to get things mended.
Then there were 7
Later on I got in touch with Shane and company who were touring the Gib river road prior to meeting us at Halls Creek. Well time for the biggest shock of the trip all four of them had major trouble in the corrugations with their luggage racks and sub frames bots snapping etc. This cant be right we have even gone near the CSR yet and it is total carnage.
Then there were three!!!! After a week + on the road and not having seen any of the others, conspiracy theories started playing up on ones mind. You know mate I said to mission control. I bet this was all one of those weird experiments to see if Tony and Gra are stupid enough to do the CSR. I bet they are all at home watching us by satellitee or something an having a laugh. That is right said Aub I never left home I am just directing all this on the Computer.

Jin came to visit us early in the morning of the third day in Alice.

Jim on the mighty but wounded Transalp.

This fellow biker is a legend He found Jim and took time off from his trip to help him get the bike going and stayed with him. They stayed together and went to visit Uluru before trailering the bikes back home with Jim's car.

Jim left and still no Rossco. Finally got in touch with him. He offered for us to go ahead. No mate haven't you heard we three are the only ones left. I was in the middle of giving him instructions to the park when guess what his bloody phone ran out of charge. Two and a half hours later waiting by the freeway Gra had enough, (he hates being in the cities for too long) and it was decided that I go back and look for him and we would meet up at Timouth road house at the beginning of the Tanami.
Found him on the Stuart Hwy and we made it into Alice stayed the night, got a few spares for him in the morning and headed off.

Have you seen this man???? Ross earlier on the way to Maree.

Caught up with Gra at the Road house and the tree amigos finally set out on the Tanami.

Gra saw this on Rossco's bike at the road house and chain was tightened but it was past its prime and was one of the reasons Ross did not come with us on the CSR.

The Tanami was not the smooth Hwy I remembered heavy crrugations.

What is a day with out a puncture.

Welcome to the bad lands, on of a huge number of burned out vehicles on the Tanami

Ross giving us the FYYFF sign

Rabbit flat road house. Yes it is closing down later on this year. The owner is a real colorful outback character and he and his service will be missed by the Motorcycle and 4wd community. We had a very late bush camp aftet this chasing a mythical bush camp.

Who do you meet at the Tanami? well Andy Straps on his 10 deserts tour. Love this guys products I had 6 of his straps and Gra had the bags and straps on this trip.

Some fuel at Billiluna and at this point we must have confused every one with the spot, heading the wrong direction up the CSR
Off to camp at Wolf Creek, What movie?????

Yep that chain was stretching.

Wolf Creek crater

Some one had camp spot set up with fire wood in the middle of the crater. Too to drag the tent.

Corrugations continue to test our loads and no that is not a full Jerry on Gra's bike.

Halls Creek Some supplies and

off to a very idyllic camp on the dirt road to China Wall NE of the town. Great Place. We stayed here while Rossco was trying to get things organized for his bike. The problems were chain and sprockets and bash plate mounts needed welding. His tyres and spare tubes were already at Halls Creek courtesy of Shane.
On the morning of the next day I went into town with Ross and we got the bad news that at best his spares would take a couple of days probably more and Ross made the decision that the bike would not be ready for the CSR with out replacing the chain and sprockets at least. A decision was made for me a Gra to continue on and he would try to get the bike ready and meet us half way or at Willuna. (or as Ross was threatening to publish, we took his spot used his bike for spares and left him in the middle of nowhere.)

Well the real trip is starting. Now we are in for it.

We mainly followed the route on the TJM Canning Stock Route publication from The Outback Travellers guide. a great little book, heaps of pics, fitted very well into the map case and had a great amount of detail in 100 or so Klm sections. Highly recommended, a good map is also a must.
It came in very handy at times as Navigation can get confusing. My mate Uncle Chris, one more that did not make it sent it to me
and visited most of the wells sights. Thanks mate.

Made quick 200ks progress though mainly good open roads (yes corrugated, it is a given on this trip) to Billiluna quick refuel 55L of fuel and 12L of water, and we are off, shit the bike feels heavy. Asked about permits and received a $10 one for the two of us for the immediate lands, they were not sure what permits were needed further down and advised us to check at Kunawarritji.
Some heavy mud on the road but thankfully many bypasses cut through. I had to stop and drop the highway pressures as I was sliding all over the place. Shortly after Billiluna the road closed in to the sandy two wheel ruts that would be the norm for much of the trip and so did the vegetation and termite mounds. All well I started riding on the pegs trying to keep the bike at 40Kph second gear through the meandering track ignoring the slappy sticks. This did not last long.

The CSR asserted it self early on with me. This is the sight of the first and only major crash of the trip for me.
A stick hit me hard on the left bark buster and the bike veered to the left. I overcompensated pulling too hard to the right and the bike climbed out of the rut at speed a quick tank slapper was brought under control but I just missed a termite nest on the right which unbalanced me again and the bike launched off road into the left, hit another termite nest hiding in the spinefex (thankfully a small one) and was launched into the air and over the handle bars, landing hard on my right shoulder and chest and helmet.
I was looking at the sand through my visor which was scratched to buggery thinking well this is the end of this trip. Will have something to talk over with Aub. I got up ribs and sternum feel bruised, hurts to cough but unbelievably I am OK the bike is still running and it seems a broken light shroud, a bent Vapor speedo mounting and bent key were the only damage.
Very sobering indeed but lucky too hitting one of the termite mounds with your leg can lead to a compound fracture or dead bike or both. I lost my nerve after this and spent most of the trip sitting down and even hitting first gear when I saw somethin I was not sure of. All very good practice I can now get out of tank slapper sitting down.
No problem for Gra he did most of it stanidng in second gear but he had many close calls himself speering into the bush. In the end caution and luck plays a part.

Continued on to a lone desert oak where we camped for the night next day the terrain changed all the time.

What camel, all I can focus on at this stage is those pesky termite mounds.

Breaden Pool just past Well 49 well worth a visit, freezing refreshing water, the highlight of the day.

It was a hard day the vegetation gave us a hard time. it looks Innocent but it hides termite mounds inches from the track that are more then capable of being a showstopper. At times I thought shit I am going to do 2000Ks if first gear but we soon got the hang of it idling through in second mostly. The sand is not hard in it self if you are used to it but the constant concentration need to keep out of trouble is exhausting. Slappy sticks got my respect.

Will never get over how green it was but the terrain changes all the time. This section here was dry as with very soft sand and even a sand storm thrown in for good measure, the up side no slappy sticks or grabbing trees, yes.

No he is not dead but numerous off were taking their toll on both of us

Well 46 Kuduarra restored

Most of the dunes were easy but some catch you out, soft sand and 45 degree approach, it seems they are designed to bleed off all your speed you loose momentum and paddle for your life. Thank goodness Shane suggested we go south. Unlike the Simpson where east or west fine 4wd with trailers and high pressures have dug monster whoops as we were told, making things even more fun. Most traffic was headed north.

I had it a bit easier riding in the front but both of us had many small offs towards the end of the day Gra had 3 offs in a very short space of time. Too tired to concentrate as he said later. The last one being a big one and doing in the right pannier mount. He called it a day at the camp below and I reversed three dunes north. Sure enough monster whoops, loose sand had to hit them at speed, not much room for caution with the vegetation or control on a fully loaded bike. Would not like to ride like that all day. South is the go.
I should have known better but I did not put a plate under the side stand overnight. The next day while refelling I had a Russel Coight moment and the side stand sank in the sand tipping the bike over with the fuel cap off and gushing what looked to me like 300L of precious petrol all over the sand. I think I lost about 5L, not a good look

Lake Guli provided some 3rd and 4th gear moments After well 44 was a 20k straight section of dune after dune no bends, vegetation not too bad just a hoot.

The tree got a bit too close and the bike pinned my foot with the pannier, trying to get out of it I nearly barbecued my right leg on the exhaust so Gra to the rescue, but after the pic (No Masterbrewer he did not run around yelling "show me pain" and taking 20 pics)
on a serious note hard panniers might be a problem in this kind of terrain but that is only my opinion.

Well 41 we were running low on water. It shows good drinkable water on the notes but it was like beer. I used an my filter and came up a bit better like weak tea and did not taste very good. Will try a different filter next time.

More dunes

5th gear.

A very healthy and timid dingo at well 39. They were around some camps did not give any trouble at night with our gear even though they came very close to the tents, unlike the ones in the Simpson that stole and scattered everything.

Well 38 Bone dry

We reached the motorbike frame near well 38. Gra tired, if you look closely you can see a tear.

Rock art cave on the way to well 37 here we met Ben a lone 4wd. He had not seen another car in days and had a couple of scary navigation moments He seemed quite happy to see us. We camped for the night and exchanged stories. Tales of caution re dunes with double crests and wind blown tops proved accurate further on, not too bad on the bikes.

What a sight cresting a dune and seing a desert oak forrest, great camp areas.

Gave Gra my Swiss army knife to get his rego sticker that was about to fall off. Careful mate it is sharp (famous last words)

Great water opposite well 33 ruins shower time !!!!! God knows we need it. Kunawarritji just around the corner.

Extreme opposite modes of transport.

Aren't you going to wash that blood off mate??
No it is a good conversation piece, we are ADV riders, we bleed for our sport.
As you can see the finger still works.

We decided to stay an extra day and do some repairs. As the rack was being welded the left side cracked. The well was rough but it held well for the rest of the trip despite another major off that bent the right one again. The proprietors were great and helped us allot with the bike. The community is very friendly and the store is very well stocked with food, Too much choice for us wide eyed desert dwellers.

No Rossco, called mission control Aub, told me about the beer.

Well rested we made our way for the beer

At this point I had a healthy respect for the slappy sticks and though I knew how to handle them I slowed down but if I though the bark buster was up to going through them I continued on. Wrong I saw what I though was a sapling sticking vertically out of the bushes and though yep no worries, next second I was spread eagle in the middle of the track. What the hell was that???? behind me was a couple of hundred kilos of tree that had fallen down previously leaving one slender root as bait to catch me out. I had spun it into the road.

Well 26 ruins

Lots of dunes later we are here. No beer Sorry pRICK mate I got the instructions wrong, I though they were 100 m up from well 23 towards the dump. I should have got the GPS reading. Either way we appreciate your effort it spurred us on and gave us something to look forward to. Will find it next trip.

All fueled up (noooooo!! heavy bikes again) Georgia bore for the night, great spot, sweet water with a pump.

Canoe guy according to Gra

Very soft sand lead us to lake disappointment. Some top camping spots, overlooking the lake.

Savory creek not a good place to drop the bike.

The weather is closing in on us (Gra I have not seen a dry desert yet is true to his word )and we have quite a few lakes and salt pans to cross yet. You would think that a some rain would make the dunes easier but on the first day it just seemed to fluff up the top and stick to our tyres. the dunes were more boggy then ever and we had a hard time on a few.

Bogged again.

Just after well 19


Long day in the saddle made it to Durba Hills just on sun down. A superb camp ground. The guys in the Nissan came over and talked to us. They also ride bikes and are thinking of doing it on bikes also. Good company and beer!!!!! but Gra went to bed early and was too tired to come out of the tent for a beer It rained lightly all night.

We were visited by Tim Ranger and now we have the information straight from the source the 4wd Council permit is the proper one. He appreciated the fact that it was confusing and that we tried to get the permits at the settlements and did not give us a hard time. We just bought the permits on line when we got out.

A very rocky track on the way out lead to well 17 there is a mineral spring there and rock art. Worth having a look but the water has a taste to it.

The boys from last night know how to drive and smoothed out road for us instead of chopping it up we kept meeting them along the way.

Here is a pic of their very well set up rig.

Calvert Ranges closed.

The rain overnight finally did its magic making the dunes a piece of cake unlike the previous day

Muray Rankin's trolley. As someone said on the long way down don't you feel like a wuss just taking it easy on the bike.

Did not see the bus

Light rain all day the mud took its toll neither me or Gra are particularly natural riding through it. Gra had on particularly nasty close call and we decided to have a rest.

A 4wd came though the puddle above at what can only be described as rally speed soon after a second one came through sideways with the accelerator flat to the floor making me look for a quick exit as the bikes looked like becoming a huge pinniada. Gra was less then impressed and yelled at them to slow the f@*k down. It was two 4wds full of Russians on some kind of record attempt to cross Australia doing all the bit 4x4 trips including The Cape and CSR in four weeks . Vladimir a very politeEnglishh speaking Russian told me the driver was the top ranking Russian rally driver. Gra was not happy and all you had to do for the rest of the trip to set him off was mention the Russians . We did not park near skid pans after that.

Even this late in the trip moments on inattention can cost you. big strike to the left pannier did not through me of the bike but that was just luck.

Yep mud, not style from me there just feet out throttle just over idle

Camp South of lake Aerodrome. Rain is getting heavier, not much cover used some fuel to start a fire and stayed in the tents most of the time.

Our letter box

Gra could not sleep and just before 3AM I woke up to a fire that was X raying me straight through the tent. He was drying things out.

Did not get out of the tents much that night.

I know the CSR looks sandy but the corrugations are everywhere

More mud but we are getting the hang of it some close calls but no wipe outs, got to be happy with that.

Towards the south end the signs are good unlike the rest of the CSR. We pushed on thinking it would be like the beginning Halls Creek to Billiluna, nice wide farm service roads. Not so, it was the most technical riding of the trip with rocks, some sand steep rocky entry and exits on dry river crossings great fun. I was half asleep through most of it though and kept veering off into the bush towards the end.

Sign post opposite well 9

More traps

No real damage, did not realize it until I looked down and saw the branch sticking out of the Dryrider. One strike earlier damaged
Gra's goggles.

Great camp but we have our sights on Wiluna and Beeeerrrr!!!!

Last 40Ks smooth road into town, shit we made it.Fuel used from fuel dump to Wiluna 36L for about 750Ks incredible Gra did even better 34 L I think and that included some pretty soft sand. Love these bikes.
Well as Gra said if we can do it anybody can.

Looks closed from the outside but it is a friendly place Ben the new proprietor and staff could not do enough for us even letting us make free calls as there seems not to be a working pay phone it town. We stayed for two days had a look over the bikes. Rooms were very reasonable at $85 a night for a 4 bed room.
We were made to feel very welcome Thanks Ben (sorry pic did not come out)

First things first

Then we meet the regulars

Well that is end of the real Adventure for me. Back thourh the great Central Hwy an amazing dirt road that rivals the best bitumen roads (made up for all the corrugations earlier). we are off to Uluru.
We were thinking of going through the Simpson but we ran out of time. My rear heavy duty tube (old I should have replaced it) fell appart and was out of sapre tubes, can't believe how hard it is to find even simple parts for bikes in WA, even in big places like Laverton.
Add to that the chain guide which was damaged from an earlier rock strike giving up the ghost I decided to transport home.

Arrived a bit late for fuel at one of the road houses (Closing early for weekend and my flat did not help). Would not open even for a late fee. Met these great bunch of blokes Pete and his crew from Kalgoorlie going up to Alice for the Military vehicle get together. As luck would have it they were bringing the fuel for a Jeep and had a full 44G drum on the back. So we were invited to camp with them. Good company good beer and fuel!!!!!

Yes flats all around that day.

Just beautiful,can you believe this road. Aub this is what we want in SA.

End of the road Bitumen to Uluru 10m ahead

Gra going through.
As luck would have it I scored a flat on the spot 10m from the bitumen!!!! it was a nicked tube I had replaced earlier. So I was a bit late into the resort. I found Gra the next day handed over the spot and we split up he through Udna and me down the bitumen for a just over a day bullet run to Adelaide.

Not sure about this one or the dead body. Gra did it!!!!

Well that is it from me hope you enjoyed it our little adventure. Hope to give it another go with all 10 of us next time.
I am away for a month. When I come back I will put up some bits and pieces about equipment, what worked what did not and hopefully the rest of the crew will put up some pics of their travels from this trip.

More pics from the trip at

Thinking of a trip to the top of the Cape for next OCR. Any one interested???

Cheers Tony and Gra
Riding keeps me sane, but only just.

TonyRDR screwed with this post 09-05-2010 at 01:44 AM
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Old 09-03-2010, 02:49 AM   #2
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Fantastic pix - Epic - Thanks for sharing.
7th Day Adventourist.
I have learnt a lot from my mistakes. I am heading out to make a few more.
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:04 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by davorallyfan
Fantastic pix - Epic - Thanks for sharing.
Not there yet just figuring out how to use this thing I will be putting up the story and getting the pics in order soon.
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:19 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by TonyRDR
Not there yet just figuring out how to use this thing I will be putting up the story and getting the pics in order soon.
Yep looking forward to it. If the words can be half as good as the pics it'llbe a rip roaring ride report.
Maybe splitting the 1 post into smaller posts with words & pics together may make it easier to keep it all together in your head - if that makes sense.

Can you or someone post up a map thing of where the CSR is? It's onthe bucket list.

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Old 09-03-2010, 07:24 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Padmei
Yep looking forward to it. If the words can be half as good as the pics it'llbe a rip roaring ride report.
Maybe splitting the 1 post into smaller posts with words & pics together may make it easier to keep it all together in your head - if that makes sense.

Can you or someone post up a map thing of where the CSR is? It's onthe bucket list.

Sorted out the pics but I am too old to remember to keep it all together in my head and Gra is not much better. Will give the story a shot soon.
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:22 AM   #6
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Looking good
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:03 PM   #7
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PICs deleted? or just too many in one post for the wobblynet to handle?

I've been patiently watching, watching. and now, almost no pics.
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:43 PM   #8
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great pics tony & gra ,cant wait for the story behind them.
As scray said pics deleted this morning????
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:01 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ozbikedude
great pics tony & gra .................... said pics deleted this morning????
He's got it all under control, really .................... just remember ..................... is the "nothing can go wrong tour, this is either gonna be comedy or tragedy - "

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Old 09-03-2010, 05:32 PM   #10
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Pics gone????

Originally Posted by ozbikedude
great pics tony & gra ,cant wait for the story behind them.
As scray said pics deleted this morning????

Not sure what went wrong.(Yes I know what can go wrong) We uploaded the pics with Masterbrewer and I used cut and paste on ADV to put them in order. It took ages looking over the maps etc and it looked fine when I saved it late last night. Before I started the first pic went off screen for no reason and I fixed that So there might be some problem with Photobucket, not sure.
Just checked with Photobucket pics still there and nothing seems to have changed so I am not sure what is causing this.
Sorry guys was going to put the story up today. But I am going overseas in a couple of days and have run out of time and have to get myselforganizedd so it will have to wait until I get back next month and try uploading them in order individually.
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:12 PM   #11
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Tony and I had waited for 2 days for Rossco at Alice Springs but no show. I was beginning to think he wasn't a real person. So I took off to Tilmouth Well on the Tanami Rd as I had enough of Alice all ready....Tony would wait there for him to show up.

I pitched camp at Tilmouth and Rossco and Tony turned up next morning....we hadnt met before...this I looked at his 690 and noticed this...
.. I fixt way....gjr

Done good...Played strong... J.G.

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Old 09-03-2010, 08:29 PM   #12
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Pics are back

Thank you Mr Masterbrewer.

Will get on with the Story.
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:13 AM   #13
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Can't wait to catch up with you both and get the real story. Start thinking about the Flinders in April next year guys, same place. Well done..
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Old 09-04-2010, 01:20 AM   #14
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FarRider #332.
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Old 09-04-2010, 03:22 AM   #15
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Great photos, looks like an epic trip!

I was trying to put photos into an RR last night too and it wouldnt work. Did you find out the problem?
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